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Old 05-29-2016, 04:50 PM   #81
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Even with the oil light, you can go further before you actually change it, especially if you use good oil, as my husband told my kid recently. She got freak out when she saw the oil light.
Depends on what you mean by "oil light" All cars have a low pressure light as Aja mentioned. She was right to freak out if the oil <pressure> light came on. Many newer cars also have oil life monitor systems that estimate when the oil is worn out based on mileage and/or driving conditions. On our cars, I think we get a warning like "change oil soon" when it gets to around 5%, but we almost always change it when it gets around 15%. One of our cars also has a low oil level light that will come on if the level gets low which did happen twice.
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Old 05-30-2016, 12:08 AM   #82
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Including muffler bearing rotations?

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Twice a year!
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Old 05-30-2016, 02:43 AM   #83
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The "oil light" has nothing to do with quantity of oil in the crankcase. It means you have no oil pressure. No oil pressure is a death sentence for engines as the bearings will wear out in a matter of minutes (seconds in some cases). If you are lucky, the engine won't seize up (aka "freeze").

No oil pressure and prolonged (very short) driving means an engine rebuild costing thousands.
I asked him again. It's oil life indicator not oil light. It sounded the same to me. I don't know if we have oil light indicator. At least I never saw one.
I learned something new today.
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Old 05-30-2016, 07:17 AM   #84
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Including muffler bearing rotations?

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Twice a year!

Do you also check your blinker fluid levels at the same time?


There are several utube videos to show you how to do both.... Some are pretty funny to watch.
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Old 05-30-2016, 08:18 AM   #85
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Please don't forget to top off your 710 fluid...
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File Type: jpg 710.jpg (72.0 KB, 6 views)
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:09 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by aja8888 View Post
The "oil light" has nothing to do with quantity of oil in the crankcase. It means you have no oil pressure. No oil pressure is a death sentence for engines as the bearings will wear out in a matter of minutes (seconds in some cases). If you are lucky, the engine won't seize up (aka "freeze").

No oil pressure and prolonged (very short) driving means an engine rebuild costing thousands.
x2, but even if the engine does not lock up, your bearings will be wasted and engine rebuild is still required. The extent of damage is dependent on the time and engine design. Either way, rebuilding an engine gets expensive quickly, higher if more parts are damaged.

Those oil life monitors are good for the clueless, it reminds them to change the oil. Same with the tire pressure monitors, let's them know the tires actually need air pressure to work properly. The mfrs try to make things as idiot-proof as they can.
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:27 AM   #87
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x2, but even if the engine does not lock up, your bearings will be wasted and engine rebuild is still required. The extent of damage is dependent on the time and engine design. Either way, rebuilding an engine gets expensive quickly, higher if more parts are damaged.

Those oil life monitors are good for the clueless, it reminds them to change the oil. Same with the tire pressure monitors, let's them know the tires actually need air pressure to work properly. The mfrs try to make things as idiot-proof as they can.
My highlight above and there are many folks that pay absolutely no attention to the warning monitors (family members included). People don't realize what a rebuilt or crate engine costs these days ($$$ Thousands $$$).
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:31 AM   #88
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x2, but even if the engine does not lock up, your bearings will be wasted and engine rebuild is still required. The extent of damage is dependent on the time and engine design. Either way, rebuilding an engine gets expensive quickly, higher if more parts are damaged.

Those oil life monitors are good for the clueless, it reminds them to change the oil. Same with the tire pressure monitors, let's them know the tires actually need air pressure to work properly. The mfrs try to make things as idiot-proof as they can.
Unfortunately, God keeps on building better idiots. :-D

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Old 05-30-2016, 02:54 PM   #89
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Unfortunately, God keeps on building better idiots. :-D

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Old 05-31-2016, 10:05 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by aja8888 View Post
The "oil light" has nothing to do with quantity of oil in the crankcase. It means you have no oil pressure. No oil pressure is a death sentence for engines as the bearings will wear out in a matter of minutes (seconds in some cases). If you are lucky, the engine won't seize up (aka "freeze").

No oil pressure and prolonged (very short) driving means an engine rebuild costing thousands.
I had this happen to me, I turned the corner and the oil light came on, I pulled the car over right away, and turned it off.
I checked the oil and it was LOW, as in lower than the low mark.
I always carry a spare quart in the trunk and I poured the entire thing in as it needed a quart at least.
Fortunately the stick then read just needing about 1/2 a quart.
So I started up the car, ready to turn it off if the light stayed on, but it went off and all was good after that.

Yes I checked and found the oil plug was dripping oil very slowly, and needed a little tighten.
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Old 06-01-2016, 12:11 AM   #91
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Not according to the attachment you included. Only a single case was discussed and that one was blamed on the owner going far beyond the normal oil change interval and the engine running low on oil.

The poster wanted to know why the "oil level light" did not warn him. Respondents explained that it's a "oil pressure light," not an "oil level light."
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Old 06-01-2016, 12:24 AM   #92
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I think I've forgotten to ask if my shop does a brake fluid flush as part of a brake pad/rotor change. I hope so.
AFAIK, you do not get a brake fluid flush along with new pads and/or rotors.
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:50 AM   #93
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I use full synthetic oil and change every 5,000 miles but then I also drive on a lot of gravel roads with a lot of dust getting stirred up and sucked into the air cleaner.
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Old 06-01-2016, 10:57 AM   #94
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Ive always changed my oil between 5,000 and 6,000 miles. Changing oil yourself isnt expensive...around $20 unless you can find rebates on oil...then you stock up.

All of my vehicles have gone well past 200k miles. Ill continue to change every 5k to 6k.
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