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Old 07-26-2011, 05:20 PM   #41
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...........In the meantime, I think I'll just stick with the new jump-starter, that was cheaper than those cables anyway...........
The problem with the jump starters is that the batteries die after a couple of years. Your grandkids will still be using these jumper cables...
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Old 07-26-2011, 05:29 PM   #42
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The problem with the jump starters is that the batteries die after a couple of years. Your grandkids will still be using these jumper cables...
I don't have any grandkids, at least not yet! But I see your point.
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:33 PM   #43
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The problem with the jump starters is that the batteries die after a couple of years. Your grandkids will still be using these jumper cables...
By then we'll be back to hand-cranking manually starting them...
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Old 07-26-2011, 07:16 PM   #44
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Interesting thread on the finer details of some of the newer cars. I'm taking notes or at least hope I can find this thread in the future if I need it.

I don't think I would want to get the jump starter and would probably opt for a charger and charge the battery for a few hours or overnight. A charger should be good for decades or at least the one my dad has continues to be after 40 some years.

Several years ago my pick-up battery was dead, dead, dead and I called AAA to come out even though I have jumper cables. Wow, was I ever glad I did. It started with the jump after a couple of tries, but wouldn't continue running. This happened about 4-5 times and then the tow truck driver left the jumper cables on for about 15 minutes while I kept my foot on the gas. After that it appeared to keep running and he suggested I let it run for an hour before shutting it off. So I went out for a drive. Unfortunately I got hit by a driver failing to notice the yield signs on the road he was on, but that is another story. After the repairs, the pu battery seems to be fine. So I don't mind paying the membership for AAA each year although I mostly get maps and tour guides from them.
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Old 07-26-2011, 07:31 PM   #45
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The problem with the jump starters is that the batteries die after a couple of years. Your grandkids will still be using these jumper cables...
+1

That's been my experience with those things. I put it in my trunk and forget about it and when I need it, it is dead as a hammer. Also, most of today's "maintenance free" batteries die suddenly with no warning. This is usually caused by an open cell in the battery. In this case, the battery power jump starters are useless but high quality jumper cables will probably work.

Two of my prized possessions are two sets of jumper cables I bought at Sears about 40 years ago. Back when you went to Sears for top quality merchandise.

The last dead battery I had was a couple of years ago. I had driven a long way so the battery was fully charged. I stopped at a gas station and turned off the engine while I filled the tank. When I tried to start the engine, the battery was dead. I was really lucky. As soon as I opened my hood an elderly gentleman wearing a WWII unit baseball cap and driving an old S10 Chevrolet pick up offered to help. We were able to jump start my pickup with my prized jumper cables and I made a run to the nearest Super Walmart. In my opinion Walmart batteries are as good as any.
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:02 AM   #46
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+1

That's been my experience with those things. I put it in my trunk and forget about it and when I need it, it is dead as a hammer. Also, most of today's "maintenance free" batteries die suddenly with no warning. This is usually caused by an open cell in the battery. In this case, the battery power jump starters are useless but high quality jumper cables will probably work.

Two of my prized possessions are two sets of jumper cables I bought at Sears about 40 years ago. Back when you went to Sears for top quality merchandise.

The last dead battery I had was a couple of years ago. I had driven a long way so the battery was fully charged. I stopped at a gas station and turned off the engine while I filled the tank. When I tried to start the engine, the battery was dead. I was really lucky. As soon as I opened my hood an elderly gentleman wearing a WWII unit baseball cap and driving an old S10 Chevrolet pick up offered to help. We were able to jump start my pickup with my prized jumper cables and I made a run to the nearest Super Walmart. In my opinion Walmart batteries are as good as any.

The one problem with the old style jumper cables is they can destroy your electronics if there is a spark when attaching them... I knew of a guy who had to replace some control unit for a few hundred dollars... that is why I went with the newer ones that prevent this from happening...

New cars have a lot more computers in them which can be fried if you are not careful and I would rather not take that chance either helping someone or needing help....
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:29 AM   #47
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The one problem with the old style jumper cables is they can destroy your electronics if there is a spark when attaching them... I knew of a guy who had to replace some control unit for a few hundred dollars... that is why I went with the newer ones that prevent this from happening...

New cars have a lot more computers in them which can be fried if you are not careful and I would rather not take that chance either helping someone or needing help....

I don't understand. Don't the jumper packs spark, too?
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:11 AM   #48
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I don't understand. Don't the jumper packs spark, too?

I guess you have never jumped a car...

