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Old 08-19-2013, 10:17 AM   #21
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The house is 2800 square feet (not counting the garage--which doesn't get the air conditioning). We got the 5 tonnage AC unit.
I have the same size house (2 story) as you do and replaced my AC last year. They installed a 4 ton unit. My house was built around the same as yours too, 1963. Only difference is location, I'm in the Chicago area. We get more humidity than you do in the summer. If the AC is coming out really cold, this unit is much more efficient than the old one and I would just raise the thermostat unit it got comfortable enough for you assuming there's nothing wrong w/the thermostat.
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Old 08-19-2013, 06:38 PM   #22
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2. The thermostat is fairly close to one vent.
That could be the problem right there. The thermostat reads the temperature in that one spot. Blow some cold air on it and it "thinks" the house temperature is below the setting and shuts the A/C off and you get that rapid cycling.

If that isn't it then I'd bet on the system being too large for your house.

It used to be - and this is 40-year-old information from when I did heating & A/C repair - that on an "average" hot day the system should run 70% of the time. That did a good job of running long enough to dehumidify the air as well as cool it.
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Old 08-20-2013, 11:42 AM   #23
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Let me try to respond to your helpful post:

1. The vents are where they have always been and they are not aiming directly at anyone.

2. The thermostat is fairly close to one vent.

3. It has not yet been really hot here, but the A/C does not do that short burst thing--it stays on for way longer than I want it to. We are getting very cold air for too long a period.

4. The vent shutters are pointed towards the ceiling.

5. I'm calling the HVAC guy this morning, to prepare him for his scheduled visit tomorrow.

6. Thanks.
I think Animorph provided some good guidance and based on your answers this sounds like a thermostat problem to me, but I am by no means an HVAC expert. Also, 5 tons for 2800 sq ft in a warm climate seems reasonable.
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:39 PM   #24
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I think you need to start a little chilled air farm and harvest and sell the excess.
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:54 PM   #25
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Put an accurate bulb thermometer inside one of the supply register outlets after removing the register. Let it stabilize after the AC has run several minutes and tell us how cold the discharge air is. How many minutes does it run before shutting off after reaching say a setpoint of 75 when it's been in the 90s or preferably if you had a day near 95?
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:01 PM   #26
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Put an accurate bulb thermometer inside one of the supply register outlets after removing the register. Let it stabilize after the AC has run several minutes and tell us how cold the discharge air is. How many minutes does it run before shutting off after reaching say a setpoint of 75 when it's been in the 90s or preferably if you had a day near 95?
Now, I don't have to do this until we have a day near 95 degrees, right?

Al, I want to thank you for the suggestion, but keep in mind you are talking to a guy who has watched every episode of Project Runway.
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:01 PM   #27
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5 tons for 2800 sf for a well insulated house can be too much. I can run a simple load calc for you if you want. You will need to o some legwork. I can run load more accurate than a contractor can, but I'm willing to run a quick single block load for you inputting your entire house as one big zone with four walls and roof. You would need to supply insulation values for walls and roof, sq footages of each wall direction, roof sf, basement type and total glass sf for each of four directions, plus glass type and of course your city.

Ps. In the meantime close the vent most of the way or entirely in the room where the thermostat is so it won't get short cycled by such rapid control feedback.
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:14 PM   #28
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5 tons for 2800 sf for a well insulated house can be too much. I can run a simple load calc for you if you want. You will need to o some legwork. I can run load more accurate than a contractor can, but I'm willing to run a quick single block load for you inputting your entire house as one big zone with four walls and roof. You would need to supply insulation values for walls and roof, sq footages of each wall direction, roof sf, basement type and total glass sf for each of four directions, plus glass type and of course your city.

Ps. In the meantime close the vent most of the way or entirely in the room where the thermostat is so it won't get short cycled by such rapid control feedback.
Actually, that's exactly the way I first approached the situation. And, it didn't take all that long. I could have done it even more quickly if I weren't flossing.
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:43 PM   #29
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[QUOTE=redduck;1350037]
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redduck,
In the previous thread on your AC system, a few people mentioned the high importance of actually performing a heat load computation. It's easy, you can do it yourself or have the contractor do it >and check their work<. So, how many BTUs did it turn out that your house requires? Does the BTU/tonnage of the installed AC unit match that?

RE: the BTU: the best I could find was PSI of 450. I'll get the BTU figure on Tues.

The house is 2800 square feet (not counting the garage--which doesn't get the air conditioning). We got the 5 tonnage AC unit.
There should be a sticker on the outside unit (or a metal plate) with details such as lra and rla (relating to power draw etc). Actually if you get the model number quite likley the btu is in the model number look for a number divisible by 6 such as 24,30,36,42,48,60 which means the number times 1000 btu/hour. One other thing to ask the man is the inside coil sized right compared to the outside unit?
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:37 PM   #30
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[QUOTE=meierlde;1351616]
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Originally Posted by redduck View Post

There should be a sticker on the outside unit (or a metal plate) with details such as lra and rla (relating to power draw etc). Actually if you get the model number quite likley the btu is in the model number look for a number divisible by 6 such as 24,30,36,42,48,60 which means the number times 1000 btu/hour. One other thing to ask the man is the inside coil sized right compared to the outside unit?
OK, found the sticker: LC42/60Y9CG
So, we have 42 and 60 both divisible by 6.

