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Old 05-21-2016, 07:18 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Music Lover View Post
If a repair doesn't work, mount a cheap motion sensor light inside the garage...or if you already have a motion light on the outside, simply connect another fixture from that to a light inside the garage.
Actually, that sounds like a better idea than buying the gizmo for smartphone operation of a light, like I had suggested. Maybe not as much fun , but cheaper and it wouldn't depend on wifi connectivity.
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Old 05-21-2016, 07:22 PM   #22
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Try one of these gadgets. Unlike a standard light bulb you can really torque this in place of the bulb then screw the bulb into the gadget.

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Old 05-21-2016, 07:33 PM   #23
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Are you sure the socket isn't replaceable?

How to replace the light socket

Quote:
To replace the light socket, follow the steps below.

1. Unplug the garage door opener.
2. If the opener has a back-up battery, unplug the battery.
3. Remove the end panel. (held on by two screws at the top and one or two screws at the bottom)
4. The wire harness for the light socket has 2 wires, one wire is orange, one wire is white. Unplug the two wires.
5. The light socket has a tab that secures the light socket to the end panel. Use a screw driver and press down on this tab to compress the tab. Requires a little force. Push the light socket out of the end panel.
6. Insert the new light socket in the end panel. Requires effort to push the tab in place.
7. Reconnect the orange and white wires to the back of the light socket.
8. Push the end panel back towards the motor head, replace the screws in the end panel.
9. Inside the light socket there are 2 copper tabs, one is on the side, one is on the bottom. Use a small screw driver to pull up the 2 copper tabs a little. (this ensures that the contacts are making good contact with the light bulb)
10. Replace the light bulb.
11. If this opener has a back-up battery, plug in the battery.
12. Plug in the garage door opener.
13. Press the door control or remote control.
When the opener is plugged in or when the motor runs, the light in the opener should turn on.
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Old 05-21-2016, 08:11 PM   #24
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Good ideas to improve the contact area for the bulb in previous posts so won't repeat. Might be worth doublechecking your entire opener and tracks to make sure something hasn't loosened causing more vibration than normal causing the bulbs to loosen.
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Old 05-22-2016, 06:47 AM   #25
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This article explains screw light sockets pretty well:

Light Bulbs | Ask the Builder

After you bend the tab, is it 20 degrees?

If the bulbs you are using are all from the same batch, they may all have same flaw. For example, the solder on bulb end might be too flat.

In the article it mentions that the light should come on before screwed tight. In a table lamp that is pretty easy to test, but in a garage door opener requires another step, like open the garage door.
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Old 05-22-2016, 08:00 AM   #26
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The issue is not the filament, for certain. The contact in the socket is not solid enough ( I think). There are two bulbs, and it has happened to both.

Very seldom do sockets go bad. The odds of two going bad on the same opener are astronomical. I am not an electrician, but I have worked with 100s or maybe even 1000s of fixtures. Maybe if the opener is 20+ years old?

Bending the tab out should work. Garage door opener light bulbs go bad at a high rate due to vibration. I always use appliance, ceiling fan, or garage door opener bulbs. CFLs are not the bulb to use. Maybe LED? But I would use incandescent.

If the bulb only works for a few hours before going bad again, and is still tight, try a new bulb. Or bulb type. Typically, if it had bad conductivity, it should still flicker. Test for proper voltage at the socket.

The contact inside the opener should have plenty of flex and should not flatten so far as to avoid contact. You can try and put a bit of ink on the bulb, screw it in, and see if you have an ink mark on the contact. Or a piece of tape.

You can put some dielectric grease on the contacts to improve conductivity after it has been cleaned.
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Old 05-22-2016, 08:48 AM   #27
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You can put some dielectric grease on the contacts to improve conductivity after it has been cleaned.
Dielectric grease is non-conductive and will keep out moisture (typically used in auto and marine applications on rubber boots over spark plugs, etc). Since the bulb/socket will mate pretty well and there will be pressure points, it should allow conductivity. A better choice is a conductive grease like DeoxIT M260:

http://www.amazon.com/DeoxITM260-Gre...ductive+grease
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Old 05-22-2016, 09:01 AM   #28
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I would go down the road of just replacing the socket. I don't see the point in involving all kinds of complex wiring methods such as adding motion lights, getting an app for your smart phone to turn on a light etc, when all that you want is to have your door opener light come on like it used to. Not to mention some of the horrific wiring I have seen done by do it yourselfers in these situations.

I have replaced hundred of sockets in ceiling fans, bathroom fan/light combos, range hood fans, door openers etc. All of the aforementioned have one thing in common, they all have motors creating vibration. The vibration causes the already poor connection on the back of the socket to come loose and open the circuit. I am betting that your problem isn't anything to do with the contact in the base of the socket that you have tried bending. It is more than likely the factory connection that are usually fastened using small rivets. By bending or moving the tab you just simply made the connection at the rivet again until it was able to vibrate loose again. Once you get it apart you may be able to simply compress the rivet better allowing a better connection. There is no need to complicate the situation and turn off the circuit breaker, just reach up and unplug the opener.

