Join Early Retirement Today
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
2003 CRV EX rear brake issue - caliper or brake line?
Old 03-08-2011, 12:08 PM   #1
Full time employment: Posting here.
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 910
2003 CRV EX rear brake issue - caliper or brake line?

I'm have 28k miles on my car and 2nd brake pad replacement on the rear pads. 1st replacement changed the both rear rotors (power brakes) because they got scored pretty good and Pep Boys refused to cut them at 12-14k miles, so I switched to ceramic pads. This car wears outside pads more than inside, where the indicator is, so I get no warning of pad failure at all. Now rear left is worn all the way down (caught it last night), but the rear rights are still 50+% life left on them. Wear is almost even inside/outside on both sides of the car. I changed out the rear left pads only. Obviously, I have either a caliper issue or a brake line problem. I have extra sets of ceramic brake pads, since I'm wearing 2 rear lefts to 1 right, I'll only do the one side until I determine what needs changing. Odds are it's probably the caliper. I also bled the brake fluid (to replace the fluid) about 3k miles (1-2 months) ago when I changed the front pads and cut front rotors. Any thoughts?
__________________

__________________
Dimsumkid is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 Early Retirement and Financial Independence Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

Are you planning to be financially independent as early as possible so you can live life on your own terms? Discuss successful investing strategies, asset allocation models, tax strategies and other related topics in our online forum community. Our members range from young folks just starting their journey to financial independence, military retirees and even multimillionaires. No matter where you fit in you'll find that Early-Retirement.org is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with our members, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create a retirement blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 03-08-2011, 02:14 PM   #2
Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso)
Give me a forum ...
travelover's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,981
Does this car have caliper slider pins and if so, do the calipers slide freely?

Had a similar problem on an Explorer and the slider pin was corroded and sticking.
__________________

__________________
Feral Engineer - Idle Dandy
travelover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2011, 02:18 PM   #3
Full time employment: Posting here.
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 910
Quote:
Originally Posted by travelover
Does this car have caliper slider pins and if so, do the calipers slide freely?

Had a similar problem on an Explorer and the slider pin was corroded and sticking.
Not sure if I do or not. I have brackets that hold the pads in place. Is there a way I can tell if I do or not?
__________________
Dimsumkid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2011, 02:32 PM   #4
Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso)
Give me a forum ...
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 8,989
Sounds like a caliper problem to me...

As Travellover mentioned, the caliper is supposed to put pressure on both sides equally... yours seem to be pressing on one side more than the other... I am surprised you have not noticed a braking issue on distance or pressure...

Another possiblity (but still the caliper) is that the pad is not retracting after you let off the brake and continues to wear away that one pad...

I would doubt it would be the lines as most cars only have one line running to a caliper... (heck, I don't know of any that have two, but I am not a mechanic either)...


One last possibility.... is your parking brake adjusted properly This could have one pad touching and the other not if it were to 'tight'.... I would think this would go away after a bit of wear, but who knows for sure...
__________________
Texas Proud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2011, 02:39 PM   #5
Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso)
Give me a forum ...
travelover's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,981
Right, the caliper squeezes onto the disc when you brake, but the caliper itself usually floats side to side on a pin so there is no side loading on the disc. Sometimes the piston in the caliper can corrode and stick, as well.



__________________
Feral Engineer - Idle Dandy
travelover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2011, 02:46 PM   #6
Full time employment: Posting here.
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 910
Quote:
Originally Posted by travelover
Right, the caliper squeezes onto the disc when you brake, but the caliper itself usually floats side to side on a pin so there is no side loading on the disc. Sometimes the piston in the caliper can corrode and stick, as well.


