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Old 03-15-2011, 09:10 AM   #21
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I think something is wrong with your water heater.
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:25 AM   #22
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I think something is wrong with your water heater.
No, definitely its the lawyers
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:38 AM   #23
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It's a Rinnai tankless. It states in the manual that it will automatically reset to a lower temp after a power outage. It's cold in the bathroom because it's farthest from the wood stove, and I can't justify heating up for the few minutes I'm not in the shower. And let's see, was there some other issue that was mentioned? I forget.
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:03 AM   #24
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OK, you may be sorta right. As far as I can tell, after large number of scalding injuries water heater manufacturers reduced their preset temps to 120 degrees. Apparently with your heater it returns to the preset after a power outage. That is a different issue, not a liability issue. It doesn't look like tanked water heaters return to a preset temp when the power is out.

Interestingly, when reading about this (not much, just an internet sampling) some say that the lower preset temps on water heater tanks result in risks of bacterial growth and you need to be up over 130 degrees to get past that issue. Of course, that is not an issue for the tankless heater.

So even just using the hot water faucet doesn't give you a high enough temp? If the preset is 120 degrees you would think that you would get hot enough water. What is the actual temperature of the water coming out of the faucet? Or is the preset less than 120?
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:19 AM   #25
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I have not used a tankless heater, but the loss of the preset temperature is interesting. With the old-style heaters, the temperature is set mechanically; it cannot be lost with a power outage.

It appears that the new heaters are controlled electronically. Could it be that the loss of the setting is due to the manufacturer being too cheap to put in a non-volatile memory to store the data? Hence, on power up, they have to default to the lowest temperature setting.

PS. The tanked heater in my boonies home does have an electronic control module. However, its temperature is set with a knob (a potentiometer for geeky types, which is read by the controller), and this setting cannot be "lost" with power outages.
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:53 PM   #26
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It's a Rinnai tankless. It states in the manual that it will automatically reset to a lower temp after a power outage. It's cold in the bathroom because it's farthest from the wood stove, and I can't justify heating up for the few minutes I'm not in the shower. And let's see, was there some other issue that was mentioned? I forget.
I'm pretty cheap, er, uh, frugal, Al, but when it involves cold, wet, and naked, I run a small heater in the room while showering...

And, btw, this thread is useless without pics...
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:19 PM   #27
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OK, you may be sorta right. As far as I can tell, after large number of scalding injuries water heater manufacturers reduced their preset temps to 120 degrees.What is the actual temperature of the water coming out of the faucet? Or is the preset less than 120?
After a power outage it resets to 108 degrees. I usually have it set to the maximum of 120 degrees. The max is 120 instead of 135 because the installer saved himself some money by installing a bathroom controller rather than a main controller. I'd have to spend about $130 to get a new controller.

120 degrees works OK. With the low flow showerhead, the temp in the shower is 111 degrees. My theory is that the lower flow keeps the unit from running full tilt, but it doesn't make sense. If I turn on another faucet, the water gets hotter in the shower.

But that's hot enough for me, and too hot for Lena. The kitchen faucet gets the full 120. I'd prefer to run the dishwasher at 130, so someday I may get a new controller.

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Old 03-15-2011, 04:42 PM   #28
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I look at maybe one in fifty threads, but your title pulled me into this one. Thanks for the warning. If I switch to a tankless, I'll look out for this problem.
BTW the lawyers would want you to walk carefully, not run, and be fully robed in order to avoid lawsuits for overexposure.
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:08 PM   #29
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The kitchen faucet gets the full 120. I'd prefer to run the dishwasher at 130, so someday I may get a new controller.
Unless the dishwasher is you & Lena, your appliance may already have a heater installed in it to get the water up to temp.

But of course that uses electricity instead of gas and might drive up the cost a tad.

Our solar water tank spends most of the year between 140-155 degrees, and I have a mixing valve limiting the house hot water to ~138 degrees. Despite legions of lawyers alert for my liability safety, somehow we've managed to raise a family and host plenty of guests over the last decade without anyone parboiling themselves.
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:57 PM   #30
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After a power outage it resets to 108 degrees. I usually have it set to the maximum of 120 degrees. The max is 120 instead of 135 because the installer saved himself some money by installing a bathroom controller rather than a main controller. I'd have to spend about $130 to get a new controller.
Ah. An engineering problem not a legal problem. Would bringing up the maximum to 135 bring up reset to 123?
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:03 PM   #31
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If I turn on another faucet, the water gets hotter in the shower.

Ahh, another reason for me to not get a tankless heater. One of the greatest things ever about my painful bathroom remodeling was getting the 'new' pressure regulated valves in the showers. Finally, no hot/cold surges from others running a faucet, doing dishes, flushing a toilet. What relief! I wouldn't give that up for, heck, I dunno, I just wouldn't.

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Old 03-15-2011, 09:33 PM   #32
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After a power outage it resets to 108 degrees. I usually have it set to the maximum of 120 degrees. The max is 120 instead of 135 because the installer saved himself some money by installing a bathroom controller rather than a main controller. I'd have to spend about $130 to get a new controller.

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The truth comes out ! Pay the $130 or continue to run naked !
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:28 AM   #33
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The truth comes out ! Pay the $130 or continue to run naked !
Perhaps he might miss this opportunity?

Ha
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:16 AM   #34
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Can you plug the controller into an old UPS? I'm assuming it is a gas heater.

A UPS might not provide enough electrical power for a shower.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:06 AM   #35
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Hopefully when you see the clocks blinking and you know you have had an interruption in power, you routinely reset the hot water heater temperature along with the time displayed by your clocks. (If your clocks don't blink at every power outage, buy the cheapest digital clock you can find and it will gladly oblige.)

We'd hate for Lena to see you running and frolicking about the house and garage all soapy, wet, naked, and slippery like that. She might get ideas.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:09 AM   #36
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My guess is that if both the water and the garage are cold he won't be perceived as much of a threat (sorry T-al...)


We have a tankless Rheem with the remote control mounted on a wall outside one of the bathrooms. One of the challenges of living out in the country is regular brownouts / power outages. It takes about 30 seconds for the generator to come on when a power outage occurs. We've never had issues with the thermostat resetting. The remote control does have a battery in it. We've had this tankless water heater for a couple of years and have been pleased with it.
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:10 AM   #37
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The remote control does have a battery in it.
...not if you're practicing extreme LBYM.
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Old 03-17-2011, 06:58 PM   #38
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...not if you're practicing extreme LBYM.
I want to go on record that true blood Texicans are not opposed to running butt-nekid in just about any situation and any temperature. We are a hardy breed.
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Old 03-17-2011, 07:01 PM   #39
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I want to go on record that true blood Texicans are not opposed to running butt-nekid in just about any situation and any temperature. We are a hardy breed.
OK, then I'll go on record by quoting FinanceDude:

"This thread is USELESS without pictures"

Game on....

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Old 03-17-2011, 07:06 PM   #40
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108 degrees should feel plenty warm for a shower.

If you have a one-handle temperature control on your shower, there is a stop that is usually adjusted to prevent you from getting 100% hot water. On my Delta faucets, it's a plastic ring that you can move around. On the Kohlers I've seen, I think it's adjusted with an allen wrench. Might be worth looking into...

I set mine to allow full hot when I moved into this house, since I have no small children, keep the electric water heater around 120-125 degrees, but need full flow hot water towards the end of my shower if it's cold outside.
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