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Re: Surfing Thread
Old 04-08-2007, 02:10 PM   #121
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Re: Surfing Thread

I went out at Camel Rock on Thursday -- first surfing since returning from Hawaii. It's a lot more work here; the waves are meaner somehow, plus hiking up/down cliff and wetsuit on/off.

But there's one big advantage: there was no one surfing near me and every wave was mine if I wanted it. Quite a luxury that I can appreciate more now.
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Re: Surfing Thread
Old 04-08-2007, 02:27 PM   #122
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Re: Surfing Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronin
JB, is your short board the 7'6"? That's the length of my shortest board and no way can I duck dive it.
Yes, I was on the 7'6. I also have a 6'10 and can't duck dive that one either! I find duck diving to be a lot harder than it looks.

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Re: Surfing Thread
Old 04-08-2007, 02:31 PM   #123
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Re: Surfing Thread

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Originally Posted by TromboneAl
But there's one big advantage: there was no one surfing near me and every wave was mine if I wanted it. Quite a luxury that I can appreciate more now.
That's a big plus! The places where I surf are frequently crowded. I often go out in less than ideal conditions (wind, huge waves on the outside, or at sunset) just to avoid the people.
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Re: Surfing Thread
Old 04-11-2007, 05:16 PM   #124
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Re: Surfing Thread

Double OH today, OH+ yesterday. Just about maxed out for what my beach break can hold. Got lucky this AM and paddled right out with only a few bombers hitting me over the head. Hopefully the swell holds through tomorrow!
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Re: Surfing Thread
Old 04-11-2007, 05:27 PM   #125
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Re: Surfing Thread

I'm glad the surf managed to cooperate with your spring break!

4-6 today and more tomorrow at White Plains. (The traditional season of "Mother's Day to Thanksgiving" has been just blown away by this winter's swells.) My knees are much more springy today than they've been in the last six months and I'm starting to feel The Force whenever I catch one.

Now if I could just do more of those 180-degree cutbacks on a 9'0". OK, if I could just do ONE of them...
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Re: Surfing Thread
Old 04-12-2007, 07:33 PM   #126
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Re: Surfing Thread

Yeah, surf finally cooperated but today I got called in for jury duty! :P Now I'm on a trial. Oh well, got 2 days in anyway. Today was gale force winds pretty early so maybe I didn't miss much. Hosting a big Aikido seminar this weekend so I'll be out of the water then too. Hey, Nords, take off fin first and pretend!
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Re: Surfing Thread
Old 04-12-2007, 09:29 PM   #127
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Re: Surfing Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronin
Hey, Nords, take off fin first and pretend!
Hey, I never thought of doing that on purpose...

Some people rehabilitate from knee injuries by doing squats on a wobble board. I'm doing my physical therapy on pretty much the same equipment, just made out of foam & fiberglas and floating on a different sort of wobble. Boy, I'll bet the "surfer rehab" industry could be huge!
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Re: Surfing Thread
Old 04-19-2007, 05:34 PM   #128
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Re: Surfing Thread

From our groundbreaking ceremony (this past weekend) for the new dojo (moving from little tokyo to chinatown). Shinto priest blessing the dojo with salt and rice paper.
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Re: Surfing Thread
Old 05-08-2007, 06:15 PM   #129
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Re: Surfing Thread

Surfing's been great here recently. There's a break that only works every few years, and it's just right now. I've gotten some amazing rides.
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Re: Surfing Thread
Old 05-20-2007, 11:56 AM   #130
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Re: Surfing Thread

How to make your own surfboard bag.
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Re: Surfing Thread
Old 05-20-2007, 12:00 PM   #131
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Re: Surfing Thread

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Dude, I think you've started a fashion trend... better copyright that design!
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Re: Surfing Thread
Old 05-20-2007, 12:17 PM   #132
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Re: Surfing Thread

Don't know chit 'bout surfing, but was watching "The States" on the Travel channel last evening. One of the featured this week was HI. Mention was made of Duke mumble-mumble-something-er-the-other, sort of the father of modern surfing. Anywho, they showed a board of the type he used: this sucker was maybe 10' long, made of solid wood, and weighed 180# or so, according to the spokesperson...

Update: added link

http://www.hawaiianswimboat.com/duke.html
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radical rodents
Old 06-04-2007, 01:53 PM   #133
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radical rodents

Check out these little rippers!

Surfline Video: RADICAL RODENTS STRIKE AGAIN
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Neighbor Tries Home Break
Old 07-10-2007, 09:26 AM   #134
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Neighbor Tries Home Break

Although we live across the street from the ocean, I've never tried surfing right from home. The shore break is pretty tough, and there's rarely anyone surfing there.

But yesterday, my neighbor decided to try it. I probably would have gone with him, but I'm on the injured reserve list right now. So I took pictures instead.

According to the buoys, the wave height was about 9.5 feet at this point.

In the end, the shore break was so strong, that he gave up. He spent a lot of time waiting for a lull, and made one actual attempt, but finally decided it was a little too rough for him. I'm sure I would have decided the same thing.
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Old 07-10-2007, 10:55 AM   #135
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That kind of stormy wind swell can make it too consistant to time a lull. Hate that kind of crap. Does it ever straighten out and break out there? What is it, a beach break?
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Old 07-10-2007, 12:34 PM   #136
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The drop off is very sudden right at the shore, so there's always a nasty shorebreak. Once you get past that, there are some sand bars that have a nice break.

Often the waves will come in and feather at the top, almost breaking, and continue like that for 50 years and then not break until they reach the beach.

Here it is on a more organized day, this taken from a cliff above the beach. The shorebreak is not visible.
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Old 07-10-2007, 01:34 PM   #137
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The drop off is very sudden right at the shore, so there's always a nasty shorebreak. Once you get past that, there are some sand bars that have a nice break.
Imagine if surf breaks had tow ropes like ski slopes...
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Old 07-10-2007, 01:56 PM   #138
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big shore break is the price of admission. keeps the riff-raff out.
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:58 AM   #139
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Here's a picture that someone in the jamboards.com surfing forum posted:

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Old 07-31-2007, 06:04 PM   #140
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Here's a picture that someone in the jamboards.com surfing forum posted:
Future tandem competitor! We see a lot of menehune around here hanging ten on their parents' longboards while the grownup hangs out on the tail keeping the ballast ride smooth.

We had a lovely 4-6 feet at White Plains today, including a father-daughter wave we could've ridden holding hands across our boards. We hardly had to wait for a single wave. Paddle out, surf in. Paddle out, surf in. Paddle out-- you get the picture. Sheer drudgery!

10th grade starts tomorrow and she's heavily bummed out. But the swells will probably last through the weekend, so as soon as she finishes her homework we can head back down.

For you locals & lucky visitors, Bishop Museum is hosting Pat Caldwell on 6-8 PM Tue 21 Aug. He's going to show the science of surf forecasting, talk about the buoy data, and explain how he gets it all up on the NWS website 2-3x/day while still finding time to use his findings...

Hawaiian Surf Forecast for O`ahu
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