My car has a combination rotor/drum. The emergency brake only uses the drum portion. Are you referring to the pins on the calipers as the sliders? I can check these, those are covered with rubber boots. The brake lines can possibly be clogged was another suggestion I got from my parts supplier, he mentioned this gives similar issues to a sticking caliper. This is my 4th brake job in last 3-4 months (2 cars), getting pretty routine now.
__________________
Dimsumkid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2011, 03:12 PM   #7
Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso)
Give me a forum ...
travelover's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,981
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimsumkid View Post
My car has a combination rotor/drum. The emergency brake only uses the drum portion. Are you referring to the pins on the calipers as the sliders? I can check these, those are covered with rubber boots. The brake lines can possibly be clogged was another suggestion I got from my parts supplier, he mentioned this gives similar issues to a sticking caliper. This is my 4th brake job in last 3-4 months (2 cars), getting pretty routine now.
The pins run side to side and are what keeps the caliber from rotating with the disc when the brakes are applied. They may be inside a rubber boot on your car. I guess the line could be clogged, but seems unlikely. You could remove the fittings and blow compressed air through the line and rebleed.
__________________
Feral Engineer - Idle Dandy
travelover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2011, 03:38 PM   #8
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
ls99's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 3,582
Ditto on caliper problem. In addition to the slide pins sticking, the piston may have rust on the side facing the pad. If so, it will allow application of force, but the rust will prevent the piston retraction, thus the brake pad remains applied, dragging and wearing.

Should have effected the MPG noticeably.

In any case you are in the market for a new caliper. Shops being in the business of making money will try and sell you both sides.

Good luck.
__________________
There must be moderation in everything, including moderation.
ls99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2011, 03:38 PM   #9
Full time employment: Posting here.
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 910
The pins on my calipers are the same bolts to tighten the pads back onto the rotor. The female part of the pin is covered by a boot. I don't believe these are corroded, so my guess is the caliper is faulty. I'll have to check it tonight or tomorrow. A rebuild kit costs around $20, but a rebuilt caliper costs $60. I was told the rebuild kit may end up failing too. My parts guy recommended a rebuilt caliper instead, it comes with a lifetime warranty. Never had a caliper go bad on me before, might've been faulty when it was new since it only lasted me 12-14k miles on that 1st pad/rotor change. I read a faulty installation of the caliper can cause this problem too.
__________________
Dimsumkid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2011, 07:31 PM   #10
Moderator
M Paquette's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,171
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimsumkid View Post
The pins on my calipers are the same bolts to tighten the pads back onto the rotor. The female part of the pin is covered by a boot. I don't believe these are corroded, so my guess is the caliper is faulty. I'll have to check it tonight or tomorrow. A rebuild kit costs around $20, but a rebuilt caliper costs $60. I was told the rebuild kit may end up failing too. My parts guy recommended a rebuilt caliper instead, it comes with a lifetime warranty. Never had a caliper go bad on me before, might've been faulty when it was new since it only lasted me 12-14k miles on that 1st pad/rotor change. I read a faulty installation of the caliper can cause this problem too.
Get the rebuilt caliper. You'll save some worry and grief for yourself. The kits work best for leaking cylinders that are functioning mechanically.

If the caliper is sticking, one cause could be corrosion on the caliper piston and/or cylinder. This may necessitate honing the caliper cylinder or piston and possibly using an oversize square cut seal (the seal the piston slides over in the cylinder. The cylinder can be honed using a drill press and whipping up a simple cradle to hold the caliper. The piston is best honed using a small machinist's lathe and honing stone. I'm not a fan of using a hand drill and flex-hone when trying to correct corrosion pitting.

(Yeah, former owner of too many little British sports cars...)
__________________
"Once again, the conservative, sandwich-heavy portfolio pays off for the hungry investor." - Dr. Zoidberg
M Paquette is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 09:33 AM   #11
Recycles dryer sheets
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 184
Difficult to say what may be the problem since rear disc brakes also act as parking brake and are more complicated than the front ones. I had similar problem in one of my cars, sticking caliper, one pad was worn so much that there was metal to metal contact, I don't remember details now, most probably disc and pad were changed and caliper was just lubricated. Rear disk should last more front brake unless someone drove with parking brake on.

Here is a diagram, CRV may be similar: 1997 BMW E30 E28 E34 Rear Disc Brake Caliper Components and Parts Diagram | Assembly | Car Parts Diagram
You can also get more information in CR-V Owners Club | Honda CR-V Owners Club - Home,
__________________
landover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 11:02 AM   #12
Full time employment: Posting here.
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 910
Quote:
Originally Posted by landover View Post
Difficult to say what may be the problem since rear disc brakes also act as parking brake and are more complicated than the front ones. I had similar problem in one of my cars, sticking caliper, one pad was worn so much that there was metal to metal contact, I don't remember details now, most probably disc and pad were changed and caliper was just lubricated. Rear disk should last more front brake unless someone drove with parking brake on.

