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Old 11-22-2010, 06:59 PM   #221
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Been a while since I've had something for this thread.

First, today's dawn patrol air temp was 64 degrees (according to my car's thermometer). Water temp was in the low-mid 70s but I knew well enough to get out when it started feeling warm. I'm glad I don't have an aquarium thermometer stuck to my longboard yet, but today's the first day in over eight years of surfing that I wore neoprene. It's just a 3mm tank top and I think I want sleeves too. It's not even December yet.

Next, after the last couple months of North Shore 10-12 footers, it's really nice to do a little south shore 2-4. There was very little chop, almost morning glass. Everything happens at a more leisurely pace, it doesn't matter if you take off a bit late or don't pop up perfectly square, you don't have to watch the current like a hawk to make sure you're not pushed under the worst part of the break, and it's a lot easier to get your toes on the nose. Which probably means that I need to spend more time on the North Shore... maybe after the surfing contests are finished for the year.

Finally, today I saw my first waterproof MP3 player in the lineup. I'm not sure how I feel about that. At first I thought she was wearing surfer's earplugs with a lanyard, but then I saw her reach back to the pocket of her shorts to adjust the volume or change the track. She was in her 20s or early 30s and she wasn't a kook, but I've never seen her on the south shore before. I'm pretty sure that if she'd been one of the regulars then she would've been teased all the way back to the beach...
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:59 PM   #222
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Not a perfect day today, but close. Blue skies, warm air, sea temp not too bad, high 50s. A lot of head high plus waves, hollow, peeling lefts with light feathering offshore on almost glass. This makes 10 out of the last 11 days that I have surfed all morning. Last Monday was by far the best surf of the winter to that point. I will have to see how my body holds out because the forecast is for waves all week. Got worked over the weekend by mackers and strong side shore drift, salt water tread mill, hard Santana offshore winds. Had one day last week, Wed, where the south wind came up and blew in thick fog. Only one out. Long period overhead sets, and couldn't see 10', lost touch with the shore and began wondering what the heck was I doing. Luckily caught a big right all the way in to shore and was a half mile from where I started. Crazy!
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:42 PM   #223
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This makes 10 out of the last 11 days that I have surfed all morning.
Medic! Ibuprofen IV over here stat!!
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:18 AM   #224
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So, you think you are having fun? try this:

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Old 03-13-2011, 11:04 AM   #225
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You guys need to check this out! The videos are insane. Some of the point of view shots, the wipeout at Mav's with the on screen clock ticking off the time while the jet ski rescuers try to find the guy, the weird-assed boil on the face of the wave at Todos, these guys are nuts. Looking at the faces of the big wave surfers featured, you see some seriously older surfers with elephant balls.

Chasing the Swell - latimes.com
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:11 PM   #226
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You guys need to check this out!
Thanks, Ronin, great video. I like the ones with a little analysis and depth instead of a bunch of MTV microsecond cuts with heavy-metal soundtracks.

I can't imagine surfing a break for 15 years while everyone else thinks it's too dangerous. Probably including his family.

It's interesting that Greg Long, who was basically living in his van from one surf spot to the next, would win serious money at the Eddie Aikau and then donate it to hold another contest at Todos Santos. It really is an addiction!
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Old 03-17-2011, 03:14 PM   #227
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Now this:

SION MILOSKY DROWNS AT MAVERICK'S
Hawaiian big-wave charger passes away in NorCal

SION MILOSKY DROWNS AT MAVERICK'S | SURFLINE.COM
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Old 03-17-2011, 03:51 PM   #228
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Supposedly the earliest photo of a surfer, circa 1890:

Surprised the board doesn't look much larger - what would you guess the board - 8'?


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Old 03-17-2011, 05:30 PM   #229
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Either he's the world's first shortboarder, or he just ironed his loincloth.
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Tarponesia
Old 06-06-2011, 09:25 AM   #230
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Tarponesia

hollow blue p-lot barrels:

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Old 06-06-2011, 04:58 PM   #231
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Very nice! All they need to do now is shoot a fire hose down the tube behind the skateboarder...
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:23 AM   #232
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While this achievement appears to be legit, I think this guy is dangerously nuts.

StarAdvertiser.com - Mobile Edition
The Ultimate Crossing: The Ultimate Crossing intro

It's especially foolhardy to do it without a safety boat.

I think modern tech has lulled us into a sense of false security: "Oh, it'll be fine honey, my EPIRB will put out GPS updates and I can always activate it if I get into trouble!"
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:34 PM   #233
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That's pretty hard core. More power to him. I was just thinking this morning while surfing a nice head-high south swell how the ocean could seem mellow sometimes or insane at others, and when it goes wild, it is relentless and merciless.
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Old 08-29-2011, 01:06 PM   #234
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Billabong Pro from Tahiti on:

Live Webcast - English - Billabong Pro Tahiti, Teahupoo - August 20 - 31, 2011

Kelly Slater in the quarter finals right now. Good barrel action!
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Old 08-30-2011, 01:28 AM   #235
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Quote:
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Kelly Slater in the quarter finals right now. Good barrel action!
Beautiful. I wish I was able to handle that without getting sandpapered across a reef.

