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Old 04-04-2011, 09:50 AM   #21
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8 Bombproof DIY Bike Repair Stands - BikeHacks

Also, cheap trunk racks are ubiquitous at garages, and you could do something like this:



Here's an example of the kind of repair articles that are so useful:

Park Tool Co. ParkTool Blog Hub Overhaul and Adjustment
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:32 AM   #22
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Thanks Al! I will keep my eye out for deals on stands, though I am rarely around a good Craigslist area. I am trying to find a small frame mountain bike for for riding back in Minnesota on the ratty trails there. I've been watching Craigslist in that area for a year with no luck. It is a sizing issue. The use is so single purpose that I don't want to spring for anything at all pricey.

This afternoon I'll adjust my rear derailleur first with the bike upside down (no garage to rig something up is available where I am right now). Or, I'll have the neighbor hold the rear end up for me while I turn the pedals. If it is very frustrating, I'll put off the front until I can figure out a stand.
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Old 04-04-2011, 01:43 PM   #23
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The rope trick from the garage ceiling will work.
Here's my version.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Bicycle stand.JPG (413.2 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg Back wheel lift.JPG (456.2 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg Upper end of rope.JPG (453.6 KB, 2 views)
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Old 04-04-2011, 02:01 PM   #24
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... (no garage to rig something up is available where I am right now).
Martha, you don't need a garage to use the rope trick. Any door way would do. You need a 6 inch C-clamp or larger. The pictures show a 5 inch clamp.

Of course you would want to protect the two ends of the clamp with some cardboard to prevent damage to the wall.
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File Type: jpg 5 in C-clamp.JPG (483.7 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg Door way.JPG (406.1 KB, 2 views)
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:16 PM   #25
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What is this maintenance of which you speak?
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:43 PM   #26
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Martha, you don't need a garage to use the rope trick. Any door way would do. You need a 6 inch C-clamp or larger. The pictures show a 5 inch clamp.

Of course you would want to protect the two ends of the clamp with some cardboard to prevent damage to the wall.
Clever! I like this. I have a door. I have a C-clamp. I have cardboard. I have a rope.
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:15 PM   #27
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Here's another trick regarding bicycle maintenance: If you have a question, you can post it on the bikeforums.net Bicycle Mechanics forum, and you'll have an answer in minutes. There are guys there that live to answer questions, and if any of them live near you, they'll come over and fix it for you.

Here's an example of one of my questions:

Cable Attachment Point on Shimano 600 FD?
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:11 PM   #28
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Clever! I like this. I have a door. I have a C-clamp. I have cardboard. I have a rope.
But you are not feeling depressed, right?
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:34 PM   #29
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But you are not feeling depressed, right?
<snort>
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:38 PM   #30
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Here's another trick regarding bicycle maintenance: If you have a question, you can post it on the bikeforums.net Bicycle Mechanics forum, and you'll have an answer in minutes. There are guys there that live to answer questions, and if any of them live near you, they'll come over and fix it for you.

Here's an example of one of my questions:

Cable Attachment Point on Shimano 600 FD?
So did you also try running the cable in the other groove to see what would happen?
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:06 PM   #31
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So did you also try running the cable in the other groove to see what would happen?
I didn't because I didn't wait around for all the answers. Next time I change cables, I'll try it.

One other comment about cold garages: I often put a little electric heater in there, pointing right at me. Of course it rarely gets below freezing around here.
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Old 04-05-2011, 03:25 AM   #32
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I support the local economy and take it to the shop, even for punctures. A new tube, including installation, is only $10. I'll stick to LBYM on big stuff.
Same here. More so being mine an electric one.
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:04 AM   #33
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I support the local economy and take it to the shop, even for punctures. A new tube, including installation, is only $10. I'll stick to LBYM on big stuff.
I take the opposite approach. Bike maintenance is (finally) something mechanical I can do (to some extent) without wrecking things. I can get all that self satisfaction the home repair DIYers get for very little investment in time and effort. I support the local economy by hiring craftsmen to do all the stuff I screw up
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:59 AM   #34
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A new tube, including installation, is only $10.
Only!?

I get my tubes for $2.49 each when on sale at Nashbar.com. I used to throw them away only when they had five patches on them, but since these are so cheap, I'm no longer that strict.

I've had eight punctures on one ride in Colorado, saving $72 by patching.

One can often patch a tube without removing the wheel from the bike. That is, find the leak, pull the tube out only where the leak is, patch the hole and put it back.
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Old 04-06-2011, 07:59 AM   #35
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One can often patch a tube without removing the wheel from the bike. That is, find the leak, pull the tube out only where the leak is, patch the hole and put it back.
What is your procedure for finding the leak? The few times I've had flats I've just replaced the tube. (Thanks for the tip on cheap tubes).

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I take the opposite approach. Bike maintenance is (finally) something mechanical I can do (to some extent) without wrecking things. I can get all that self satisfaction the home repair DIYers get for very little investment in time and effort. I support the local economy by hiring craftsmen to do all the stuff I screw up
Absolutely agree. I am clumsy and not mechanically inclined. But I can maintain my own bike.
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Old 04-06-2011, 09:25 AM   #36
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What is your procedure for finding the leak?
First, with the bike still on the tire rotate it slowly and look for a piece of glass or wire. This usually doesn't work, but sometimes you'll get lucky.

WirePuncture.jpg

Next, pump it up as much as you can, then rotate it slowly with your ear an inch from the tire. You'll hear or feel the air escaping. This works about 40% of the time.

Next remove the tube, pump it up, and do the ear trick.



This works 95% of the time.

If you still haven't found it, you can fill the sink, pump up the tube, and submerge it looking for bubbles. Once you've found it this way, practice finding it with your ear.

I've had patches fail, so now that I've got a bunch of tubes that cost only $2.49, I'm more likely to just replace the tube.
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Old 04-06-2011, 09:31 AM   #37
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Good summary Al. I get varying mileage from my patches too -- I think it is because I am a lousy DIYer and don't take the time to get them right. The biggest problem occurs at seams - you have to sand the rubber down smooth or you will get raised leaky areas. I have taken to carrying an extra tube and replacing flats with that and then doing the patches in a batch at home when I have some spare time.
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Old 04-06-2011, 09:34 AM   #38
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Yes, the ones that have failed have failed at the edge.

Here I am fixing a flat without removing the wheel from the bike:



The flat was caused by one of these goathead thorns:

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Old 04-06-2011, 09:41 AM   #39
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I've been riding on Continental Ultra Gator Skin tires for years. Except for last year, when I got badly injured and was in a wheel chair for 8 weeks, I put 5,000+ miles on my bike in a year. I can't remember the last flat I got on the road, but it was probably in early 2009. I change the tires at around 3,000 miles or when they start getting worn enough to worry me and put new tubes in then. But I always carry a couple of spare tubes with me on every ride.
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:16 AM   #40
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Yes, the ones that have failed have failed at the edge.

Here I am fixing a flat without removing the wheel from the bike:



The flat was caused by one of these goathead thorns:

Looking at those thorns, I would not just want to plop down on the ground where you are sitting!
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