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Old 03-31-2015, 05:04 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by TromboneAl View Post
Thanks. Will go 8' & 3' deep. The whole fence will only be about 20' long.
Posts normally come in 2' increments...6', 8', 10', 12'. If you're building a 6' fence, you may as well dig a 4' hole instead of cutting a foot off each post. At 4' you can virtually guarantee that it will stay straight for years to come.

Also, set them in gravel...posts set in gravel will never rot. Posts set in concrete will eventually rot as concrete wicks moisture.
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Old 04-01-2015, 03:53 PM   #22
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If the neighbors are all agreeable, you just split the costs and put the fence on the property line. If one of the neighbors is, well, less than agreeable, you put the fence entirely on your side of the property line and pay for it all yourself, selecting a fence design that you can repair/replace boards from your side without trespassing.

"Fence law" is an entire legal specialty.

When in doubt, consult a lawyer specializing in this stuff. Really.
Thanks for the tip. They are reasonable about everything else, so hopefully the trend will continue.

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+1 and if your neighbor is a jerk, paint the side of the boards facing their side an obnoxious color before installing. Bright pink? Bright orange?
The neighbor behind us has a 5 year old daughter who would probably be thrilled with a bright pink fence in her backyard, so I'll be sure to mention it when she is around. Not.
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Old 04-01-2015, 04:08 PM   #23
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It's going well.

Two other questions: How many screws would you recommend for attaching the 2x4s to the 4x4s? And how many for the cedar planks?

Here it is so far. Yes, it's a tall fence.



I'm building it to hide the studio that the new neighbor is going to build in his yard. They bought the house, then realized it was too small, and we have to pay for their mistake.
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