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Old 01-20-2012, 02:03 PM   #21
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Here's another vote for the ethanol being the root cause.

Gas powered equipment that sit unused for long periods of time are having issues because of the effects of ethanol. Problems: Ethanol absorbs moisture and is also an excellent solvent. When ethanol absorbs moisture, the steel float bowls of carburators are rusting. The rust/corrosion then breaks loose, plugging the tiny holes of the jets with in the carborator. The moisture laden ethanol also corrodes aluminum float bowls making aluminum oxide that also clogs the tiny jets. Fuel stabilizers seem to be helping solve some of these issues. The only guarantee not to have issues is to drain the carb float bowl before seasonal storage.

The solvent properties are wreaking havoc in the marine industry because many older boats built in fiberglass fuel tanks. The Ethanol is breaking the tanks down and sending the material through the fuel line.
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Old 01-20-2012, 04:02 PM   #22
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First thing to do always is get fresh fuel if it is more than 30 days old.

Make sure the cap is venting.....loosen it a crack if necessary.

Make sure the spark arrestor is not plugged.....remove muffler and scrape the screen or soak in seafoam if it looks plugged up.

Tape a piece of foam over the air inlet if you need to.

Last resort for me is to pull the carb apart, soak everything in seafoam and replace the diaphram.
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Old 01-20-2012, 04:24 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by DAYDREAMER View Post
Here's another vote for the ethanol being the root cause.

Gas powered equipment that sit unused for long periods of time are having issues because of the effects of ethanol. Problems: Ethanol absorbs moisture and is also an excellent solvent. When ethanol absorbs moisture, the steel float bowls of carburators are rusting. The rust/corrosion then breaks loose, plugging the tiny holes of the jets with in the carborator. The moisture laden ethanol also corrodes aluminum float bowls making aluminum oxide that also clogs the tiny jets. Fuel stabilizers seem to be helping solve some of these issues. The only guarantee not to have issues is to drain the carb float bowl before seasonal storage.

The solvent properties are wreaking havoc in the marine industry because many older boats built in fiberglass fuel tanks. The Ethanol is breaking the tanks down and sending the material through the fuel line.
+1 Alcohol can act as a solvent for materials that are petroleum resistant.
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Old 01-20-2012, 05:39 PM   #24
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Off subject here but the mechanically inclined might appreciate my 3 yo grandson's comment the other day. He was looking closely at one of his Thomas train engines looked sad, "Grandma I want one with PISTONS! " He seemed to know exactoly what a piston is, I had to tell him that I didn't have one to give him.

Darned if I know where he came up with that.
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Old 01-20-2012, 09:25 PM   #25
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Darned if I know where he came up with that.
Sounds like you might have yourself a hard-wired gearhead there...
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Old 02-01-2012, 06:35 PM   #26
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The symptoms are less severe, but the troubleshooting continues...

I sprayed carb cleaner all over the butterfly valve and the throttle block, then soaked the cylinder as well. Carb cleaner's pretty cheap!

When I took the plastic liner off the throttle block (the liner is under the priming bulb on top of the throttle block) a little gummy chunk of resin came off, so that was worth doing.

I added Sta-Bil to the weedwhacker's fuel tank and our two-stroke gas can.

30 minutes later I put everything back together and started pulling on the weedwhacker's start cord. After 103 pulls the cylinder had finally cleared out the carb cleaner and the engine began turning over. It ran pretty smoky for a couple minutes (on full choke) but finally warmed up.

It runs great when the butterfly valve is shut, and it runs even faster (max RPM) when the butterfly valve is opened a little. But when I move the choke lever from "full choke" to "run", the weedwhacker still shuts down. I get a little bit of leeway if I'm quick on the choke lever but it really isn't sustaining its combustion.

A few hours later it occurred to me that I'd cleaned the heck out of the priming orifi, the air inlet, and the cylinder. However I didn't exercise the throttle while I was spraying the carb cleaner, so if there's something gummed up in the throttle pipeline then it's probably still there. I'll take a new look at that another day.

The plastic handle on the pull rope broke apart from all the pull-starting. I still have enough to work with but a new weedwhacker is looking like a strong possibility.
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Old 02-01-2012, 07:28 PM   #27
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Remember the Onan generator that I had trouble with when I first got my MH? It ran rough, and I knew that was simply because the owner let it sit and the jet was gummed up.

I sprayed lots of carb cleaner onto the air inlet, but that did nothing.

The only way to dissolve the gum was to get the cleaner into the carburetor bowl. So, I disconnected the fuel line, and sprayed quite a bit of cleaner fluid into that fuel inlet. Then, re-attached the fuel line, and started it up. Worked like a charm!
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:15 PM   #28
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You will have to adjust the needle valve. Sometime turning it one way then back again will loosen the gummy stuff to let it run again. But for the most part an adjustment will be needed. It took me about three tries before I got it running smooth. Check u-tube videos on carb adjustments.
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