Home Depot or your local hardware store will have a general purpose replacement socket that you should be able to mount into the opener without to much hassle. If possible get a socket that has screws that attach the wires to the screw shell and the base electrode rather than rivets.


As far as what bulb to use, CFL's are the best option, LED would be my next choice followed by an incandescent. If you go the route of an incandescent get a rough service bulb. The rough service bulbs have a heavy duty filament that resist vibration.
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Old 05-22-2016, 09:10 AM   #29
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I would go down the road of just replacing the socket. I don't see the point in involving all kinds of complex wiring methods such as adding motion lights, getting an app for your smart phone to turn on a light etc, when all that you want is to have your door opener light come on like it used to. Not to mention some of the horrific wiring I have seen done by do it yourselfers in these situations.
Adding a motion light is not complex...it's a very simple task. However, those who lack the required knowledge should not attempt it on their own.
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Old 05-22-2016, 09:21 AM   #30
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Adding a motion light is not complex...it's a very simple task. However, those who lack the required knowledge should not attempt it on their own.
I know that it is not complex but we also do not know the OP's garage situation. If the walls and ceiling are all insulated and sheet rocked it complicates the issue. We also do not know anything about the wiring inside the garage. Depending on how it is wired it may not facilitate the easy addition of another light or control device.
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Old 05-22-2016, 09:42 AM   #31
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I know that it is not complex but we also do not know the OP's garage situation. If the walls and ceiling are all insulated and sheet rocked it complicates the issue. We also do not know anything about the wiring inside the garage. Depending on how it is wired it may not facilitate the easy addition of another light or control device.
In most cases an electrical outlet is situated right next to the garage opener where power for a light can be obtained. But, if there are access issues or someone doesn't feel comfortable with electrical, then another alternative may be better.
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Old 05-22-2016, 10:06 AM   #32
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We have the same problem, and tried many of the suggested fixes to no avail. I think the 100w bulb (in our case) generates too much heat in the enclosure and works it's way out over a few cycles (design defect).

We just leave the garage light on when we expect to return when it's dark out. Problem solved.

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Old 05-22-2016, 10:59 AM   #33
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Extend the time delay on your car headlights to turn off by another 30 to 60 seconds (if that is an option available on your car)
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Old 05-22-2016, 11:03 AM   #34
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Check out #4,5.

http://www.garagedoorrepairco.com/ga...ht-not-working
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Old 05-22-2016, 12:02 PM   #35
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I am impressed by the fire power directed at this problem by the forum members!

Will wait breathlessly for the OP's fix.
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Old 05-22-2016, 12:21 PM   #36
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I am impressed by the fire power directed at this problem by the forum members!

Will wait breathlessly for the OP's fix.
You can tell the market is doing relatively well when there is this much response to a garage door opener light bulb problem.
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Old 05-22-2016, 02:21 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lsbcal View Post
I am impressed by the fire power directed at this problem by the forum members!

Will wait breathlessly for the OP's fix.
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Originally Posted by travelover View Post
You can tell the market is doing relatively well when there is this much response to a garage door opener light bulb problem.
I am surprised, and appreciative. As for the fix, I'd say don't hold your breath.

I did, thanks. I think it is #3 and not a bad bulb or vibration problem. It has a motion activated circuit, so when that triggers (I hear the click) and there is no light if I just touch the bulb, or perhaps turn it a bit, it will light up. But the fix is temporary and short-lived. Putting in a new bulb makes no difference.

The socket itself looks like it is part of the plastic mold of the unit, and I'm not going to dismantle and open the motor to see if I can remove it from the inside.

I've wiped clean the contacts and pulled out the side one. I'll try a bit of sandpaper and see if the bottom contact can be pulled up. If that doesn't work, I think I'll look for another option that does not depend on the door opener. There are already two options in this thread.
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Old 05-22-2016, 02:30 PM   #38
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...I am betting that your problem isn't anything to do with the contact in the base of the socket that you have tried bending. It is more than likely the factory connection that are usually fastened using small rivets. By bending or moving the tab you just simply made the connection at the rivet again until it was able to vibrate loose again. Once you get it apart you may be able to simply compress the rivet better allowing a better connection...
+1

I mentioned this possibility in an earlier post, that the loose contact is not necessarily between the bulb and the socket.

I have solved this kind of problem in the past by running a solder joint over the chintzy rivet that they use. Of course, you have to dismantle the doggone thing to get access to that spot. However, I am the kind of guy who has to find the root cause and fix it once for all.

YMMV, but most people do not have the same MPG I do.
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Old 05-22-2016, 05:37 PM   #39
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Here is the "Mother of all Options": Install automated home light switches and a security system. Have a key fob for the security system so when you come home, you can hit the button on the key fob to disarm the security system. The security system is connected to the automated home system so when you disarm the system, the garage door is activated and goes up. Usually that would be sufficient because the light bulb in the door opener would go on. In your case, you would also need to program the automated home system to turn on whatever lights in the home work best for you when the garage door goes up. BTW, you could also program it to turn on your favorite music and have it say "Hi Michael" when you open the door into the house!
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Old 05-22-2016, 08:47 PM   #40
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Switch to gas lighting.
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