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Old 07-06-2015, 06:39 PM   #21
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I recently saw a head-to-head review on the name brands, I'll try to find it tomorrow.
Here's a link to a summary of the review of saws (sliders), with some shopping tips done by Wood magazine a few years ago. They ran a lot of wood through them to test for accuracy/repeatability of cuts, and noted which could tilt both ways, etc.
Overall, the Makita LS1016L was their top choice, but they also like the Bosch 4410. Top Value was the Craftsman 21237.

I've read a more recent review, but can't find it.
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Old 07-07-2015, 01:16 AM   #22
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I have the DeWalt 12 inch as well. I've gotten good service from it. One recommendation would be to upgrade the blade on whatever you get. I put a high end 80 tooth Freud blade on mine and saw a step change in the smoothness of cuts.
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:37 AM   #23
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Always be safe....and if you haven't seen this yet, check it out.


saw blade stop - Bing Videos
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:39 AM   #24
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I have the DeWalt 12 inch as well. I've gotten good service from it. One recommendation would be to upgrade the blade on whatever you get. I put a high end 80 tooth Freud blade on mine and saw a step change in the smoothness of cuts.
The first thing I did when getting a new saw was to upgrade the blade. Those Freud/Diablo blades sure do a good job.
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:12 AM   #25
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Always be safe....and if you haven't seen this yet, check it out.


saw blade stop - Bing Videos
I remember reading about those some years ago, and I actually thought they might not come to market, due to liability concerns (lawsuit if it failed to stop?). IIRC, with the original ones, the saw was toast if it triggered. I was surprised to see this is just a module and blade replacement. I guess that is a bullet that drives the stop?

Related, I really appreciate the fast brake action on the newer saws - release the trigger and it stops in a second or two. I once got a minor cut removing the wood after I turned off my older saw where the blade spins for probably 30 seconds. It just doesn't seem so dangerous when it isn't making all that noise, but even that greatly slowed down blade took a notch out my finger the same as if it was spinning full speed. Fortunately, I had only pushed my finger about 1/16" into the path of the blade, but I had a very, very neat 1/8" wide, 1/16" deep notch in my finger tip and nail.

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The first thing I did when getting a new saw was to change upgrade the blade. Those Freud/Diablo blades sure do a good job.
Being a cheapskate, and usually doing rough work, I go for pretty cheap blades, in case I hit a nail or something, no big loss. But I had one project that was critical, cutting some expensive pre-finished molding with little room for error. I bit the bullet and bought a blade that cost almost as much as my saw (I think it was a Freud).

But wow - the results were fantastic! Smooth, no tear out whatsoever. It was worth every penny and more for that project.

-ERD50
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:35 AM   #26
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...

Being a cheapskate, and usually doing rough work, I go for pretty cheap blades, in case I hit a nail or something, no big loss. But I had one project that was critical, cutting some expensive pre-finished molding with little room for error. I bit the bullet and bought a blade that cost almost as much as my saw (I think it was a Freud).

But wow - the results were fantastic! Smooth, no tear out whatsoever. It was worth every penny and more for that project.

-ERD50
I go cordless with my saws. With the circular saws, the blade that came with had problems cross cutting a 2 x 4. With the Freud, no problem at all. I didn't even try using the original blade on the miter and just made the upgrade.
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Old 07-07-2015, 01:45 PM   #27
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Do any of you guys sharpen your saw blades yourself? I have a couple of expensive Forrest blades for my table saw and have been using a local sharpening service, cost isn't too bad and it does make the blade like new. Never tried it myself but see there are a few youtube videos on DIY blade sharpening.
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:40 PM   #28
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Here is what I have. Easy to cut and even holds longer pieces of wood after you cut them. I can haul it upstairs if I need to easily.

RIDGID 15-Amp 12 in. Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Adjustable Laser-MS1290LZA - The Home Depot

And the stand makes it easy to store or move around.
RIDGID Mobile Miter Saw Stand-AC9945 - The Home Depot
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Old 07-07-2015, 05:19 PM   #29
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Pretty sure I will go with 12 inch, not sure about slide, just about doubles the cost of the saw.

On blades, the shop I was using to sharpen did very good work, but closed.

