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Old 08-13-2019, 10:30 PM   #41
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As a couple of old people, requiring very little clothing (shorts and a top plus underwear) our sheets and towels are the bulk of our one or two loads a week. I probably overdo on the detergent, but can't recall the last time we had to buy a new jug of the stuff. Sorry, but we just don't worry too much about it. YMMV
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:17 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Sue J View Post
DH bought a new container of Arm and Hammer laundry detergent. It has a new style cap. The markings are on the inside of the cap. Itís almost impossible to see the markings for how much to use! And this new cap is opaque so I canít mark the outside with a line to show the level to use. Itís just 2 of us here so we tend to use the minimum amount. Just dumb that the cap is so hard to use to measure.


THIS. Good item for pet peeve list. Good and awful packaging design is a thing for me.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:27 AM   #43
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As I retired we were in middle of ~$60 million worth of wastewater plant improvements. To meet new phosphorus and nitrogen limits. There's a reason phosphorus was removed from detergents; people don't like things like green lakes and dead zones in oceans. Most of it comes from ag, but doesn't stop regulations on dischargers. And not only is there a cost to the improvements, the energy requirements to meet N and P standards are substantial. My clothes and dishes are fine as is.
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Old 08-16-2019, 08:21 AM   #44
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We use Tide detergent. I didn't realize that it comes in a bunch of different varieties until earlier this week when I bought some. It turns out my wife has been coy with me because she likes the scented kind and even dryer sheets. I don't use dryer sheets at all because I hate them.

Anyways, I bought Tide in the white bottle, unscented, un-dyed, and a clear every-so-light-blue cap, so one can see how much one might be using if one chooses to look.

I wash all my clothes in hot water. This has prevented any stink in bike jerseys and sports clothes (usually polyester & nylon) for decades. I don't "save up" clothes to get one big load, so I am happy to use water levels of low and medium, too.

After a day of digging in the yard to find a water leak my clothes were covered in dirt. I thought they would never get clean, but hot water and Tide got all the dirt out. I was totally surprised.

But the sad news: The water leak was not from my sprinkler system. It is in the trunk line from the main into our house in the area of an underground electric cable. I have to call someone to get it fixed.
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Old 08-16-2019, 09:34 AM   #45
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We use the scented liquid Tide HE stuff. I tried a load with just 2 tablespoons which is probably about half of what I've normally used. Seemed to come out just fine.
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Old 08-16-2019, 10:28 AM   #46
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We have a conventional top loader and use original, unscented Tide powder. I first decide how much water I want based on the load size (usually one of the smaller settings). I let the water fill up and when the machine starts, I add a very small amount of detergent and observe it mixing with the water. If needed, I add a little more and observe again until I get exactly the level of "soapiness" in the water that I want for the particular load (amount of soil, type of clothes, etc). Then I add the clothes.

I've been doing this for a long time, so I just know from experience how the water should look for a given type of load. I've never even looked at instructions on the box and I'm not the type to just throw in a pod or two.
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Old 08-16-2019, 10:32 AM   #47
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True LBYMers use a bar of Fels Naptha and the flaming wash board.

https://youtu.be/VPM52w4mC3g
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Old 08-16-2019, 11:46 AM   #48
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True LBYMers use a bar of Fels Naptha and the flaming wash board.

https://youtu.be/VPM52w4mC3g
I'm not trying to save money on this. Mostly it is just for precision and environmental concerns. I usually just want to find an easy rule to live by and go with it. Granted starting a thread on this is a bit over the top.
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Old 08-16-2019, 12:58 PM   #49
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I'm not trying to save money on this. Mostly it is just for precision and environmental concerns. I usually just want to find an easy rule to live by and go with it. Granted starting a thread on this is a bit over the top.
In that case, I fill it to the line in the cap.
I use All unscented as that's what CostCo had on sale last two times. Rotate some Arm and Hammer in to get the gym clothes unstinked.
DD swears by Tide for her expensive clothes.
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Old 08-16-2019, 09:06 PM   #50
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Many years ago, TSP, trisodium phosphate, was removed from laundry detergent. Since then, the detergent just doesn't get rinsed from clothes nearly as well. TSP holds dirt in suspension so it can be rinsed away. You can add TSP into your wash, 2tsp to 1/4 cup, and you will notice a difference. Especially with whites. It was removed because it is a sort of fertilizer that causes algae to grow in water. If your water is run off to lakes and streams, that matters. If it goes to a water treatment plant, not so much. If you are on a septic system, it doesn't matter one way or the other.

Lots to read about TSP and laundry detergent if you are interested.

