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Old 06-11-2016, 01:03 PM   #21
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The key only turns about half-way. There is no starter response at all - not even a click. To me, there's no feeling of anything being engaged. But Mr. A. says the key has never turned more than it does now. Everything else (brake, choke, PTO knob) is in manual-correct position

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Additional thoughts - while you state that the "the key would barely turn" are you really saying that when you turn the key that the engine is barely turning over (i.e. the physical key itself turns no problem)? These older Deere's are well known for developing starting problems, and there's a "Fix" available to improve the current flow to the starter solenoid (what will engage the starter and turn the engine over). Refer to this link - http://www.greenpartstore.com/assets...structions.pdf

I installed this kit on my tractor years ago when it started having difficulties starting, often just clicking and not engaging the starter. Fixed the problem and haven't has a problem with it since.
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Old 06-11-2016, 08:51 PM   #22
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They yellow button by the steering wheel , is that for starting and stopping the blades?
My tractor has one like that. I have to have that button pushed in (to stop the blades) and foot on the brake then turn the ignition key with the choke out.
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Old 06-12-2016, 09:49 AM   #23
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That's called the PTO button and needs to be in for the tractor to start.

We're doing everything according to the manual instructions, so it's something wrong inside the machine.

There is no mention of a fuse box in the manual, nor could I find one under the hood. So we've ruled that out.

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They yellow button by the steering wheel , is that for starting and stopping the blades?
My tractor has one like that. I have to have that button pushed in (to stop the blades) and foot on the brake then turn the ignition key with the choke out.
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Old 06-12-2016, 10:29 AM   #24
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Sometimes there is a fuse inline with the wire. I'm pretty sure it would need to have one.

They are easy to see, just search for "wire inline fuse" and you will see what I mean.
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Old 06-12-2016, 01:54 PM   #25
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Could also be a failed solenoid. Sometimes they still click after they fail, sometimes they don't. Any big box store or Ace Hardware will have them. Then it's just about a 10 minutes fix. There are several ways to check - If you have a DC tester..
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:13 PM   #26
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It's a farm implement. Have you tried hitting it with a hammer?
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:19 PM   #27
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It's a farm implement. Have you tried hitting it with a hammer?
often works for me... Even when it doesn't work, I feel better.
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Old 06-12-2016, 10:44 PM   #28
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You should be able to do some quick voltage measurements. When the key is turned to "on" do you have +12v at the coil for the engine, or whatever the ignition is? In "start" do you have +12v going to the solenoid. You can jump the solenoid to see if the engine cranks over. With ignition on, that should start it.

Also, check all electrical connections, especially grounds. Electricity needs good conduction to work right.
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:15 AM   #29
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.......... Electricity needs good conduction to work right.
As does an orchestra.
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:00 AM   #30
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I kicked it. Didn't help.

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It's a farm implement. Have you tried hitting it with a hammer?
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:22 AM   #31
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I kicked it. Didn't help.
If that didn't work, it is definitely time for a new tractor.
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