Rebuilding old battery charger

aja8888

aja8888

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Well, I bought this charger so long ago I can't remember. It still works but the front gauge is broken (missing gauge face). I'd love to replace it but can't find an OEM one (ha ha).

I looked at Radio Shack online but I couldn't find any gauges. Maybe I looked at the wrong component sections?

Anyway, I want to have this old charger for continued use until someday the kids throw it out with all my other old tools.

Anyone have any ideas how to find a replacement gauge, OEM or otherwise? It's a:

Woodward-Schumacher Model WS86 (the front cover is also labelled Part 08-004-00003). Gauge housing has no part number or other ID. The unit is a 6 & 12 Volt charger (interior has a transformer tapped for both voltages operated by a slide switch on the front of the unit.)

Photos are unit, gauge housing front and back:





Thanks for all your help and suggestions.:)

Here is a sold unit I saw on ebay with a good gauge:

 
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Ideas here, nothing solid:
- If you want something that looks similar, fits int he case, and has the same range, I'd probably search using Bing's "images" function to see pictures of ammeters. You can then click on the image and backtrack to the web site it came from.
- If all you want is the functionality, maybe it would be better to just put a clamp-on DC ammeter over the leads when you are using it--then you'd have the ammeter to use on other projects elsewhere.
 
If you search for "tractor ammeters" on eBay you'll lots of round ones in the range you need. An alternative is to buy a digital ammeter and shunt on eBay.
 
Here's one on ebay - $5, free shipping.

1×DC 10A Analog Panel Amp Current Meter Ammeter Gauge 85C1 White 0 10A DC | eBay

You'll need to figure out what fits, but there should be lots of options on the webs.

I assume that the meter is measuring current directly, no shunt? That is, the wire path going to the battery goes directly through (in one terminal, out the other) the meter? So when it says '8 AMPS' there is 8 Amps going through the meter, not some voltage being read across a shunt?

If so, then any DC meter in the 8 A range should work.

As an alternative, I think you should put a modern digital meter in there, that would be a cool retro-modern mash-up, kind of like 'steam-punk'.


BTW, I 'inherited' one like that from FIL when they moved. I just looked, it is labelled "ALLSTATE" " SOLD only by SEARS, ROEBUCK, and CO.,". The ammeter on it has on of those symbols that looks like it came from the original Nuclear Regulatory Agency - looks like an atom with electrons orbiting it. Pretty cool.

-ERD50
 
ERD50 said:
Here's one on ebay - $5, free shipping.

1×DC 10A Analog Panel Amp Current Meter Ammeter Gauge 85C1 White 0 10A DC | eBay

You'll need to figure out what fits, but there should be lots of options on the webs.

I assume that the meter is measuring current directly, no shunt? That is, the wire path going to the battery goes directly through (in one terminal, out the other) the meter? So when it says '8 AMPS' there is 8 Amps going through the meter, not some voltage being read across a shunt?

If so, then any DC meter in the 8 A range should work.

As an alternative, I think you should put a modern digital meter in there, that would be a cool retro-modern mash-up, kind of like 'steam-punk'.


BTW, I 'inherited' one like that from FIL when they moved. I just looked, it is labelled "ALLSTATE" " SOLD only by SEARS, ROEBUCK, and CO.,". The ammeter on it has on of those symbols that looks like it came from the original Nuclear Regulatory Agency - looks like an atom with electrons orbiting it. Pretty cool.

-ERD50
Click to expand...

Yes, no shunt as one wire off the meter terminal goes directly to the battery. The meter diameter is 2".

I believe I did buy that from Sears a long time ago as that's where many of us DIY car guys bought tools, etc. I have a 4 HP 20 gallon Sears compressor that I bought in the 1970's that still works like a champ and puts out 7.3 SCFM @ 90 PSI (230V motor). And I have all my old Craftsman (USA made) sockets.
 
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That's why I often refer to this forum to DW as "The Well of Knowledge". Somebody, somewhere, on this forum has dealt with almost every issue imaginable.
 
:facepalm: I may have a gauge on a unit that I burned up, out in the barn.
 

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I think I took a part a similar transformer styled charger. I seem to remembered that it had mica-selenium rectifiers and funny looking electrolytic capacitors. Forgot what I did with it - probably went up in smoke at the garbage incinerator.:cool:
 
aja8888 said:
That would work. Check your PM's.
Click to expand...

Last call if you think this will work. David

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Early Retirement Forum mobile app
 

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grasshopper said:
Last call if you think this will work. David

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Early Retirement Forum mobile app
Click to expand...



David:

Now that I see the back and the tab arrangement, I think this will work but I will have to hack out a little bigger mounting hole for the face of the gauge. There is plenty of room inside the case for the sending unit as this one sits below the face while the old one is directly behind it. I'll give it a try.

Thanks,

Tony
 
I have that exact same 6 Amp Electromite charger!

It was given to me long ago when it was deemed to have zero value.
The ammeter was pegged one way or the other, don't remember which way, and would not move. It still charged. I took it apart and opened up the meter, freed it, and I think lubed it with a little oil. That was over 30 years ago. Still working fine.

Besides battery charging, I use it to test out power window motors and power lock actuators, both on and off vehicles.

The current flow through the meter is through the flat brass horizontal piece, and there is a small magnet on the meter movement. A crude and simple ammeter. But it is good enough to tell if a battery is charging or not, or if there is continuity through a motor.

I thought I had the last one on the planet, that was not underground :)
 
Telly said:
I have that exact same 6 Amp Electromite charger!

It was given to me long ago when it was deemed to have zero value.
The ammeter was pegged one way or the other, don't remember which way, and would not move. It still charged. I took it apart and opened up the meter, freed it, and I think lubed it with a little oil. That was over 30 years ago. Still working fine.

Besides battery charging, I use it to test out power window motors and power lock actuators, both on and off vehicles.

The current flow through the meter is through the flat brass horizontal piece, and there is a small magnet on the meter movement. A crude and simple ammeter. But it is good enough to tell if a battery is charging or not, or if there is continuity through a motor.

I thought I had the last one on the planet, that was not underground :)
Click to expand...

Yes, I have been using mine for all kinds if things when a 12V source is needed! The new meter will make it complete again. Yes, there are a few left out there!
 
This thread reminded me of the Schauer charger that my late father had almost 50 years ago. It also had a 6V/12V switch, as my father used it on his 1956 Opel Kadett which had a 6V system. I even remember that the selenium rectifier failed, so I soldered in a silicon diode.

Just found someone is selling the same charger on eBay, so I linked in his photo.

$_12.JPG
 
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Thanks to grasshopper's OEM gauge, the old charger is back in business!



A lottle two part epoxy and wire it up!;)
 
aja8888 said:
Thanks to grasshopper's OEM gauge, the old charger is back in business! A lottle two part epoxy and wire it up!;)
Click to expand...
Looks spiffy--very Atomic Age. I'll bet it will soldier on for a few more decades.
 
... but has it been recalibrated to the NIST standard?
 
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