Most efficient clothes dryer setting? High/short or low/long?

[cute fuzzy bunny]

Just to simplify the conversation, heat exchangers generally cost about 500-1000 and require electronics to decide how to most efficiently operate. You'd also need to incorporate a humidistat to rationally decide to not open the exchanger for outside air exchange when it was not only 50 degrees outside, but also 95% humidity.

I think I'd rather buy the high efficiency front load high spin washer.

[Khan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cute fuzzy bunny Just to simplify the conversation, heat exchangers generally cost about 500-1000 and require electronics to decide how to most efficiently operate. You'd also need to incorporate a humidistat to rationally decide to not open the exchanger for outside air exchange when it was not only 50 degrees outside, but also 95% humidity. I think I'd rather buy the high efficiency front load high spin washer.

I'm thinking of getting such when the present washer dies (it's 16); what's a good brand?

Based on my limited research it's either ASKO or Staber.

[cute fuzzy bunny]

Pay close attention to any rebates from the manufacturer, the seller, the water and electric companies. We bought a $1000 Bosch unit on sale for $899. That was out of stock when they came to deliver it so they bumped us to the $1100 unit. By the way, an interesting strategy when a closeout happens on an appliance is to buy it from a reputable outfit like sears, lowes or home depot and then schedule the delivery for 10-15 days out. By that time, their crappy inventory control system would have allowed them to sell 5% more units than they actually have in stock and most of the time they'll bump you a notch to keep you from canceling.

We got $100 rebate from lowes, $100 rebate from Bosch, something like $100 or $150 from the water company and $75 or $100 from the electric company. So our $1000 washer cost us 400 and change. Many of the utility rebates have multiple tiers like tier 1 and tier 2 that give you better rebates for the higher efficiency units. Trick is to know what the tiers are, which models are in what, and then wait for a sale on the higher tier models that with rebate makes them cheaper than the lower tier models.

There are only a few companies actually making the front loaders, which are then rebranded and sold by many companies with minor changes in appearance and controls. There have been a few models like some early maytag neptunes and some kenmores that had major problems for a year or two and that infected the entire class of machines.

I'd pick based on size of the unit and price with rebates figured in. Size is sort of a red herring too. A puny front loader can handle a queen/king comforter with little trouble since theres no agitator taking up space. Although our 4.0 cubic foot models can take an entire weeks worth of laundry in one gulp.

[samclem]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick 24/7 loss? My vent has 2 dampers on it, eliminating both in- and ex-filtration unless the dryer is in operation.

I'll have to check my setup. In another house we used to have a plastic louvered model that was always getting jammed with lint and one louver or two would always be open. In this house we've got a simple galvanized vent hood, but I don't know if it has even got a damper in it.

How is yours set up, and are you happy with it? Lint can be a problem with these things.

[Patrick]

Quote:

Originally Posted by samclem How is yours set up, and are you happy with it? Lint can be a problem with these things.

I have an inline plastic damper box in the pipe indoors and a hood with a damper flap at the wall. So far no problems.