You are supposed to put the two clamps on the good battery.. then put the positive clamp on the bad battery... then the negative on some other part of the car (not the battery)... when you do this last one there is a surge and sometimes sparks (why you do not do it near the battery in case there are explosive fumes)...

This surge goes through your car system... back when there were no computers it was not a big deal... even today, most of the time it is not...

But say you do it a bit backwards and put the last clamp as the positive on the bad battery... big sparks can occur... and say that you bump it a few times before you get it clamped... many surges of power going through the system...

This can destroy any of your cars chips... on either car... not good to have to spend money fixing a blown chip helping someone jump their car...

I have known it to happen once and possibly a second time (they are not sure what caused it, but did jump somebody within a few days of the problem showing up)...
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Old 07-27-2011, 03:13 PM   #49
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I guess you have never jumped a car...

You are supposed to put the two clamps on the good battery.. then put the positive clamp on the bad battery... then the negative on some other part of the car (not the battery)... when you do this last one there is a surge and sometimes sparks (why you do not do it near the battery in case there are explosive fumes)...

This surge goes through your car system... back when there were no computers it was not a big deal... even today, most of the time it is not...

But say you do it a bit backwards and put the last clamp as the positive on the bad battery... big sparks can occur... and say that you bump it a few times before you get it clamped... many surges of power going through the system...

This can destroy any of your cars chips... on either car... not good to have to spend money fixing a blown chip helping someone jump their car...

I have known it to happen once and possibly a second time (they are not sure what caused it, but did jump somebody within a few days of the problem showing up)...
Still confused. The jumper pack is nothing more than a portable battery. Some packs have a high current switch built in, but when you engage this switch, a current surge and probably internal spark occurs.

I've noticed that my owner's manual suggests turning on the blower fans of the two vehicles to protect the electronics. At any rate, I don't think that jumping a car battery with a second vehicle is an obsolete procedure
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Old 07-27-2011, 05:47 PM   #50
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You are supposed to put the two clamps on the good battery.. then put the positive clamp on the bad battery... then the negative on some other part of the car (not the battery)... when you do this last one there is a surge and sometimes sparks (why you do not do it near the battery in case there are explosive fumes)...
I'd expect that the sparks are caused by whatever voltage difference exists between the negative clamp from the good car and the dead car's ground. Both cars are shut off so no (significant) current is flowing from either battery inside their vehicles. The negative clamp on the good car battery's negative terminal is already connected to the good car's ground by the good car's grounding cable off the negative battery terminal.

Once the other end of the negative cable clamps on the ground of the dead car, there's no more voltage difference between the cars. I guess you could attach both cars to grounding rods, but otherwise those eight rubber tires keep the cars ungrounded.

IIRC on my jumper cables it advises (1) positive terminal of good battery, (2) positive terminal of bad battery, (3) walk back over to the good car to connect the negative terminal of the good battery, (4) clamp the last negative to ground on the dead car.

I'd think if someone connected (1) and (3) first, and then started untangling the jumper cables, they'd inevitably encounter Murphy's Law of electricity and inadvertently bring the dangly ends of the cables in contact with each other, directly shorting across the good battery's terminals. For a blindingly brief and exciting flash, anyway.
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:41 AM   #51
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I'd expect that the sparks are caused by whatever voltage difference exists between the negative clamp from the good car and the dead car's ground. Both cars are shut off so no (significant) current is flowing from either battery inside their vehicles. The negative clamp on the good car battery's negative terminal is already connected to the good car's ground by the good car's grounding cable off the negative battery terminal.

Once the other end of the negative cable clamps on the ground of the dead car, there's no more voltage difference between the cars. I guess you could attach both cars to grounding rods, but otherwise those eight rubber tires keep the cars ungrounded.

IIRC on my jumper cables it advises (1) positive terminal of good battery, (2) positive terminal of bad battery, (3) walk back over to the good car to connect the negative terminal of the good battery, (4) clamp the last negative to ground on the dead car.

I'd think if someone connected (1) and (3) first, and then started untangling the jumper cables, they'd inevitably encounter Murphy's Law of electricity and inadvertently bring the dangly ends of the cables in contact with each other, directly shorting across the good battery's terminals. For a blindingly brief and exciting flash, anyway.
Yes... I did put down the wrong order of connection.... I used to do it as I posted since you do have a dangling clamp somewhere... I would rather hold the two for the dead car in my hand and not leave either car with one laying on whatever...

As I mentioned, the new cable eliminates all these issues as power will not flow until it is connect up correctly... (at least that is what they say)...
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