Originally Posted by ronin
No strings required!
Great photo, but I'd like to see what happened to the subject of it in the subsequent 15 seconds... and if he wasn't wearing a leash, how far did he have to chase that board?
Much better today.* Clean 8-10 footers, peeling off into left & right breaks with only occasional closeouts.* The waves were big enough that I saw a couple guys trying for tube rides (ouch).* Boogie boarders were getting tubed less than 25 yards from the beach.* There weren't many rips or side roads or breaks today; we had to paddle out through all the mess and it was darn near endless.* I'd spend 15-20 minutes getting to a good spot and I'd sit up to try to catch my breath and enjoy the view of Diamond Head when suddenly aiiieeeeeeeee... a no-paddle takeoff.* It doesn't get any better than this.
The epoxy board is a hit.* Very responsive and easy to steer.* I thought I'd miss the thrusters but I'm having too much fun to notice.* It weighs a bit more than our 9'2" foam/fiberglas longboard but it seems to have more buoyancy, and it does have a wider profile near the tail.* I also think it's easier to paddle out but I might be prejudiced.
I saw a kid (age 12? 13?)* paddling out on the same board (he was surfing with his dad) and when I when I came in I walked past them.* They were eyeballing my board so I asked the kid how he likes it.* His dad said "It's great!"* I asked the kid how long he's owned it.* His dad said "A couple years, and we really like it a lot!"* I said to the kid "Your dad hardly ever lets you use that board, does he?" and he finally got a word in edgewise:* "Nope."
I met C.J. the USMC colonel in the parking lot as I was unloading.* He healed up fine and he doen't bear any ill will.* He did say that he'd gone off the lip this morning and found the bottom, which is not easily done at White Plains beach, so I think he's one of those thrill-seeking high-risk Marines who's always getting dinged up.* (I know, Jarhead, all those modifiers to the word "Marine" are just redundant...)
800 mg of ibuprofen, an afternoon nap plus a good night's sleep, and I'll be ready for tomorrow!
School has a day off next Monday and in a stunning surprise, my daughter asked if I could drive her posse to the beach.* We'll be taking four 12- & 13-year old grrrrls, three surfboards, four boogie boards, a couple cameras, and plenty of food & frosty beverages.* They'll probably want me to rent my own pavilion so that they don't have to be seen with me, but I'll be spending the day on the waves anyhow.* Is this a great country or what?!?