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Old 08-06-2014, 08:32 PM   #21
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Yes, thanks I'll definitely do that. I'll get one at the hardware store because I need it tomorrow, then I'll get those or get one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/White-Halogen-...lacement+78+mm
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:56 PM   #22
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Perhaps they don't make them like they used to. Or that the utility has been messing around, and your line voltage is higher than 115V. Do you have a voltmeter to check?

If it keeps failing, I would put in a wall dimmer to cut the power to the bulb a bit.
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Old 08-07-2014, 05:46 AM   #23
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This happened to me all the time with a new kitchen light/fan, then on my electrician's advice I ordered halogens rated at 130V instead of 120V. Issue went away.

I found them on Amzn.
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Old 08-07-2014, 06:35 AM   #24
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Perhaps they don't make them like they used to. Or that the utility has been messing around, and your line voltage is higher than 115V. Do you have a voltmeter to check?

If it keeps failing, I would put in a wall dimmer to cut the power to the bulb a bit.

I recall T-Al's neighbor had hot wired to the utility to power their grow operation, and overloaded the feeds to the point of smoking. Perhaps somewhere along the way, someone on your feed complained of low voltage, and the utility increased the voltage to that feed, and never brought it back down when the grow operation was detected?

If you have high voltage, you want it fixed. It can affect a lot of things, but filament bulbs are very sensitive to delta V. IIRC a 10% increase gives less than 50% life.

I'd put in an LED rated dimmer in either case. Dimming is a nice feature and will increase bulb life (I think halogens need occasional time at full power - something about the halogen depositing on the glass and needing to be 'burned off').

130V bulbs would help but I say fix the source.

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Old 08-07-2014, 07:31 AM   #25
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I checked the voltage last time and it was fine--while I was testing at least.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:41 AM   #26
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I vote for a new fixture. I used to love these halogens, but they always have burn out problems, even if you treat them with surgical precision.

I suggest you look into some of the newest LED fixtures. Some are really, really smart looking. Not cheap, but they can work amazingly well. Technology is finally catching up. In 20 years, I think everything will be LED.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:57 AM   #27
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I vote for a new fixture. I used to love these halogens, but they always have burn out problems, even if you treat them with surgical precision.

I suggest you look into some of the newest LED fixtures. Some are really, really smart looking. Not cheap, but they can work amazingly well. Technology is finally catching up. In 20 years, I think everything will be LED.
+1 re getting a new fixture. There might be safety issues.
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Old 08-07-2014, 08:07 AM   #28
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I checked the voltage last time and it was fine--while I was testing at least.
FWIW, mine did too. 130v bulbs still solved the problem.
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:01 PM   #29
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Burned out today. Four years.

I'm going to try an LED replacement.
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:10 PM   #30
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Those rod style halogens suck for life. I was replacing mine every 6 months. I think the prong style contacts are a big cause, you depend on spring force to maintain contact and it's not anywhere as good as screwing something in. There is always evidence of arcing by way of pitting and discoloration every time I changed one.

Just a crap design me thinks. Yeah, go LED -
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Old 02-15-2018, 01:45 PM   #31
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Worked perfectly—plug and play, baby! [BUT SEE BELOW.]





https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 02-15-2018, 02:14 PM   #32
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Worked perfectly—plug and play, baby!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But will it last 4 years?

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Old 02-15-2018, 02:40 PM   #33
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Earthled.com offers a 5 year warranty for $5/entire order. Unfortunately they don't have this particular type of bulb.
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Old 02-15-2018, 04:50 PM   #34
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I just grew 50 years older while reading this thread. Here's proof:

[CRANKY]

Why is it that an inherently simple task like replacing a light bulb has become so gosh awful complex in the past few years? I remember the good old days when all you did was unscrew the burned out incandescent bulb and screw in a new one. And you had plenty of the new ones in the closet, because they hardly cost anything.

It's almost like they (you know, the eternal "they") just want to make things harder for cranky old people like me who just want to replace the doggone lightbulb and get on with their other activities.

[/CRANKY]
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:17 PM   #35
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But will it last 4 years?

-ERD50
On the one hand, LEDs should last a lifetime. On the other hand, it was probably made as cheaply as possible.

>Why is it that an inherently simple task like replacing a light bulb has become so gosh awful complex in the past few years?

Partly because humans value innovation above standardization. I never would have purchased this fixture because it doesn't take standard lightbulbs.
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Old 02-15-2018, 06:15 PM   #36
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The vastly reduced current demands will reduce the arcing and pitting of the contacts not to mention the way lower temps.
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:20 PM   #37
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I just grew 50 years older while reading this thread. Here's proof:

[CRANKY]

Why is it that an inherently simple task like replacing a light bulb has become so gosh awful complex in the past few years? I remember the good old days when all you did was unscrew the burned out incandescent bulb and screw in a new one. And you had plenty of the new ones in the closet, because they hardly cost anything.

It's almost like they (you know, the eternal "they") just want to make things harder for cranky old people like me who just want to replace the doggone lightbulb and get on with their other activities.

[/CRANKY]
Hint: don't try working on your car.

Actually, something else came to mind... The base. You have to really be careful of the type of base these days. And the size. Some of the bulbs fit the base, but won't sneak into the fixture, especially the LED retrofits.

Ever encounter a GU24 base? It is like, "why oh why?" I guess ostensibly only lower draw bulbs are in a GU24 to prevent you from putting in a high draw incandescent in a low amperage, low temp fixture. I guess.

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Old 02-15-2018, 07:24 PM   #38
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Alas, it's slightly too dim and slightly too blue.

Shoot!

Now I have to either:

1. Buy a halogen
2. Replace the fixture with something that takes plain old bulbs
3. Jury rig it so I can put a brighter LED standard bulb in there.
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Old 02-15-2018, 08:29 PM   #39
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On the one hand, LEDs should last a lifetime. ....
I wouldn't count on it. That stupid LED "lifetime" spec is a crock. It isn't a number that tells you how long the LED will last, it's a measure of how long it takes before it is estimated to dim to 70% of initial output. That's done by measuring the drop over a few weeks/months and extrapolating.

Long before then, it will probably just fail, due to a bad capacitor, because, they are made as cheaply as possible.

Quote:
>Why is it that an inherently simple task like replacing a light bulb has become so gosh awful complex in the past few years? ...
And then add in a dimmer control. I found some LEDs work with some LED rated dimmers, other LEDs work with other LED rated dimmers, but not all LEDs work with all LED rated dimmers. I had to add a filament bulb to the circuit to get ours to work correctly.

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Alas, it's slightly too dim and slightly too blue.

Shoot!

Now I have to either:

1. Buy a halogen
2. Replace the fixture with something that takes plain old bulbs
3. Jury rig it so I can put a brighter LED standard bulb in there.
Did you get the warm white? Others tend to be more bluish. The LEDs I added to replace our fluorescent tubes were too bright! I ended up putting them in upside down, so the LEDs pointed up, and reflected back. That softened the direct shadows, and diffused it enough so the brightness was about right.

I thought you were misusing a term, but it is:

Jury-rigged vs. Jerry-rigged - Everything After Z by Dictionary.com (versus jerry-built).

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Old 02-16-2018, 01:50 PM   #40
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It said "warm white" but I guess that's a relative term. It was almost good enough.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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