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Old 12-14-2011, 06:56 AM   #21
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In the neverending saga of why I will never be a handy man I solved this problem or, more accurately, DW solved it. After setting the box to continuous on and still no lights I had concluded that the whole box was dead and was considering replacing the whole lighting system. This was a high end set but many years old. DW went out to the back yard to put up some Christmas lights and discovered that she had to reset a GPFS in the box on the deck and, voila, the lights are working again. I didn't even know there was a GPFS out there.
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Old 12-14-2011, 07:12 AM   #22
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The correct way to wire this is the incoming (feed) from the power source should be white and black. Connect the white to white and the black to black. Also connect the white going to the (load) lights to the white. Connect the red to the outgoing line (load) to the lights.
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Old 12-14-2011, 08:08 AM   #23
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because of the elements (water, etc) pretty much every outside electrical outlet is wired somewhere in line with a GPFS outlet. Same with bathrooms, garbage disposals, etc. In my case I have some GPFS's that are outside but have others that are actually inside that operate outside outlets.

The never ending search for the correct GPFS switch to trigger is always an adventure.
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Old 12-14-2011, 09:52 AM   #24
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What is that old adage? When you hear hoof beats think horses not zebras.
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Old 12-14-2011, 10:24 AM   #25
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Long ago, and far away, I worked for a hardware store. One of the more pleasant chores was to deliver new appliances. We wheeled in a new range, removed the old one, connected everything, then tried to fire the thing up, but nothing. Tripped breaker...
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Old 12-14-2011, 11:05 PM   #26
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The outlets in one of our bathrooms are wire through the GFCI of the other bathroom. So if it is tripped in one, the outlets in the other are out. Luckily, I figured this out just before calling an electrician.
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:07 AM   #27
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The outlets in one of our bathrooms are wire through the GFCI of the other bathroom. So if it is tripped in one, the outlets in the other are out. Luckily, I figured this out just before calling an electrician.
I had a new furnace installed yesterday. I was down there going over the finshed job with the installer and without thinking I flicked off the "light switch" inside the furnace room as we were stepping out. I instantly remembered that that switch doesn't just control the light (which also has a pull cord) it controls the power to the furnace. I learned that decades ago when the heat went out and I called a repair man who chuckled and flipped the switch back on to fix my problem. He had run into the same problem countless times.
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:09 AM   #28
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More decades than I like to think about I was a service tech for domestic heating and refrigeration units. Many's the call that was solved by first checking "Is the unit getting power?"

Some groused at the service charge we had to charge for simply showing up and then flipping a breaker/changing a fuse, but most were more philosophical and said "Dang, I should have checked that first".
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:27 AM   #29
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It's a variant of Sattlinger's law: It works better if you turn it on.
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:36 PM   #30
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I had a new furnace installed yesterday. I was down there going over the finshed job with the installer and without thinking I flicked off the "light switch" inside the furnace room as we were stepping out. I instantly remembered that that switch doesn't just control the light (which also has a pull cord) it controls the power to the furnace. I learned that decades ago when the heat went out and I called a repair man who chuckled and flipped the switch back on to fix my problem. He had run into the same problem countless times.
The furnace should be on its own circuit, not shared with anything else. And it should have a switch mounted on/near the furnace that only turns power on/off to the furnace. And the switch really should be labeled so.

Do you think there's a chance you might get it corrected sometime in the decades to come?
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Old 12-16-2011, 05:56 AM   #31
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The furnace should be on its own circuit, not shared with anything else. And it should have a switch mounted on/near the furnace that only turns power on/off to the furnace. And the switch really should be labeled so.

Do you think there's a chance you might get it corrected sometime in the decades to come?
Actually it is correct -- except for the label. I thought the light was on the same circuit but it isn't. The light works off its pull string. The only problem with the switch is where it is mounted: right where a light switch would be mounted inside the door of the furnace room. I put duck tape over it (easy to defeat) so I won't accidentally flip it again.
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:05 AM   #32
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Actually it is correct -- except for the label. I thought the light was on the same circuit but it isn't. The light works off its pull string. The only problem with the switch is where it is mounted: right where a light switch would be mounted inside the door of the furnace room. I put duck tape over it (easy to defeat) so I won't accidentally flip it again.
Around here the furnace switch is usually mounted about 5-6' high so it isn't confused with a light switch. Can you move it up or is it on a finished wall?
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:22 AM   #33
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Around here the furnace switch is usually mounted about 5-6' high so it isn't confused with a light switch. Can you move it up or is it on a finished wall?
It is inside a small room in my basement that houses only the furnace and hot water heater so I am not worried about it.
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:00 AM   #34
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Actually it is correct -- except for the label. I thought the light was on the same circuit but it isn't.

...

I put duck tape over it (easy to defeat) so I won't accidentally flip it again.
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Around here the furnace switch is usually mounted about 5-6' high so it isn't confused with a light switch. Can you move it up or is it on a finished wall?
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It is inside a small room in my basement that houses only the furnace and hot water heater so I am not worried about it.
In this case, I think duct tape over the switch is the PERFECT answer. No need to make a mountain out of a mole-hill.

I'd probably also add a note, but that's it. Use duct tape to hold the note

For ~ $1, you can get a little thing that fits over the switch to avoid accidental switching, but flips out of the way when you want. That would be a bit classier, and not break the LBYM budget

-ERD50
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