Here is a diagram, CRV may be similar: 1997 BMW E30 E28 E34 Rear Disc Brake Caliper Components and Parts Diagram | Assembly | Car Parts Diagram
You can also get more information in CR-V Owners Club | Honda CR-V Owners Club - Home,
I mentioned in an earlier post that the rear on mine is a combo brake pad/ rotor and emergency brake/shoe desgin. So the parking brake doesn't interact with the pad/rotor side of braking at all. Weather has been terrible today, raining, cold and supposed to snow later. I don't want to tear it apart to look at it again since I changed out the brake pads and it's not a huge problem. Also, I haven't noticed much in loss of mileage at all, since it's an AWD model, it's expected to be less than the front wheel version. I'm wondering if it's been faulty when I bought it. The only time I notice it is when I'm coasting in neutral (it's an automatic), then I notice slightly faster decrease from drag compared to my old Camry. How else can you test a faulty caliper other than a ft/lb pressure test in resistance? Or maybe put the back end up on jack stands and compare wheel drag resistance by spinning each wheel by hand?
__________________
Dimsumkid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 02:10 PM   #13
Full time employment: Posting here.
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 910
It stopped raining, so I decided to take it apart, checked the sliding pins, had a good amount of lube, but added more. Checked the sliding, all is fine on both pins. no rust on the piston. Put the back on jacks to free spin, maybe 10-20% more resistance on left side. I didn't see any kinks in my brake lines anywhere. My guess is it's probably the piston itself. I even checked the rotor by touch last night when I got home and it wasn't burning hot either. So the drag isn't overly noticeable, only on pad wear and my mileage has normal too. I'm wondering if you can relube the piston itself since I have a rubber boot on that too or is this the point you just get a rebuilt caliper?
__________________
Dimsumkid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 02:34 PM   #14
Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso)
Give me a forum ...
travelover's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,981
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimsumkid View Post
........... I'm wondering if you can relube the piston itself since I have a rubber boot on that too or is this the point you just get a rebuilt caliper?
Dunno. Without a real root cause determination, you risk burning up the rotors again. At such low mileage, I suspect something is wrong with one of the original parts. Maybe time to check brake hoses and or lines for obstruction?

Edit: Just realized the car is 8 years old - corrosion seems more likely, especially when car sits for long periods without being driven.
__________________
Feral Engineer - Idle Dandy
travelover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 02:47 PM   #15
Full time employment: Posting here.
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 910
Quote:
Originally Posted by travelover View Post
Dunno. Without a real root cause determination, you risk burning up the rotors again. At such low mileage, I suspect something is wrong with one of the original parts. Maybe time to check brake hoses and or lines for obstruction?

Edit: Just realized the car is 8 years old - corrosion seems more likely, especially when car sits for long periods without being driven.
Yea, this was our secondary car before we sold the primary car in Dec.
Averaged 3k mi/yr. I had called Honda about the backs wearing out faster than the fronts, they said it's normal on CRV's, so they weren't surprised at all. Fortunately replacement parts are cheap, got the ceramics for $6 each when Monroe ran $20 rebates on them, and rotors were like $15. So the brake parts won't cost me a lot. Just glad I caught this one before they tore into the rotors as the wear indicators don't get activated the way the wear patterns go. I'm gonna check this again in another couple of weeks to see if the additional grease on the slider pins made any difference.
__________________

__________________
Dimsumkid is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
In-Line Etiquette: Opening a new checkout line Amethyst Other topics 44 11-12-2010 06:42 PM
Windshield washer fluid in brake fluid reservoir KB Other topics 17 07-30-2009 05:47 PM
Patato, Patatoe, Gimme a Brake CuppaJoe Other topics 39 05-05-2008 12:51 PM
Wireless Rear Channel Speakers paradiseken Other topics 12 11-26-2006 04:19 AM

 

 
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:55 AM.
 
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

Early Retirement News right to your Email!

Stay up-to-date with all the latest news to your inbox!

unsusbcribe at anytime with one click

Close [X]