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Old 08-03-2007, 11:12 AM   #141
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Had a great experience yesterday. Early morning, foggy enough that I could barely see the beach but not the hills behind it, glassy. I was all alone. This is a picture of the spot (someone else took this) and the arrow shows exactly where I was sitting (waves were bigger than this).

CamelRock.jpg

I was hearing some splashes and seeing disturbances in the water. Then two porpoises came up about two board lengths from me, probably mother and daughter. Quiet enough to hear them exhale. They continued to feed around me for about 10 minutes.
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:18 PM   #142
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These are the kind of moments I love about surfing. Glad it was a mammalian encounter and not of the cartilaginous kind! Once off the island of Savaii, I punched through a wave and as I came out the back side, the spray formed two perfect little rainbows about 12" in front of my eyes. Never happened before and has never happened again.
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Old 09-12-2007, 12:16 PM   #143
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We had a week of good surfing back in July. Check out the attached picture. This was taken at La Peruse Bay on the South Side of Maui.
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Old 09-16-2007, 12:33 PM   #144
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Dang I wish I'd taken pictures yesterday, but it would've been considered rude. Maybe I'll see him again and get a chance to ask permission.

Six-to-eight at White Plains yesterday and as corduroy as it will ever get. Over a hundred people in the water and no one was waiting for anything. Padde out, surf in. Paddle out, surf in. Paddle out again, surf right back in. Surfer hell-- all work and no rest!

I saw a guy on a type of board that I've never seen before-- sort of a surf ski with lots of buoyancy and leg straps on the deck. He was sitting down, strapped in, and using his kayak paddle to put that sucker into eight-foot waves and carve like a surgeon. Of course with the paddle he could catch anything, although since he was strapped down he sometimes had to lean waaaaaaay back to keep from pearling. When he cut back he'd lean that paddle into the turn like it was a walking stick and practically pirouette around it. It seemed way better than a kayak because he had rails and thrusters to work with.

Then as he paddled in I saw the wheelchair in the sand. Later I realized that it was this guy: AccesSurf Hawaii

I think I've finally found a non-profit that I'd enjoy donating to.
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Old 10-31-2007, 08:34 PM   #145
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Today was one of those once-every-five-years days when I was either saying "Wow" or "Life is good."

It "never" rains in Ewa but somehow that happened today. I usually don't get out in the early morning but today I paddled out before 8 AM. I was sitting at the break with the sun low on the east and rainclouds scudding along low to the west. The result was a huge, gorgeous rainbow that stretched from half a mile on each side of the beach and stayed there for a good half-hour. It was occasionally a double rainbow. Best I've seen in a long time, and we see rainbows here every day. We were all smiling at each other like idiots.

Then another long-time surfer hauled out on the beach. Usually we don't see these guys until Jan-Feb:
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Old 11-04-2007, 10:28 PM   #146
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What a difference a weekend makes.

The islands are getting pounded with rain. Last night's lightning & thunder were horrific. Just about everyone has had four inches today, and some areas have received 14". The rich homes up on Round Top Road have lost their access again due to more rockfalls & mudslides, just a few months after repairs were completed from 2006's closure. Streams have been overflowing their banks, mud is on all the roads, and Hawaii's drivers (never comfortable in wet conditions) have been in dozens of accidents. One vehicle actually jumped the guardrail and ended up on the side of Kipapa Gulch... gonna need a crane to take care of that one.

But the heck with the weather, because the surf has been double digits in practically every direction on the whole island. White Plains was going off 10-12 today and is forecast for 12-16 tomorrow! Ronin, it'll probably reach you by Thursday...
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Old 11-05-2007, 10:37 AM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nords View Post
Dang I wish I'd taken pictures yesterday, but it would've been considered rude. Maybe I'll see him again and get a chance to ask permission.

Six-to-eight at White Plains yesterday and as corduroy as it will ever get. Over a hundred people in the water and no one was waiting for anything. Padde out, surf in. Paddle out, surf in. Paddle out again, surf right back in. Surfer hell-- all work and no rest!

I saw a guy on a type of board that I've never seen before-- sort of a surf ski with lots of buoyancy and leg straps on the deck. He was sitting down, strapped in, and using his kayak paddle to put that sucker into eight-foot waves and carve like a surgeon. Of course with the paddle he could catch anything, although since he was strapped down he sometimes had to lean waaaaaaay back to keep from pearling. When he cut back he'd lean that paddle into the turn like it was a walking stick and practically pirouette around it. It seemed way better than a kayak because he had rails and thrusters to work with.

Then as he paddled in I saw the wheelchair in the sand. Later I realized that it was this guy: AccesSurf Hawaii

I think I've finally found a non-profit that I'd enjoy donating to.
Sounds amazing to watch. What is pearling?
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Old 11-05-2007, 12:18 PM   #148
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Yeah it's on track for mid week which leaves me out. Bummer!

Martha, pearling is when the nose (front end) of your surfboard dips under water as you are dropping down the face of the wave. It usually means you are going to wipe out unless you can pull it up in time. Maybe comes from the concept of pearl diving (headed down under)?
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Old 11-06-2007, 01:29 AM   #149
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A rare central east coast big surf weekend courtesy of tropical storm Noel (well, big for east coast at least)

SURFKDH.com Surf Reports, Photography, and News

This is Dimitri Maramenides kiting in something approaching double head high AND 45 knots of side-offshore gusts around TS Noel in Hatteras this last weekend. Very few people in the world can do this without getting pummeled (I don't even own a kite small enough for these conditions and I wouldn't even consider trying it if I did. 30 knots is my max in nice flat shallow water.) I happily spectate on days like this
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Old 11-07-2007, 08:33 AM   #150
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This is Dimitri Maramenides kiting in something approaching double head high AND 45 knots of side-offshore gusts around TS Noel in Hatteras this last weekend. Very few people in the world can do this without getting pummeled (I don't even own a kite small enough for these conditions and I wouldn't even consider trying it if I did. 30 knots is my max in nice flat shallow water.) I happily spectate on days like this
I used to be impressed by guys like this, and I still can't help having a "Whoa dude" reaction, but now I wonder if they have a family. And apparently his head is hard enough to render a helmet redundant?

