Yes, but not very much, not with a board, and not at my present age! The body is much more forgiving as a teenager than it is at 64.
I did have a lot of fun that one summer in the mid-1960's, body surfing the legendary, one time 20+ foot waves that scooped out Makapuu that one summer and apparently reshaped it to where it would never have waves that big again. Or so I was told. Haven't been back since the early 1970's, and even if I did go back, I would never dare. The experience is locked in my memories, though, and I am glad I did it.
That is quite a photo. I can't even imagine tangling with a 78 foot wave. One of my boyfriends during my senior year in high school broke his leg surfing Waimea (and ended up with a cast clear up to his waist which made dating him seem much less appealing to the shallow teenaged me). It was amazing that his friends were able to rescue him in the big surf.