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Old 01-13-2008, 05:38 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by 73ss454 View Post
As I mentioned on my last post, has Por-15 and Rust encapsulator.
Mmm... I went into that site and found their encapsulator and their article comparing it with por15 but I couldn't find the por15 product to order, just the eastwood encapsulator. I went to the po15 site and couldn't order it to be shipped overseas, guess it's too toxic (must be great).

Edit: Looks like those of us that are in the colonies or are nonconnected to the lower 48 are SOL. I found this caution on a site that sells PO15:

Due to Postal Restrictions on Hazardous / Flammable POR-15 Materials .. We ship by UPS and Fed-EX Ground Service only to the Lower connected 48 States U.S.A. .. We do not ship to P.O. Boxes , A.P.O. Addresses , Alaska, Hawaii , Puerto Rico, or U.S. Protectorates/Territories ..

Looks like yet another reason to secede or at least throw some tea in the water.

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Old 01-13-2008, 07:07 PM   #22
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Well, before you start throwing away your tea give the rust encapsulator a shot.

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Old 01-13-2008, 07:40 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by calmloki View Post
Phosphoric acid - see wiki article:
[edit] Rust removal

Phosphoric acid may be used by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces to convert iron(III) oxide (rust) to a water-soluble phosphate compound. .... When sufficiently diluted, it can even be nutritious to plant life, containing the essential nutrients phosphorus and iron.
Wow, versatile stuff that phosphoric acid!

I use it to sanitize stuff for brewing beer - it is sold under the name 'star-san'. Concentrated, it is dangerous stuff, but diluted to a pH of <3.0 it kills microorganisms on contact. But at that dilution, it is so easily diluted by the human ingestion system that it does not pose much danger (it is an ingredient in most soft drinks, not that that is a any recommendation). You don't even rinse it off - when the residue is diluted by the added beer the pH returns to normal - no problem. And a little extra acidity is said to be good for the yeast.

I'll try some on rust next - while I drink a home-brew.

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Old 01-13-2008, 09:15 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by SoonToRetire View Post
... unless you are Nords or are in Florida in which case you can look now.
I guess this is like when I make fun of you guys for "winterizing" your houses & cars!

My advice would be to throw away the rusty lanai furniture and buy something of powder-coated aluminum. The home-improvement stores & Costco are starting to get them at affordable prices.

But if you really enjoy watching chemical reactions (I have a chemistry BS) then you can also try Loctite's Extend rust neutralizer. They advise "Paint over the area with an oil-based paint. Do not use a latex-based paint because it will peel off or bleed through." And ya gotta love a compound that warns in boldface on the label "RUST MUST BE PRESENT FOR PRODUCT TO WORK!".

We have 17-year-old wrought-iron welded security grilles over the jalousies (and behind the landscaping) of a rental home. They get soaked in the rain (and sprinklers), covered with dirt from the tradewinds, and rarely see the sunlight (they even occasionally sport moss). Sandblasting, scraping, wire-brushing, sanding, and naval jelly are not an option because jalousies aren't airtight and the grilles are only removable with a reciprocating saw. So every five or six years we foam-brush a coat of Extend over them and just let the chemical do its thing. It gives the grilles a delightful old brown-black bumpy tropical patina that goes well with the landscaping (without killing plants like naval jelly might) and the grilles look better than the trim boards they're screwed into. We also don't bother with any kind of paint... we just keep painting over the old coats of Extend.

It used to be available only at auto-parts stores (it greatly "Extend-ed" the life of our first two cars) but the website claims that it's available at just about every home-improvment & big-box store.


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