How to smooth a spray-painted surface?

[omni550]

I bought this inexpensive IKEA table to use in my eat-in kitchen: DOCKSTA Table - IKEA

To improve the looks of the cheap base (and to complement the all-white kitchen), I spray-painted the base with flat white enamel Rustoleum paint before assembling the table.

Now that I've been using it for a few weeks, I'm discovering that the spray-painted surface is a bit rough. Dust and hair catch on the paint and are very difficult to wipe off.

To create a smoother surface, I'm thinking that sanding the surface of the base with an ultra-fine sandpaper might be a solution, but I'm concerned about rubbing right through the thin veneer of white paint that I applied (and having it look terrible). An added concern are the contours of the base (which will add complexity if sanding).

Any suggestions on how to create a smooth surface at this stage?

omni

 

[Senator]

The only way I know is to sand it. Then, if you have to apply more paint, it will look like new.

 

[jazz4cash]

Wet-sand it and/or topcoat with clear coat spray.


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[Texas Proud]

I would not have thought about the last suggestion, but reading it, it makes perfect sense....


The problem you have is that you used a paint that is not designed to be smooth and there is probably nothing you can do with it... covering with clear coat that is smooth will probably work... however, be prepared in that all you might do is make the rough surface look shiny.... it might not dry smooth with a rough base....

 

[Senator]

spray-painted the base with flat white enamel Rustoleum paint

After re-reading, I see you used flat paint. It needs to be a glossy paint. Flat paint will always gather more dirt than gloss. And gloss paint can be wiped down. I am wondering why you painted a piece of furniture white, when it looks like it comes in white...

You may not need to re-sand, just get it smooth and clean. Just wipe the painted surface down, and re-paint. Maybe a scrub brush or wire brush to get it smooth and get rid of any debris on the furniture.

The original coat of flat was not a bad idea, as flat paint covers better than gloss. It does need a coat or two of gloss as a final coat.

In my first comment, I thought that a bunch of dust settled on it when the paint was wet.

 

[HFWR]

Getting a good finish is the hardest part of any woodworking project, IMHO...

Very fine sandpaper (400?) or 00 steel wool, with a light touch, then a coat (or two or three) of gloss or clearcoat seems like a good tactic.

 

[Cobra9777]

I just refinished an old rocker. DW wanted it painted white. I used semi-gloss Rustoleum spray paint. Put on 4 light coats, allowing it to dry 24 hours between coats. After the last coat had fully cured (2-3 days), I rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool (very fine). The surfaces are now smooth as glass and it looks great.

 

[Walt34]

When I was building model airplanes the tactic was to wet-sand with 600 paper and spray two coats of gloss paint, sand that, and then a coat or two of clear, sanding between coats. That produces a very smooth and shiny surface.

You might get away with just steel wool and a gloss paint (depends on how fussy you are) but if you're not happy with the result then you'll have to sand anyway so I'd go that route from the start.

 

[Ronstar]

Omni - I use a 600 grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool for sanding painted projects - between coats but never on the final coat. In your case, I'd sand and then add another coat of paint or a flat lacquer. It's tough to get a good looking finish when the final step is sanding. The sandpaper/steel wool usually dulls the painted surface unevenly. But if the surface is sanded prior to the final coat, then the final coat should end up smooth.

 

[omni550]

Senator - the "factory finish" on the table base was a tiny bit off-white and had the slightest occasional surface imperfections. I thought the flat enamel would cover and hide the imperfections better than gloss. And the white color would give me a bright white finish. And it did that, but gave me a non-smooth finish.

I've never done much spray painting or other fine surface finishing work.

My takeaway, I need to use fine grit sandpaper (400-600) or 0000 steel wool, lightly. Unclear as to whether wet is better than dry. Then follow-up with --- some here say clear coat and some here say white gloss. I'm thinking I might need to do the sanding first and see where that leaves me. If I end up sanding through the white paint in spots, I'll definitely need to touch that up before I can even think of a clear coat.

Question on clear coat...Is it less susceptible to leaving a rough micro- finish than the white paint OR are they both about the same?