But there's always south shore summer:
Quote:
OAHU-
700 PM HST MON AUG 29 2011
HIGH SURF ADVISORY IN EFFECT FOR SOUTH FACING SHORES
Surf along south facing shores will be 6 to 10 feet Monday night, rising to heights of 8 to 12 feet with some higher sets possible Tuesday.
Dawn patrol in about nine hours... good night!
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Old 08-30-2011, 05:53 AM   #236
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This site has a surfing thread! I had no idea. I posted this a while back on a kneeboarding site with the subject "The lineup laughed at my post-ride comments". One crucial thing to know is that Bing made boards called Bonzers that were unbelievably fast. They design died out quickly because virtually all of the boards produced by imitators had at least one severe flaw in their riding characteristics. See attached illustration

-------------------------------------------

The lineup laughed at my post-ride comments

It was early in 1975 at Lowers (Lower Trestles in California). The crowd built slowly, partly because it was a weekday and partly because the swell had doubled overnight to 8' - 10'. After enough sets had passed without catching a wave, I decided to test if the superior speed of my Bing Bonzer would let me take off in the ajacent 'nicely shaped but too fast to be made' section. I figured I'd come off the bottom and then give a surfer paddling shoarward the choice of backpaddling or getting T-boned by the warp speed kneeboarder. It worked, so I kept pushing my takeoff point up the coast until I was far enough to make my post wave description both accurate and funny.

After yet another long paddle to my lineup I headed outside so I could rest floating on my back without worring about a sneaker set. Don't know what I was worried about, it had been consistent three wave sets with the largest always the third.

After resting I looked outside before heading in. Saw something I'd never seen before. Part of the horizon was more blue than the inshore water. I'm so nearsighted that I have to squint to make out the letter at the top of the eye chart so I wasn't sure what I'd seen. But I'd messed around in boats outside the surfline to know what it could be. Headed out to sea at an easy pace.

As the first swell of a set approached I thought that I was so far outside that it's going to be embarrassing the next time I paddle through the lineup on the way to my lineup. I reached the top of the roller and Time. Slowed. Down. The next wave was clearly larger than anything seen that morning. It hadn't stood up yet but was showing patches of whitewater along the top where it was passing over shallower spots. But that wave didn't concern me too much because the third wave of the set was clearly larger than the second. And it also was dragging whitewater in a few places.

Felt the crest pass under me and looked over my shoulder. Saw I still had line of sight to the lineup and yelled 'Outside!' for all I was worth. Put my head down and paddled, just hoping not to get caught inside and lose my board.

The third wave was a big mushburger when I reached the base, but had top to bottom green water in front of me. Half way up I flicked my board around, took off and rode it to the shore. It was the longest ride, longest tube and most unbelievable ride of my 11 years worth of catching waves. The memories are etched into my brain, so where I use double quotes below, it's because I'm certain that's what I said.

Stopped in the lineup on the way back out and said to my friend "Did you see me backdoor that cloudbreak freight train that pulled through here about 15 minutes ago?". "Yes" he said, with what sounded like disbelief and astonishment in his voice, mirroring the two emotions that still flooded me. I began babbling a monologue, punctuated by pauses, trying to find some way of describing what I'd been through: can't believe I made it .... didn't think I was ever coming out ... wondered if this is a dream ... in there so long my eyes dark adjusted ... f*ck ... sh*t ... (then, with confidence because I realized I had it) "I haven't been that deep, that long since before I was born."
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Old 08-30-2011, 10:42 AM   #237
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Dawn patrol in about nine hours... good night!
Bit my lip this morning about 3 AM for some unknown reason and started gushing. Thought about Tahiti and A-frame shacks for a while. Stoked, despite a fat lip, I got up pre-dawn and headed down. Found south winds blowing 10-15 knots, waves trashed. Bummer. Totally calm here at home. Never know.

I think the swell is supposed to start hitting us manana. As usual, there's always hope for tomorrow.

I remember the Bonzer. The single concave into the double concave at the tail lives on in my new quad fin set up. A lot more subtle than that carved out Bonzer deal. But you are right about the speed that is generated rail to rail.
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Old 09-02-2011, 06:48 PM   #238
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Ever wonder what happened to the Campbell brothers who invented the Bonzer?

Stop by Café Haleiwa sometime for a trip down memory lane.

Welcome

History | Campbell Brothers Surfboards
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Old 09-02-2011, 10:10 PM   #239
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Its funny because I was out in the water yesterday and a surf acquaintance showed me a used board he just bought and it was a 6'6'' bonzer.
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Old 09-09-2011, 11:26 AM   #240
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Flare surfing....

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