I found someone on cragslist that will sharpen or exchange for sharpened blades. The guy works out of his home garage , will see what his work is like next time to sharpen a blade.
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:10 PM   #30
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Haven't tried to sharpen my own blades. I have about 4 Freuds that I rotate, and I bring the dull ones to Woodcraft and they have a guy pick them up and sharpen them. They look new when I get them back.
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Old 07-08-2015, 08:21 AM   #31
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Regarding blade sharpening, are you all referring to high speed steel blades or carbide tipped. Certainly the carbide blades stay sharp a lot longer vs steel/HS steel blades.
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:02 AM   #32
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I use Freud Premier Fusion - carbide tipped

Amazon.com: Freud P410 Premier Fusion 10-Inch 40 Tooth Hi-ATB General Purpose Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating: Home Improvement
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:37 AM   #33
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I always used Freud carbide blades many years ago, and they were great.
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Old 07-27-2015, 10:33 PM   #34
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Still shopping , looking at Hitachi . Took a photo of a vintage miter saw I was bequeathed. 24 inch, variable speed , ball bearing blade guides, auto-blade stop. A little short on power though. Craftsman from the 1960's , I bet it was $$$ in the day.
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Old 07-27-2015, 10:56 PM   #35
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Another option, depending on the work you do: A radial arm saw. They aren't as popular as they used to be, but I see them in garage sales sometimes. Probably not as precise as a high-quality miter saw, but lots of capacity. And, if you want to tempt fate, you can use them to rip long pieces. It's supposed to be safe, but once you've seen them shoot a board out at high speed, you get a lot of respect for the safety rules. But crosscutting is no drama.
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:11 PM   #36
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Another option, depending on the work you do: A radial arm saw. They aren't as popular as they used to be, but I see them in garage sales sometimes. Probably not as precise as a high-quality miter saw, but lots of capacity. And, if you want to tempt fate, you can use them to rip long pieces. It's supposed to be safe, but once you've seen them shoot a board out at high speed, you get a lot of respect for the safety rules. But crosscutting is no drama.
My first big power tool was/is a Craftsman 10" RAS I got from DW's dad. What a pain in the butt! I've never been able to get it tuned correctly, and you're right, ripping with it was very interesting in the Chinese Proverb definition of the word. I would definitely advise against it as a replacement for the miter saw. It's got a bit more flexibility, but it also takes up quite a bit of room. I keep meaning to sell mine, but there are always a ton of them on Craigslist practically for free. At least the top makes a good place to stack stuff and hang your clamps from.
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:18 PM   #37
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My first big power tool was/is a Craftsman 10" RAS I got from DW's dad.
Did you get along with DW's dad, or was he trying to send you a message?
Like you, I still have my 10" Craftsman RAS. Remember all the attachments you could get for the arbor on other side of the motor from the blade? I've even got a rotary planing attachment for that thing, looks like it will plane about 5" at a time, so it could be useful for board up to about 10" wide. I'm scared to even try it. I need a little brother --"Hey, want to try something neat?"
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:41 PM   #38
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Another option, depending on the work you do: A radial arm saw. They aren't as popular as they used to be, but I see them in garage sales sometimes. Probably not as precise as a high-quality miter saw, but lots of capacity. And, if you want to tempt fate, you can use them to rip long pieces. It's supposed to be safe, but once you've seen them shoot a board out at high speed, you get a lot of respect for the safety rules. But crosscutting is no drama.

Sounds to me like you were ripping in the wrong direction.... I remember back when I was young doing it with my dad.... had to make sure you were pushing it with the blade spinning against the cut....

I was young when he did it, but dad built a two car garage with it....
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Old 07-28-2015, 12:00 AM   #39
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Sounds to me like you were ripping in the wrong direction.... I remember back when I was young doing it with my dad.... had to make sure you were pushing it with the blade spinning against the cut....

I was young when he did it, but dad built a two car garage with it....
When ripping, the RAS can kick the board back at you even when feeding from the proper direction, it most often happens if the wood binds on the blade (due to internal tensions in the board released during the cut, misalignment of the fence, etc). The best defense is to keep the nose of the blade guard very low against the work and to adjust the spreaders/anti-kickback pawls properly--and then stay out of the way just in case.

Sorry, Lakewood--back to miter saws. But, if you buy a RAS instead you're more likely to acquire a story soon after.
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Old 07-28-2015, 12:15 AM   #40
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When ripping, the RAS can kick the board back at you even when feeding from the proper direction,...................................
Sorry, Lakewood--back to miter saws. But, if you buy a RAS instead you're more likely to acquire a story soon after.
Kind of like doing crosscuts with a dull blade and weak grip on a tablesaw

Never cut off any fingers, but sure got whacked a couple of times.
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