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Old 05-30-2012, 10:23 PM   #261
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Originally Posted by TargaDave View Post
... and any action is great action, wipeouts included!
You make a good point-- I wonder what the shear force is on a GoPro mount and my surf camera...
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:15 AM   #262
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I think mine would be more like "Look, he's paddling into a wave... he caught it! Now he's standing up... he's standing up... he's almost up... there, he's up! Look, he's turning left! And right! And left again! One more right, and here's the cutback! Ooooh, that's going to leave a mark. You hate to see that happen to a surf geezer..."


But what you really want is to go out there with DD and film each other.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:00 PM   #263
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But what you really want is to go out there with DD and film each other.
We've tried that, and it really only works if one of you is floating in the water (not on a board) when the other surfs past.

And if I'm on the camera then I need my reading glasses.

I really like the idea of the Soloshot doing all the tracking while we just surf together.
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Old 06-05-2012, 02:46 PM   #264
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Today was one of those really rare days when it went from blown to spit, victory at sea, early in the AM to smooth and pumping head-high wedgie south swells. Thank goodness I decided to go out despite the washing machine conditions. Ended up surfing 3 1/2 hours. Hope the swell holds thru tomorrow, but seeing how things change so much, who knows.

We went dry for 2 weeks until yesterday. Gills were drying out and the barnacles were starting to itch.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:06 PM   #265
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Waves were 6.5 - 7 foot at the buoy, definitely head high, and it was a little too much for me. I get so out of breath battling my way out (very few lulls), and at one point I got knocked under, and I really needed to breathe but couldn't. It would have been better to be younger.

I walked down the beach to where it's more protected, and got some good rides.

It was sunny with very little wind.
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:43 PM   #266
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Friday's surfing (our third day in a row while our daughter's home, and our eighth hour) was so frothy and wind-blown that my eyes were burning. It wasn't as high as Thursday's 6-8, but it was still at least 4-6 and somehow seemed more vicious.

The good news is that I'm more aggressive about pushing the board around when I turn, and my knees don't hurt when I squat into a hard cutback. It's been at least two years since my last knee injury so I guess I've finally built up the muscles to really carve again.

We finally got to one of those situations where we were caught in the break, had to paddle a hundred yards to the side to get back into the rip, and then still had to battle back out there between closeouts. At one point I realized that I'd paddled about 50 yards out and been thrown back around 45. That's when we decided to paddle in...
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:11 PM   #267
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Surfing goats....http://wtop.com/681/2941741/Surfs-Up
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One man's daydream of surfing in ER
Old 09-14-2012, 06:59 AM   #268
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One man's daydream of surfing in ER

Yesterday I read a Michael Lewis story in the October Vanity Fair. It is a profile covering the working life of a CEO with a stressful job.

Covered in the story are day-to-day aspects of the executive's busy life, the pressures of the job and the tools the executive uses for maintaining his focus at work and a semblance of balance in his life.

Lewis does a wonderful job of capturing the essence of the executive's approach to the job.

The executive is financially independent, but is clearly not ready to leave the working life just yet. As it happens, his employer has a very formal executive succession policy with defined "windows" for holding the CEO's position. The executive could have decided last year to retire this coming January. Instead, he has set a goal to ER at age of 55, in January 2017. (Or maybe it will be semi-ER; there's no indication that the executive has decided.)

Near the end, as all good writers do, Lewis weaves the various threads of the story together.

This passage figures prominently. In what was clearly a thoughtful moment, the CEO daydreams about surfing:

Quote:
...I’d asked him what he would do if granted a day when no one knew who he was and he could do whatever he pleased. How would he spend it? He didn’t even have to think about it:
. . . . You park your car. If the waves are good you sit and watch and ponder it for a while. You grab your car keys in the towel. And you jump in the ocean. And you have to wait until there is a break in the waves. . . . And you put on a fin—and you only have one fin—and if you catch the right wave you cut left because left is west. . . . Then you cut down into the tube there. You might see the crest rolling and you might see the sun glittering. You might see a sea turtle in profile, sideways, like a hieroglyph in the water. . . . And you spend an hour out there. And if you’ve had a good day you’ve caught six or seven good waves and six or seven not so good waves. And you go back to your car. With a soda or a can of juice. And you sit. And you can watch the sun go down …
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Nicaragua
Old 12-26-2012, 04:16 PM   #269
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Nicaragua

Planning a surf trip to Nica in mid-April or May of '13. Will be in the south, in the Popoyo area. Anyone surfed around there or have any tips?
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