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Old 08-15-2008, 07:14 PM   #21
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So how do I get my 3 yr old top loader(Sears) to croak so I can agonize over a front loader?
Do what everyone else does-- put it on Craigslist for $125 and explain that you're selling because you're redecorating...
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Old 08-15-2008, 10:28 PM   #22
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Is99 - outstanding way to destroy something - reminds me of Dave Lettermen with the little boys grinning and saying "we're gonna blow stuff up - right?"

Thanks for the laugh!
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Old 08-16-2008, 01:09 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by bigwonderfulwyoming View Post
Mosts of the posts seem to be focused on how to get around a faulty switch. If you are going to go to all the trouble to hotwire it, why not just replace it? It can't be more than $20 and a lot better solution than exposed wires, a wad of tape or a board wedged into the switch...and a lot safer in the long run.
Where's the fun in that? The alternatives at least offer some hope of thrills & excitement......but simply replacing a faulty part is BORING!

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Old 08-16-2008, 07:52 AM   #24
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That's a pretty new machine to be replacing, I must say.
Apparently laundry gear is one of those things that "They don't make 'em like they used to".

We bought a Kenmore washer & gas dryer in 2002. Eighteen months later the dryer died from a bad circuit board that cost half the price of a new dryer so I junked the old one and bought a new Maytag. So far the Maytag has held up but I hear even those aren't made as well as they used to be.

Evidently appliances are to be considered disposable unless you can fix it yourself.
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Old 08-16-2008, 08:47 AM   #25
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I have a set of Hotpoint laundry appliances that are 12yo and counting.

Knock on wood...

When they die, I'll probably go front-loader on the washer, but I don't want the laundromat-sized units. I prefer relatively small loads, mostly because a large drier load usually results in wrinkled shirts. I want my Grateful Dead t-shirt to look crisp and clean...
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Old 08-16-2008, 09:14 AM   #26
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If you by pass the switch and it starts working, replace the switch. If not, then why not call a service tech out? Could be a faulty timer, motor, maybe no power at the outlet. Does it do anything? Fill with water, spin, dance the hoochi coo?
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Old 08-16-2008, 07:44 PM   #27
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If you by pass the switch and it starts working, replace the switch. If not, then why not call a service tech out? Could be a faulty timer, motor, maybe no power at the outlet. Does it do anything? Fill with water, spin, dance the hoochi coo?
Pulled out knob, washer filled, did not click on to agitate.

Pried open top.

Supposed to happen: Close lid, piece on lid depresses switch which creates contact between metal tab and little box which attaches to motor.

Problem: little box was no longer attached to washer frame because of rust.

Solution: Use tape to cause permanent contact between metal tab and little box.

Crude, but effective.

Result: washing/spinning does not stop when lid is lifted.
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Old 08-16-2008, 08:31 PM   #28
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Did you use duct tape? It's not an official fix without duct tape.
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Old 08-16-2008, 08:32 PM   #29
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Little known fact: duct tape is absolutely one of the worst tapes to use on ducts.
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Old 08-16-2008, 08:37 PM   #30
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Ha! another little known fact
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Old 08-16-2008, 09:00 PM   #31
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Years ago I got some duct tape from work that was usually really good stuff, but for some reason the roll I got wouldn't stick worth a hoot. Then one day we got an email that said there was some bad duct tape circulating around the labs and it would be replaced if you brought it back to the storeroom.

Imagine, a recall on duct tape.
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Old 08-17-2008, 01:44 AM   #32
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Where's the fun in that? The alternatives at least offer some hope of thrills & excitement......but simply replacing a faulty part is BORING!

I have had enough thrills and excitement (and blisters, contusions, fractures, burns, stitches, and scars ) in my home improvement lifetime to cut corners on a washing machine repair. Granted, I would hotwire it to make sure it was a bad switch, but would replace the switch at my first opportunity, hopefully within the same calendar year...
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Old 08-17-2008, 03:08 AM   #33
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Problem: little box was no longer attached to washer frame because of rust.

Solution: Use tape to cause permanent contact between metal tab and little box.

Maybe a bit of epoxy is better to keep the safety interlock functional?


It so happens that I also fixed my dryer earlier today.

Among the first appliances that we bought when we got married 28 years ago were a pair of Kenmore washer/dryer.

I fixed the washer once about 5 years ago. It was a worn-out belt that drove the pump. Last month, another mechanical problem developed. The motor ran, but nothing happened. Water pumping, but no agitating, no spinning. When I turned it over to look, some rusty parts fell out of the bottom. I decided to let it go.

Went to a Sears outlet that sold discontinued models. Brought home another Kenmore after paying less than $300 (tax included, about the same as we paid 28 years ago). If it lasts as long as its older brother, we may not outlive it.

The dryer still runs. Had to replace the belt once, about 3 years ago. Quit again last week. Motor not running. Today, I looked in the back, found problem immediately. There was a connector block, where the power cord wires made electrical contact with the internal wiring. Crimp terminals were used on all wire ends. Crimp connections developed high resistance after nearly 3 decades, burned to a crisp. One wire end even melted! That's how it stopped working.

Solution: Discarded terminal block. Cut away all crimp terminals, twisted and soldered all connections. Put double layer of heat shrink tubes over connections. Will see if it lasts another decade.

Do they still make them like they used to? Dunno, since we are still on our 1st dryer, and just started our 2nd washer.
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Old 08-17-2008, 08:30 AM   #34
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I am at the point of possible getting a new washer and dryer... both over 20 years old...

Washer needed a new belt about 8 to 10 years ago... and sound like it needs a new one now... the knob broke off who knows when... super glue worked just fine... BUT, it has decided to do another wash on it's own!!! It will stop, we transfer the clothes to the dryer.... and then later... "Honey, what are you washing now?"... NOTHING!! Well, then why is the washer going Can not figure this out as it just started this last week...


Dryer stopped working once in the first five years... called a tech and something was wrong with the flame (gas dryer).... he replaced a part... now squeaking like crazy.... guess I will take a look at it soon... but since we are looking at moving... I think I will buy a new set for the new house... like I did for this house...
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Old 08-17-2008, 08:49 AM   #35
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Did you use duct tape? It's not an official fix without duct tape.
Duct tape and tundra, emergency escape aids:

In my Aleutian escapades, flew around in a supercub (that's a little kite of a taildragger airplane for those not into aviation), landing on beaches hilltops etc. The pilot was an old bush pilot everyone called the cowboy.

So he lands us on this rocky beach, promptly blows one of the big balloon tires, the rough landing sends a bunch of rocks through the horizontal stabilizer, poking big holes.

After I got my my work done, we proceeded to stuff the tire full of tundra (damn the naturalists, we had to get out of there), from my trusty kit pulled out the duct tape, patched up the holes in the horizontal stabilizer (that's the little rear wing, for non-aviators), wrapped the tire so it held the tundra in place.

We took of successfully, made it back to town 90 miles away over open ocean, landed safely with no further damage.

So duct tape can be called 100 mile an hour tape.
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