Thanks, all,

omni

 

[ERD50]

Senator - the "factory finish" on the table base was a tiny bit off-white and had the slightest occasional surface imperfections. I thought the flat enamel would cover and hide the imperfections better than gloss. And the white color would give me a bright white finish. And it did that, but gave me a non-smooth finish.

I've never done much spray painting or other fine surface finishing work.

My takeaway, I need to use fine grit sandpaper (400-600) or 0000 steel wool, lightly. Unclear as to whether wet is better than dry. Then follow-up with --- some here say clear coat and some here say white gloss. I'm thinking I might need to do the sanding first and see where that leaves me. If I end up sanding through the white paint in spots, I'll definitely need to touch that up before I can even think of a clear coat.

Question on clear coat...Is it less susceptible to leaving a rough micro- finish than the white paint OR are they both about the same?

Thanks, all,

omni

Wet sanding helps to keep the sandpaper from clogging, I think it's easier to get an even, light sanding with the water. Some even add a drop of detergent.

One thing I've noticed with spray paint - if you are giving it the very light coats that help to avoid runs, it might actually be a little dried as it hits the surface. So instead of a liquid surface all pooling together smoothly, you might get something a little more like semi-dry grains of paint sticking together with semi-rough edges. This either needs to be sanded and/or coated with a smoother coat(as others suggested).

-ERD50

 

[Walt34]

Senator - the "factory finish" on the table base was a tiny bit off-white and had the slightest occasional surface imperfections.

All paint does is change color. Never expect it to hide imperfections. You have to take care of those first with filler and sanding, preferably with a sanding block. That's why surface preparation is so important.

 

[bjorn2bwild]

Senator - the "factory finish" on the table base was a tiny bit off-white and had the slightest occasional surface imperfections. I thought the flat enamel would cover and hide the imperfections better than gloss. And the white color would give me a bright white finish. And it did that, but gave me a non-smooth finish.

I've never done much spray painting or other fine surface finishing work.

My takeaway, I need to use fine grit sandpaper (400-600) or 0000 steel wool, lightly. Unclear as to whether wet is better than dry. Then follow-up with --- some here say clear coat and some here say white gloss. I'm thinking I might need to do the sanding first and see where that leaves me. If I end up sanding through the white paint in spots, I'll definitely need to touch that up before I can even think of a clear coat.

Question on clear coat...Is it less susceptible to leaving a rough micro- finish than the white paint OR are they both about the same?

Thanks, all,

omni

In addition to what others have posted.
A quick painting primer - Spray enamel (as opposed to laquer) is thicker, slower drying and designed to self level. Among other qualities, flat finish enamel will be faster drying, giving less time to self level. If you want a smooth finish, gloss finish is a better choice.
At this point the best option is to wet sand smooth with 400/360gr wet/dry paper. Wet sanding is more efficient - the soft paint will not accumulate and clog the paper. The method - dip the w/d paper in a small container of water and sand, making sure to keep the working area wet. Wipe off the residue with a damp cloth. The finished surface should be smooth and dust-free.
To paint with spray enamel (there are special paints designed for plastic) - 1st spray a light ‘tack’ coat, then follow immediately with a full cover coat - this is tricky, you want to use enough paint to allow the self-leveling, but not so much as to cause the paint to sag (run). I think a clear-coat final finish would be overkill for this project. JMHO

 

[jazz4cash]

Clear coat would generally be same as gloss or semi gloss paint in terms of micro finish. They make several levels of sheen now. Higher gloss equals smoother surface.


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[omni550]

Thanks for the detailed information on what to do (and why).

It'll be a few weeks before I can get back to this project due to an upcoming cruise and then hosting family visiting from Europe.

I'll report back on how the table base turns out.

Love the helpful folks on this forum. I learn so much here.

omni

 

[HFWR]

Clear coat would generally be same as gloss or semi gloss paint in terms of micro finish. They make several levels of sheen now. Higher gloss equals smoother surface.


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And a slightly harder surface as well...

 

[bjorn2bwild]

A tip on staging for a re-spray - mounting the base horizontally, say through a piece of PVC pipe atop a couple of weighted cardboard boxes, will greatly improve the odds of a good job. And if a sag should develop, gravity is at your command.
Edit - I see the base and pedestal can separate, this advice would only apply to the pedestal if it will be painted.