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05-01-2014, 07:57 AM
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#2
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Recycles dryer sheets
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: League City
Posts: 70
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I agree. The wood looks real dry. I split alot of Oak wood and that wood is dense and hard to split. Don't know how much difference this ax wood make.
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05-01-2014, 08:05 AM
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#3
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Full time employment: Posting here.
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Harrogate, UK
Posts: 921
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Mine is almost all pine. This latest batch from the yard has a lot of the pine beetle in it......it dried with a bit of mold in it (haven't seen wood like this before....wondering if the beetle had something to do with it) and it is a real bugger to split. Need a wedge on almost everything
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05-01-2014, 08:20 AM
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#4
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 11,078
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For $281 I could rent a splitter a long time, for the tough stuff.
MRG
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05-01-2014, 08:31 AM
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#5
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Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,030
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I would just be worried about that side motion jerk as the axe hits the log, seems like a repeat injury waiting to happen.
A good axe however makes a huge difference. I have been eying axes from Gränsfors Bruk, but it is a little hard to justify. But when I get my stove installed, I am sure having a good axe will keep me warm outside (chopping) and inside in front of the stove.
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05-01-2014, 08:37 AM
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#6
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: May 2006
Location: west coast, hi there!
Posts: 8,808
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I bought this splitting axe a few years ago and really like it: Fiskars Axe
It gets 5 stars and there are 1600+ reviews.
I learned to avoid trying to split oak that has certain characteristics like twisted grain or large branch knobs. Saves the back.
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05-01-2014, 08:46 AM
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#7
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gone traveling
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Westcliffe
Posts: 228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lsbcal
I bought this splitting axe a few years ago and really like it: Fiskars Axe
It gets 5 stars and there are 1600+ reviews.
I learned to avoid trying to split oak that has certain characteristics like twisted grain or large branch knobs. Saves the back.
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The Fiskars X27 is by far the splitting axe of choice among the members of hearth.com, a community of wood splitting / burning geeks...Like me
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05-01-2014, 08:50 AM
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#8
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Independence
Posts: 7,280
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That splitter looks horrible. Watching the twisted off center angle of the head as the tool is brought down just makes my wrists hurt.
Oak splits really nicely when green, unlike pine or fir. After oak is dry it's a bugger.
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05-01-2014, 09:31 AM
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#9
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gone traveling
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: DFW
Posts: 7,586
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For those difficult logs, after getting them started, use a wedge and sledge/flat end of axe.
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05-01-2014, 09:34 AM
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#10
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 26,821
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Stupid question - but if you are using a stove (not a fireplace), why even split the wood? From what I've seen of stoves, they get so hot internally they burn everything, I don't think you need that surface area to 'catch' like you do in an open fireplace.
I've read that they split it to help it dry faster. Isn't a whole log pretty dry after a season or two? Unless you don't have the space, why not just keep a rotating supply of 2-3 years worth of logs?
Or just split in half - I'll bet that is the most important with steep diminishing returns for each additional split (which increases exponentially in number of splits, though the effort is somewhat less with each split).
-ERD50
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05-01-2014, 09:37 AM
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#11
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Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Chattanooga
Posts: 3,877
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My axe is a 94 strat.
__________________
Earning money is an action, saving money is a behavior, growing money takes a well diversified portfolio and the discipline to ignore market swings.
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05-01-2014, 09:41 AM
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#12
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Gone but not forgotten
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Peru
Posts: 6,335
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Got this old chopper 1 axe from my dad, a half century ago. Works fine on pine but a joke on oak...
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05-01-2014, 09:46 AM
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#13
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Full time employment: Posting here.
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Harrogate, UK
Posts: 921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERD50
Stupid question - but if you are using a stove (not a fireplace), why even split the wood? From what I've seen of stoves, they get so hot internally they burn everything, I don't think you need that surface area to 'catch' like you do in an open fireplace.
I've read that they split it to help it dry faster. Isn't a whole log pretty dry after a season or two? Unless you don't have the space, why not just keep a rotating supply of 2-3 years worth of logs?
Or just split in half - I'll bet that is the most important with steep diminishing returns for each additional split (which increases exponentially in number of splits, though the effort is somewhat less with each split).
-ERD50
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I only have a fire insert....it's all the house would easily take although I would have preferred a free standing. Mine is a pretty small box and putting big pieces in just doesn't work very well because of the size. With hind-site.......I should have bought the next size bigger box.
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05-01-2014, 09:49 AM
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#14
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Gone but not forgotten
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Peru
Posts: 6,335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERD50
I've read that they split it to help it dry faster. Isn't a whole log pretty dry after a season or two? Unless you don't have the space, why not just keep a rotating supply of 2-3 years worth of logs?
-ERD50
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I suppose 2 years would be ok, but FWIW, we cut up a huge black oak from our property about 15 years ago. 2 foot logs. We had used the logs as a border fence. After five years of drying, there was absolutely no way to split these 20 inch diameter logs. More than rock hard. Can't begin to get a wedge started.
