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Old 12-12-2013, 11:43 PM   #21
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I myself have not experienced problems with wireless remote controls such as garage door openers, but interference problems do exist. I remember that a few years ago, my sister-in-law in south of San Diego complained about her garage door having a tendency to open itself, and that the Navy base there had something to do with it.

So, just now I searched the Web and found that indeed the US Navy was the culprit.

Garage door remote controls working again | UTSanDiego.com
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:48 PM   #22
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Problem with running wire is it may involve tearing out the sheet rock then patching it in order to thread the wire through holes drilled in 2x4 studs. There's no conduit used in new homes anymore.
Actually, conduit is still the norm in Chicago-land. I've seen it all my life, so I need to adjust when talking about wiring with people outside this area. There might be a few other places that require it, but they are few and far between.

It certainly has advantages - not sure they are worth the cost, but I'd guess the unions pushed for it. I think PVC drains are still verboten in Chicago-proper, plumbers union fights them.


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2 comments on this:

1) NEC requires you to use breakers at 80% of the connected load. That means a 20 Amp breaker should have no more than 16 Amps connected. ...
Everything you say is true, but in practice breakers can be in an over-current condition for some time (tens to hundreds of seconds, IIRC) before tripping. The specs are pretty loose.

A GD might be run for 30 seconds or so. So that might trip the breaker if the WH is on at the same time. Probably not, but you'd most likely be aware of it when the GD shuts down. And the worst thing would be waiting for hot water until you reset the breaker, so not much downside. But if it happens often, breakers get more sensitive after each actuation, so the problem would get worse over time.

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Old 12-13-2013, 03:02 AM   #23
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I got rid of the garbage disposal and replaced it with a deep strainer basket in the sink drain.
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Old 12-13-2013, 07:21 AM   #24
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Actually, conduit is still the norm in Chicago-land. I've seen it all my life, so I need to adjust when talking about wiring with people outside this area. There might be a few other places that require it, but they are few and far between.

It certainly has advantages - not sure they are worth the cost, but I'd guess the unions pushed for it. I think PVC drains are still verboten in Chicago-proper, plumbers union fights them.
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Was/is there a similar prohibition against solid wire? I thought I'd read that local code in Chicago required stranded wire up to a fairly high gauge (10?). Stranded is more expensive, easier to pull, but requires care when terminating around screws/etc to assure no strands are left loose to cause a short circuit.
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Old 12-13-2013, 08:35 AM   #25
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Was/is there a similar prohibition against solid wire? I thought I'd read that local code in Chicago required stranded wire up to a fairly high gauge (10?). Stranded is more expensive, easier to pull, but requires care when terminating around screws/etc to assure no strands are left loose to cause a short circuit.
Not that I'm aware of. I have solid in my suburban homes, and I'm pretty sure that is used in the city.

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Old 12-13-2013, 02:53 PM   #26
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I think Al's best option is to bypass the existing GD switch to make the outlet in the base cabinet live and then wire in a separate switch for the GD inside the base cabinet since he says the GD is only used infrequently.

That seems to me a better alternative than the wireless switch and the hazards it could create.
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Old 12-13-2013, 03:02 PM   #27
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I think Al's best option is to bypass the existing GD switch to make the outlet in the base cabinet live and then wire in a separate switch for the GD inside the base cabinet since he says the GD is only used infrequently.

That seems to me a better alternative than the wireless switch and the hazards it could create.
+1
That is what I was thinking but did not write. I would remove the switch at the old location and use wire nuts/cover plate in its place.
To make it safe/code you would need to use a box extension and conduit or surface shield for the switch run.
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Old 12-13-2013, 05:08 PM   #28
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+1
That is what I was thinking but did not write. ...........
That's what I was thinking, too, and did write.

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......... I'd go with the under cabinet switch like samclem suggested. You could use a weather proof switch / box if wet hands are a concern.

Greenfield Weatherproof Electrical Box Lever Switch Cover with Single Pole Switch - Gray-KDL1P at The Home Depot
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Old 12-13-2013, 06:00 PM   #29
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That's what I was thinking, too, and did write.
oops
OK, samclem gets the blue ribbon.
One idea to make the new switch more convenient would be to mount it inside a tip-out panel right below the counter. The hardware to turn the existing panel to tip-out is readily available.
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Old 12-13-2013, 06:34 PM   #30
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........One idea to make the new switch more convenient would be to mount it inside a tip-out panel right below the counter...........
Good idea.
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Old 12-14-2013, 02:38 PM   #31
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I think I'll just take out the GD altogether. I realized that having it there but not using it is not the same as not having it there.

For example, if I rinse out a can of tuna fish, the tiny fish particles will just sit inside the GD. Even with a strainer that will happen to some extent. Without a GD, they'd go down to the P-Trap, and probably get rinsed out soon enough.
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Old 12-14-2013, 02:44 PM   #32
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You just like taking the easy way out.

BTW, great to see you posting again. Keep it up.
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