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Old 10-19-2014, 06:06 PM   #21
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Thank you all for sharing your experiences.
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Old 10-19-2014, 11:45 PM   #22
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Did not post this earlier.... but will relay it...

I had an 85 Cougar.... over the years it would just stall when I was coming to a stop if it was hot outside... and it is almost always hot where I live... I took it into the dealership many times... they could not reproduce the problem, but would do various electrical jobs and some mechanical....

Now, this car would eat batteries for breakfast, lunch and dinner... I had the car for about 10 years and know that I put in more than 20 batteries... but this was not the cause of the stalling...

I used to feel when it was going to stall and would put it in neutral and rev the engine up a bit.... then at times would not even put it in neutral....

Only once did the problem occur when they were driving the car... and the guy got stuck away from the dealer and had the car towed... 'fixed' the problem.... (NOT)....


SOOOO, after 10 years of paying money to try and fix something... needing a new transmission because I put to much pressure on it when I was keeping the revs up... Ford loses a case... they KNEW what was happening but never did a recall.... they just kept it quiet... did not even tell the dealerships... I got a $500 credit for the purchase of a new Ford... REALLY


Over the years probably spent close to $5,000 'fixing' the problem that was never fixed.... one of the reasons I will never buy another Ford....
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Old 10-20-2014, 08:08 AM   #23
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AFIK Ford has had Ignition switch problems for a very long time, many decades. Recent years GM had their fair share as well.

DW had a small metal loop mailed to her for her CTS, another ignition switch problem, the purpose of the small ring is to hopefully minimize the number of keys hanging off the ignition key while driving. A heavy lump pf keys can bugger up the switch, and move it to the accessory position unexpectedly, killing ignition and disabling the airbag along with the "big brother" telltale recorder under the seat.

Hmmm, maybe the OPs problem is intermittent ignition switch.

Do a search for GM ignition switch woes.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:22 AM   #24
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I've never heard of a vehicle "stalling/turning off" because of a bad battery. Once your vehicle is started and running the alternator is supplying the electrical power. It's possible you did need need a battery, but IMO that's not what caused this particular problem. Any updates?

Mike
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Old 10-20-2014, 02:27 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ls99 View Post
AFIK Ford has had Ignition switch problems for a very long time, many decades. Recent years GM had their fair share as well.

DW had a small metal loop mailed to her for her CTS, another ignition switch problem, the purpose of the small ring is to hopefully minimize the number of keys hanging off the ignition key while driving. A heavy lump pf keys can bugger up the switch, and move it to the accessory position unexpectedly, killing ignition and disabling the airbag along with the "big brother" telltale recorder under the seat.

Hmmm, maybe the OPs problem is intermittent ignition switch.

Do a search for GM ignition switch woes.

ls99 you very well may be right...I have seen this discussed in a couple of GM forum posts. I am going to mention it too them when I pick the truck up and see what they say.

My intention is to take the truck and drive it to see if it happens again before having any more work done to it. Will update this thread when I have a better sense what is going on.
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:10 PM   #26
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It cannot hurt to put this in writing and send a letter to the dealer (find the owner of the dealership, not the service manager) as well as GM Corporate customer service. Written complaints tend to get more attention than verbal ones. If you are social network savvy you might also tweet your experience. Sometimes making a little polite noise might get a partial refund or a discount for the future.
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:16 PM   #27
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Update and resolution: The bill for the second visit that resulted in the battery being changed was $150. The truck has been running fine for a month so it seems that the issue was the battery. Went to talk with the service manager at the dealer last week. Explained that I thought the original diagnosis was not a thoughtful diagnosis and resulted in unnecessary work. Service manager still took position that battery dieing 2 weeks later was random and unrelated...but he did listen to me...asked what I was looking for. I identified approx $600 parts and labor that I thought they should not have done. He was willing to refund $480 in labor that was on the bill but did not want to refund the parts because they were "on the vehicle". I thought his offer was close enough and decided to take it, declare myself satisfied, and move on.

Thanks to all of you for sharing your experiences.
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:22 PM   #28
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Congratulations. You are $480 ahead of where the majority of us would have ended up.
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