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05-01-2014, 10:18 AM
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#15
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hooverville
Posts: 22,983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imoldernu
I suppose 2 years would be ok, but FWIW, we cut up a huge black oak from our property about 15 years ago. 2 foot logs. We had used the logs as a border fence. After five years of drying, there was absolutely no way to split these 20 inch diameter logs. More than rock hard. Can't begin to get a wedge started.
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A popular firewood up here is the hardwood alder. When it is green (greener the better) it splits perfectly and easily. Later it is much harder.
As soon as I limbed and cut an alder for length, I just walked around splitting the logs where they lay, like hitting golf balls. Good heavy steel-toe boots were wanted.
I enjoyed this kind of work, but I am glad it is over for me. All the tools to maintain, and IMO most of these tasks are dangerous. Plenty serious injuries to be had in a second of wandering attention.
Ha
__________________
"As a general rule, the more dangerous or inappropriate a conversation, the more interesting it is."-Scott Adams
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05-01-2014, 10:39 AM
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#16
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 6,499
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At my camp I have a splitting maul of unknown make and vintage. Works mostly OK.
The best answer to a lot of splitting is my double barrel stove with a large maw. And a 25 foot tall chimney.
The back end of the lower barrel I modified into a quasi rocket stove. It takes a bit shorter logs now, but it extracts much more btus from the wood via a far more efficient burn. More experiments are in the works.
I'd never pay $200 plus for a splitting axe.
__________________
There must be moderation in everything, including moderation.
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05-01-2014, 10:47 AM
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#17
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Recycles dryer sheets
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Bradenton
Posts: 270
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Just like anyone trying to sell a product, that advertisement is all hype. The wood looks really dry and the grain is all straight. I'm sure I could find a piece of wood that would split really easily and make a video that made my technique look great.
I actually did that at a picnic wood splitting competition once. By picking out just the right piece of wood, I split the log with one swing--using an ordinary axe.
By the way, the guy who said "he who burns wood for heat is twice warmed--once when he gathers it and once when he burns it" was only partially right. You also get warmed when you split it and stack it and haul it into the house and then again when you have to clean out the ash pan.
Incidentally, I'm glad I don't have to burn wood for heat anymore! It saved a lot of money, but it took a lot of time. But then again, it sure was nice to just put another log on the fire and cuddle up next to it with my wife...OK, forget what I said about being glad we don't burn wood anymore.
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05-01-2014, 03:03 PM
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#18
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: May 2006
Location: west coast, hi there!
Posts: 8,808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERD50
Stupid question - but if you are using a stove (not a fireplace), why even split the wood? From what I've seen of stoves, they get so hot internally they burn everything, I don't think you need that surface area to 'catch' like you do in an open fireplace.
I've read that they split it to help it dry faster. Isn't a whole log pretty dry after a season or two? Unless you don't have the space, why not just keep a rotating supply of 2-3 years worth of logs?
Or just split in half - I'll bet that is the most important with steep diminishing returns for each additional split (which increases exponentially in number of splits, though the effort is somewhat less with each split).
-ERD50
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I buy a cord of wood and that probably lasts at least 2 or 3 years. Most of my splitting is to get good kindling logs. Big pieces tend to get our house too warm in this California climate. I've learned just how much to feed the stove before it's time to call it a night. Helps to have a temperature readout for the room and 72 is just about right.
Also it's fun to do a little splitting.
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05-01-2014, 03:19 PM
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#19
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 26,821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revlefty
Just like anyone trying to sell a product, that advertisement is all hype. The wood looks really dry and the grain is all straight. I'm sure I could find a piece of wood that would split really easily and make a video that made my technique look great. ... .
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I was thinking that as well. Have not done much splitting, but those logs looked like they just about flew apart. I'm guessing any decent tool would have worked well on those.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lsbcal
I buy a cord of wood and that probably lasts at least 2 or 3 years. Most of my splitting is to get good kindling logs. Big pieces tend to get our house too warm in this California climate. I've learned just how much to feed the stove before it's time to call it a night. Helps to have a temperature readout for the room and 72 is just about right.
Also it's fun to do a little splitting.
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Heh-heh - I figured some of this was for the 'fun' of it.
Again, only a little experience with wood stoves, but I pretty much thought that setting the amount of air entering the chamber would determine the burn rate? I didn't think a big log would burn hotter, just longer? I seem to recall a crude thermal regulator on the air - it would close down as the box got hotter. That wouldn't really regulate the room temperature so well (unless you got fancy with a remote thermostat controlling the air intake), but I thought it would keep a big log from burning hot/fast.
Maybe you are counting on the small split log to just burn out after you go to bed? A large one would just be 'wasted' by burning longer into the wee hours?
-ERD50
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05-01-2014, 03:30 PM
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#20
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 11,078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERD50
I was thinking that as well. Have not done much splitting, but those logs looked like they just about flew apart. I'm guessing any decent tool would have worked well on those.
-ERD50
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1000%
I've worked producing lumber in my first career. Handled millions of board feet of logs and lumber. Cut firewood for 'side money'.
Straight grain hardwood(oak, ash, beech) knot free, split very well. If you can get it green and frozen, any tool will work. Actually sawing beech lumber in cold weather, you had to take care it didn't split during manufacturing.
MRG
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