Those photos remind me of Laird Hamilton. His wife Gabby is pregnant with their third. Wonder if he's still chasing the big waves?

Difficult enough dealing with the hydrodynamics, let alone the chute tugging on you. Although in this case perhaps it's an escape device...
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Old 11-07-2007, 03:01 PM   #151
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Nice pictures. Those Hatteras waves look powerful. The kite-surfers get the handy option of jumping over large sets and whitewater on the way out. Sometimes they are the only ones out at the local beach when it's closed out. It must be terrifying to get worked with those lines and kite attached.
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Old 11-09-2007, 02:26 AM   #152
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I used to be impressed by guys like this, and I still can't help having a "Whoa dude" reaction, but now I wonder if they have a family. And apparently his head is hard enough to render a helmet redundant?

Those photos remind me of Laird Hamilton. His wife Gabby is pregnant with their third. Wonder if he's still chasing the big waves?

Difficult enough dealing with the hydrodynamics, let alone the chute tugging on you. Although in this case perhaps it's an escape device...
Yep, like premier watermen chasing big surf this guy pushes right to the limt but he also seems to have that "ChuckYeager" type halo around him. Dimitri is married with a 5 year old son. I doubt these guys could ever back off that much, family or no family. In the blood I guess. BTW I don't kiting is a natural "fit" for the surf but some people think it's the end all.

A kite is great for jumping over the mess to get out beyond the break but you need correct wind direction with respect to the surf for it all to work right. Also has some safety valve attributes UNTIL it goes down hard in any big surf, then you'll likely have to dump it quick or things get ugly very fast. The bigger the surf and higher the wind the more precarious it all gets.
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Old 11-10-2007, 02:03 AM   #153
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I thought last week was unusual enough, but now it's been topped by today's events.

An old shipmate and her sister joined my daughter & me for a lunchtime session. We hit the sand with the other four hundred people around 11:15 and were getting organized when a monk seal popped her head out of the shore break right in front of us. She looked around, decided it was too crowded, and started moving down the beach. She swam straight through the "swimmers only" buoys and actually got within a few feet of several adults. I can only imagine how they felt when they sensed someone behind them and turned face-to-face with a full-grown monk seal. Their reactions were priceless.

After a couple hundred yards of this shore break cruising she hauled out at the other end of the beach... and that's when we realized that another monk seal had already hauled out nearby. I've never seen two of them on the sand at the same time on this beach. They were sound asleep within minutes.

As we regrouped from our photo session, I saw the USS OHIO on the horizon. (I knew the boat was in Hawaii for training but I never expected to see them just a few miles from White Plains.) The sail was sticking up like a huge rectangle sprouting antennae & periscope masts with the dry deck shelter behind. They cruised on across the scenery to make their Friday 1 PM pier time.

Oh, yeah-- the surfing was pretty good too.

I can't wait to see what happens next week!
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Old 11-14-2007, 10:03 AM   #154
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Check out these sick barrels!

Shane Dorian, Manoa Drollett, Dylan Longbottom and others charge giant Teahupoo on November 1st, TEAHUPOO GOES XXL | SURFLINE VIDEO
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Old 11-14-2007, 10:08 AM   #155
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That's got to be the weirdest wave on the planet:

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Old 11-14-2007, 11:48 AM   #156
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That's got to be the weirdest wave on the planet:
My brain is screaming "Paddle! PADDLE!!"

IIRC the water depth between the mush and the curl is about 6-24". I've read that Laird Hamilton actually broke down in tears after a ride there when he realized that just falling off his board would reef-razor him to ribbons.

Other things I've crossed off my to-do list: Teahupoo, Jaws, Mavericks, The Eddie Aikau... heck, with the North Shore crowds I'll probably never even surf Pipeline.
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Old 11-14-2007, 12:07 PM   #157
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I've read that Laird Hamilton actually broke down in tears after a ride there when he realized that just falling off his board would reef-razor him to ribbons.
Yes, there's a video of that, which I'm too lazy to search for right now.
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Old 12-05-2007, 02:08 PM   #158
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Apparently a 45 yr old surfer died yesterday while surfing at Ghost Trees off of Pebble Beach. He lost his board and didn't survive the swim in. Bummer!
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Old 12-05-2007, 07:34 PM   #159
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Hey surfer dudes, I'm not a surfer but just downloaded the trailer for Step Into Liquid in 1080p. I played it on my computer and large 1920x1200 display, and it was so realistic I think my desk got drenched. Seeing these big waves in high definition really makes me understand just how nuts brave you guys are. I try to avoid waves a tenth of that size while sailing.

.:Step into Liquid:.
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Close call on the outer reef on Monday.
Old 12-05-2007, 08:23 PM   #160
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Close call on the outer reef on Monday.

Monday was the biggest I've seen. It also rained hard most of the day which meant that there wasn't much opportunity for watching.

Maui News | Surfing star Laird Hamilton aides fellow tow-in surfer

GFs response: 'Laird got out naked at Baldwin? I'd would have liked to see that!'
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