Also, TSP was taken out of dishwashing detergent for same reasons. The main result is that glass gets a milky look to them after a while. It's told that is hard water, but it's just soap not getting rinsed well enough because too much soap is used because TSP was taken off the market in those products. Add 1 tsp to your dishwasher per load and within a few loads, your glasses will once again sparkle and look clear. TSP is available at just about any store that carries cleaning supplies. I get mine from Home Depot, but it's available at Walmart, Amazon, etc. A 1 pound box lasts me about a year or so. Since using it, I now have CLEAN clothes, use a lot less water and detergent to get those clothes clean as well. I also have clean dishes that sparkle. Cheers!
Interesting, I thought STPP was removed from clothes and dish detergents. Now I have more researching to do...
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Old 08-27-2019, 08:14 PM   #51
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Like someone above said - Tide or Kirkland pods.
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Old 08-27-2019, 08:46 PM   #52
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"Biodegradable" is not a very useful term, IMO, more marketing than science. What does the substance biodegrade into?
just means that when environmental bacteria are done with it you wonít find its remains. Like decomposing flesh.
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Old 08-27-2019, 11:14 PM   #53
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I use pods, either kirkland, tide or I just purchased some Persil to see if it really was better. Personally can't tell a whole lot of difference between all 3, but I use 1 pod for regular to small loads and I'll use 2 pods for completely full loads in the LG front loader (like 10 bath towels I guess they are called bath sheets b/c they are bigger than bath towels)
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Old 08-28-2019, 04:34 AM   #54
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I read something once about the suggested amounts of detergent was the amount you need for a full load of heavily soiled stuff. They suggested you don't even get it out of clothing during the rinses.

We had a top loader and I put in a load of clothing with no detergent at all. Midway through the first wash cycle I opened it and the water was sudsy. Cut way back ever since.
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Old 08-28-2019, 06:31 AM   #55
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FYI, there's no relationship between suds amount & cleaning efficacy.
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Old 08-28-2019, 06:53 AM   #56
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We buy those "expensive" tide pods in bulk at Sam's Club. Prior to this we had always used liquid detergent. We never really realized, but we must have been way over-soaping the loads because even though the tide pods are more expensive per load compared to the liquid (as per number of loads advertised on the bottle), our total cost has dropped in half. Toss a pod in and forget about it. No worries about under or over soaping.
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Old 08-28-2019, 07:03 AM   #57
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I use laundry pods. My washer is on a stand and getting detergent into the dispenser tends to be a messy inconvenience.
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Old 09-02-2019, 07:09 AM   #58
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My washing machine has rust inside it somewhere and it turns white clothes an awful grey and brown color after 3 washes, even if I add bleach. Any miracle substance to use to prevent this? Getting rid of the rust in the machine would be a PITA, but of course is an option too. Easier to add an ounce of "ACME Rust Kill" with every load. But seriously, is there anything?
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Old 09-02-2019, 07:13 AM   #59
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My washing machine has rust inside it somewhere and it turns white clothes an awful grey and brown color after 3 washes, even if I add bleach. Any miracle substance to use to prevent this? Getting rid of the rust in the machine would be a PITA, but of course is an option too. Easier to add an ounce of "ACME Rust Kill" with every load. But seriously, is there anything?
Throw it out
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Old 09-02-2019, 09:30 AM   #60
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I mentioned previously using TSP in the laundry to help clean. Another thing it does is that it bonds iron parts (the source of the rust is iron oxide FeO2) with the phosphate TSP contains. TSP stands for Tri-Sodium-Phosphate. The phosphate bonds with the iron to make Iron Phosphate FePO4. Once the iron is bound to the phosphate, it can no longer bond with the oxygen and hence, can not form rust. Normally this is done under electrolysis, but hopefully your machine has enough current running through it that this action can still take place at least on a small scale. As more loads are completed using TSP, more of the iron should react to the phosphate and the rust reduced. If you want to speed up the action, I can explain how to create electrolysis for you;
Fill the tub with water and a cup of TSP dissolved as deep as you need to make it so the rusted area is covered. Take a 12 volt battery charger, a simple 1amp charger will do, and attach the positive lead to the metal tub. Attach the negative lead to any metal rod, (I use a length of rebar) and suspend it into the water without it touching anything else. Turn on the charger. Some chargers won't start unless a battery is connected, so you may have to do that, but the battery only needs attaching for a few seconds to trick the charger. You will notice tiny bubbles forming on the rod. They are also forming on the tub where ever bare metal is exposed. The bubbles on the rod are oxygen and the bubbles on the tub are hydrogen. (Water is 2 parts hydrogen and one part oxygen. The current running through the water separate them into their gasses) Keep the lid open and the room vented as oxygen and hydrogen are potentially explosive gasses. (Meaning; they can ignite if they build up into concentrated levels) This process may take 24 hours or so, but it will remove the rust and coat the metal with iron phosphate. This coating will never wear out. Works great on rusty gas tanks that I've used this process on many times.
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