Ideas for Cutting Desk Part

That's nice, but not necessary, because the laptop is totally stable when overhanging the front edge of the desk.
I think I was just being OCD about having everything line up.
What a relief.

I could imagine 125 years from now watching the grandkids of the "Antiques Roadshow" furniture twins telling some disappointed grandkid of Jenny: "Well, it would have been worth three billion yuan at auction if some OCD DIY'er cheapskate hadn't cut out these partitions!"
 
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The new laptop sticks out even more, and I CAN'T TAKE IT ANYMORE. It works, but I think I'll remove the dividers.

This isn't an antique desk, and I can't imagine I'll ever use without a laptop on it.
 
I woke up at 4 AM with the solution: I cut out the existing dividers, then buy some nice oak-faced plywood of the same width, and built and install new dividers with a different profile. The new divider will fit in the slots on the bottom, and I'll cut spacers to install on the top (out of sight).
 
I woke up at 4 AM with the solution: I cut out the existing dividers, then buy some nice oak-faced plywood of the same width, and built and install new dividers with a different profile. The new divider will fit in the slots on the bottom, and I'll cut spacers to install on the top (out of sight).

...
Or maybe a somewhat 'hack job' is the best approach, and then just plan on a wooden insert to cover the mess?

-ERD50

Sounds similar to my first suggestion? ;)

SUGGESTION: If you want to put in new dividers, consider solid wood instead of plywood. Plywood is very tricky to cut w/o splintering, and you will need to face the edges anyhow. Solid will be less work.

-ERD50
 
You could always get an external monitor, put it on top of the desk and hook up the laptop. ...
I'd first try the "inexpensive" route of getting an external wireless keyboard/mouse set, and place the laptop where I can see its screen.
 
I'd first try the "inexpensive" route of getting an external wireless keyboard/mouse set, and place the laptop where I can see its screen.

The only place the screen could go is up on top of the rolltop part; that would be way too high, and I'm sure I would get neck strain.

This saw will let me cut the bottom of the dividers flush, and I could then rerashion and reinstall them.

Shark Corp 10-2440 Fine Cut Saw - Handsaws - Amazon.com
 
The only place the screen could go is up on top of the rolltop part; that would be way too high, and I'm sure I would get neck strain.

This saw will let me cut the bottom of the dividers flush, and I could then rerashion and reinstall them.

Shark Corp 10-2440 Fine Cut Saw - Handsaws - Amazon.com

The key for what you want to do is the 'flush cut' saw. On these, the 'kerf' (spread of the teeth) go all to one side, leaving the other side smooth - no scratching on that side. A regular saw has the teeth alternately spread out one side and then the other.

But that looks like a lot of cutting in a tight space. Are you sure cutting the bottom side only will let you remove the divider? Can you cut all the way through from front to back on seven (eight?) dividers?

-ERD50
 
What about line of sight? Will you be able to see the top of your screen when you push the notebook in?
 
I'll fall in line with the others that have advised not to cut the dividers. But please post photos after you do and have "fixed" the desk to your liking.
 
The key for what you want to do is the 'flush cut' saw. On these, the 'kerf' (spread of the teeth) go all to one side, leaving the other side smooth - no scratching on that side. A regular saw has the teeth alternately spread out one side and then the other.

You're right, thanks. I'm attempting to cancel my Amazon order. I saw a flush cut saw at the hardware store, and thought that the one on Amazon was the same.

But that looks like a lot of cutting in a tight space. Are you sure cutting the bottom side only will let you remove the divider? Can you cut all the way through from front to back on seven (eight?) dividers?

-ERD50

I'm going to approach this as if I were trying to saw my way through the bars of my cell with a spoon. It will require some patience.

What about line of sight? Will you be able to see the top of your screen when you push the notebook in?
Yes, I checked that. It can go a ways back before the top is cut off from sight.

One of the things that was the final straw was that I noticed how the image shows much more contrast when it's tilted way back. You'd think that the best viewing occurs when the line from the center of the screen to your eye is normal to the plane of the screen. But it seems better if your eye is a bit below that. That discovery pushed the laptop out even further.
 
Enjoy fine wood articles, not a wood guy hobby wise....

How are the dividers secured? In a slot? Glue, staple, nail, combo?
Remove staple, use hair dryer to loosen glue?
 
It looks like the dividers are sitting in slots. Do they move a little? If so, I'd be tempted to pry the bottom shelf down a bit, and see if the dividers can be pulled out.
 
You're right, thanks. I'm attempting to cancel my Amazon order. I saw a flush cut saw at the hardware store, and thought that the one on Amazon was the same. ....

It wasn't 100% clear to me whether that one was a flush cut or not. It looks like a regular kerf, pull-saw (and people sure seem to like it, I may get one just 'because').

Seems the flush cut saws I've seen (say that 10x fast!) will have an offset handle, to accommodate space for your hand and the wood you are cutting. But maybe they rely on the flex for that?

-ERD50
 
Seriously, buy an oscillating tool like the Rockwell sonicrafter. It is perfect for precision cuts in awkward spaces like this. I have found literally dozens of uses for mine since I bought it.
 
It looks like the dividers are sitting in slots. Do they move a little? If so, I'd be tempted to pry the bottom shelf down a bit, and see if the dividers can be pulled out.

Good idea, but the shelf is too sturdy to be pried down.

It wasn't 100% clear to me whether that one was a flush cut or not.

Right. I asked on Amazon and got different answers.

Seriously, buy an oscillating tool like the Rockwell sonicrafter. It is perfect for precision cuts in awkward spaces like this. I have found literally dozens of uses for mine since I bought it.

Oh that's looks good. Tell me some of the other things you've used it for.
 
Oh that's looks good. Tell me some of the other things you've used it for.

Off the top of my head:
1. Cut out cracked section of PVC sprinkler line
2. Cut nails behind baseboards that can't be pried out
3. Make precision cuts in drywall, for patching sections around outlet boxes
4. Cut notches out of doorway header to run cabling
5. Scrape caulk off concrete floor
6. Sand into corners with triangle shaped sanding pad
 
Well, I'm sold, thanks.

But what is the total vertical distance from the bottom of the blade to the top of the unit? It would have to be less than five inches ...
 
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I'd say lower your chair and pull your screen down a little:)
 
Look for Undercut and Jamb Saw. Homedepot has a 17" model. I'd get the largest that will fit. You'll need the length to make cut easier. Once you get one or two dividers out, one of the power tools mentioned will fit in the space, hopefully.
 
This is the distance that is critical:

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I called Rockwell, but the guy had a hard time understanding which distance I was talking about. I would explain, and he would say "Well, if you hold the tool horizontally, the width is ..."

I'll take a look at those other tools.
 
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Nice tool, but the Harbor Freight version would probably be more than fine for occasional use.

+1

Yes, I have one. Its "height" measures 3.5".

PS. Oops. Add another 0.5" perhaps for the blade offset (the height between the blade cutting plane to the blade mounting shaft).
 
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Thanks.

The old dilemma: is the possibly higher quality version worth the extra cost?

Note that the HF one doesn't come with any blades or attachments.

I'd also like to reward Rockwell for accepting blades from other manufacturers. That's rare these days.
 
Maybe you will get lucky and find a roadside desk, Al, that will work without any alteration.
 
As I am not a carpenter, for tools like this that I only use once every 5 blue moons, the lower cost (1/2 to 1/3) trumps other factors. Yes, you will need to spend another $9 for a blade set.
 
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