And, if it makes a difference, we have 95% efficiency.

And, a guy came out yesterday and did something to stop the air from streaming out so forcefully. (And to replace the thermostat that had a faulty digital display (it wouldn't display in the 80's--it made the 80's look like the 90's. (Didn't fool me for a second, well, maybe a second).

But, what do we have with the numbers on the sticker?
Thanks.

So, now the a/c seems to be working MUCH better than before. We are getting enough air throughout the house. It's still seems a little bit cold, but maybe some of that is us as we have two old people living here (me and not-really mrs. redduck). I guess air conditioning is supposed to make things cooler/colder.

The other good news is, the contractor seems responsive, possibly because COSTCO hasn't paid him yet. I have to sign off on some form before he gets paid. (I've already paid COSTCO).

I will ask the guy about the coils.
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:40 PM   #31
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You have a 3.5 ton unit.
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:44 PM   #32
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You have a 3.5 ton unit.
Only in my dreams.
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:47 PM   #33
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[QUOTE=redduck;1351637]
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Originally Posted by meierlde View Post

OK, found the sticker: LC42/60Y9CG
So, we have 42 and 60 both divisible by 6.

And, if it makes a difference, we have 95% efficiency.

And, a guy came out yesterday and did something to stop the air from streaming out so forcefully. (And to replace the thermostat that had a faulty digital display (it wouldn't display in the 80's--it made the 80's look like the 90's. (Didn't fool me for a second, well, maybe a second).

But, what do we have with the numbers on the sticker?
Thanks.

So, now the a/c seems to be working MUCH better than before. We are getting enough air throughout the house. It's still seems a little bit cold, but maybe some of that is us as we have two old people living here (me and not-really mrs. redduck). I guess air conditioning is supposed to make things cooler/colder.

The other good news is, the contractor seems responsive, possibly because COSTCO hasn't paid him yet. I have to sign off on some form before he gets paid. (I've already paid COSTCO).

I will ask the guy about the coils.
That is the number for the inside coil on the furnace: If you go to the outside unit, what model number is that? should be something like xc xx (for efficency) -042 for capacity-230 for 230 v ac (Us model). If the numbers are unmatched it could be a problem. xc is a lennox outside unit, xp would be a heat pump btw. The efficiency number range from 13 to 25 depending on roughly the SEER of the unit (the higher number provides more efficiency and costs more)
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:24 AM   #34
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[QUOTE=meierlde;1351668]
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That is the number for the inside coil on the furnace: If you go to the outside unit, what model number is that? should be something like xc xx (for efficency) -042 for capacity-230 for 230 v ac (Us model). If the numbers are unmatched it could be a problem. xc is a lennox outside unit, xp would be a heat pump btw. The efficiency number range from 13 to 25 depending on roughly the SEER of the unit (the higher number provides more efficiency and costs more)
The outside unit is on the roof. If you look at the second to the last entry below you will see how we hit a wall (so to speak).
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:42 AM   #35
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Not sure whether it's been mentioned, but sometimes there are dampers in the plenum (distribution box where the conditioned air is "distributed" to the duct work) that can be adjusted.
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:43 AM   #36
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[QUOTE=redduck;1351637]
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And, a guy came out yesterday and did something to stop the air from streaming out so forcefully.

Snip, snip

So, now the a/c seems to be working MUCH better than before. We are getting enough air throughout the house.
Did the A/C guy explain what he did?
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:36 AM   #37
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[QUOTE=KingB;1351768]
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Did the A/C guy explain what he did?
I did ask. I didn't understand. I know he went up on the roof where the air conditioner was and he also at least looked at the furnace (not on the roof). He said he turned down something a notch, but if he should turn it down yet another notch, the system might freeze up. Anyhow, I called the guy in charge of this HVAC installation project and he will come out to the house and work on resolving whatever issues remain.

The worker who came out to the house seemed to be the type that would prefer to lie rather than be truthful. He replaced the faulty digital reading thermostat with another one (seemed exactly the same), but this one came in a dirty, banged up box. So, I'm not sure if this "new" thermostat is really unused or not. He took the box back to his truck and when I asked him for it, he got sort of angry and said the company needed it for warranty purposes. I emailed the boss and let him know of the situation. So, I guess I have some protection there.
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:50 AM   #38
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The house is 2800 square feet (not counting the garage--which doesn't get the air conditioning). We got the 5 tonnage AC unit.
My house is of the same size, and I have the same sized AC. However, I am where the highest recorded temperature is 122F (50C), and the 24-hr average temperature (meaning including night time) can often approach 100F. A smaller unit would have run non-stop!

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He said he turned down something a notch, but if he should turn it down yet another notch, the system might freeze up.
The fan used to circulate the indoor air often has 3 speeds. The selection between Low/Med/High is made by a wiring change. So, I guess what he did was to change from High to Medium. And a lower speed means the air is going to be even cooler!
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