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Old 02-19-2009, 12:56 PM   #21
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I can't thank all who answered my question enough. My contractor gave me a quote of $9000 to replace our worn out PT deck with a plastic tongue in groove product from Milliken. It is a ribbed, very plastic looking product that I am just not sold on. The deck is 12x20 and that price includes the removal of an outside stairs that are no longer necessary. It includes an extra post and extra joists required for this new product. One of the drawbacks of the product as I see it is there is no way for the deck to drain except over the sides. Now the snow melts thru the spaces between the deck boards. I want a gray product to blend with the house. My trusted contractor is willing to use another product which is why the research. Thanks so much guys!
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Old 02-19-2009, 02:30 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoe View Post
I can't thank all who answered my question enough. My contractor gave me a quote of $9000 to replace our worn out PT deck with a plastic tongue in groove product from Milliken. It is a ribbed, very plastic looking product that I am just not sold on. The deck is 12x20 and that price includes the removal of an outside stairs that are no longer necessary.
Wow, that sounds really high. I just added a 19x17 extension on an existing deck, including railings and stairs 5 steps high. Used treated wood and the total cost was under $1,300 - that's for materials only since I did the work myself.
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Old 02-19-2009, 03:31 PM   #23
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REWahoo it thought it was WAY too high also. I was thinking more along the line of $5000. I think part of the reason it is so high is because it is expensive for the contractor to dispose of "hazardous waste" as pressure treated wood is determined to be in these parts. He isn't a low price contractor but his workmanship is impeccable so I put up with paying a bit more...but certainly not $4000 more.
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Old 02-19-2009, 03:41 PM   #24
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My contractor gave me a quote of $9000 to replace our worn out PT deck with a plastic tongue in groove product from Milliken. It is a ribbed, very plastic looking product that I am just not sold on. The deck is 12x20 ....
That is ludicrously high, almost $40 a square foot.

You trust this contractor ?

I've heard $25/sq-ft as a good price for a "premium" deck, from the
ground up - premium meaning Trex and "fancy" railing (e.g. EMT
conduit and stainless steel wire rope")
Attached Images
File Type: jpg railing1.jpg (883.0 KB, 2 views)
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Old 02-19-2009, 07:07 PM   #25
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Rusty I am printing off the pix of your railing. I have a beautiful backyard and would love the unobstructed view your deck rail system would provide. Thanks!
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Old 02-20-2009, 07:51 PM   #26
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My MIL has a composite deck that was installed at least 15 years ago. Other than the predicted fading, it's worn well. The joists are beginning to rot, so they'll have to be replaced (they're old wood) but the rest of the deck is still very solid.

As far as feel underfoot, I find it very comfortable and am usually barefoot up there.
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:15 PM   #27
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shoe. I'm in akron and would be happy to do it for 9k! I think the guy is taking you to the cleaners. For something like that, we'd charge less than 5k....much less.
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Old 02-23-2009, 02:31 PM   #28
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Rusty I am printing off the pix of your railing. I have a beautiful backyard and would love the unobstructed view your deck rail system would provide. Thanks!
Thanks. Be advised, there is an expensive route:

Untitled Document

... and a cheaper route. The cheaper route is to go to a place
that sells "wire rope" and have them "swage" an "eye" into the end
of a bunch of lengths of stainless-steel wire-rope of the right lengths.
You don't need the "thimble" because the cables won't get much actual
wear. You then get some of these:

Eyebolts, Unwelded, 304 Stainless Steel, Precision Formed

... and attach the cable eyes to them. At the other end, you simply
crimp on a brass "stop" with a crimping tool you can pay a LOT for,
but get it cheaper ($20-30) at Lowe's. Of course, you also put a
stainless-steel washer (also available at bosunsupplies) behind the
stop. Do NOT be tempted to use any non-stainless steel parts, as
corrosive as modern (actually less-toxic) PT lumber is; except for
the "stops", which are brass I believe. Good luck !
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