TPR Valve on Mini-Tank Water Heater

[ERD50]

Is there something to grab on the tank side when you tighten the TPR? You don't want to just twist against whatever it threads in to. You need to be able to grab that side with a wrench or pipe wrench so you don't twist it off.

1.5 turns of tape seems light. All those gaps need to be filled and compressed. I also prefer the newer 'pipe dope' that works on metal and PVC. It lubricates the threads too.

edit/add: I also think that that compression fitting must need a washer or a compression ring. But I could not find that info. But they are NOT meant to seal on the threads, so using more tape is probably not the right way to go.

I've also read that a p-trap in the drain is not allowed by code. It would trap water that could get sucked back into the clean water supply if pressure was lost, and the valve leaked... unlikely, but those codes are what help keep things safe.


-ERD50

[TromboneAl]

More tape fixed all the leaks.

But I plugged it in, and it doesn't work. The light doesn't come on and it doesn't heat the water. Tech support at Stiebel Eltron is overloaded, and I can't get through.

I hate plumbing because there's never any room to work, you have to contort your body all the time, and one mistake leads to a flood.

[calmloki]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TromboneAl More tape fixed all the leaks. But I plugged it in, and it doesn't work. The light doesn't come on and it doesn't heat the water. Tech support at Stiebel Eltron is overloaded, and I can't get through. I hate plumbing because there's never any room to work, you have to contort your body all the time, and one mistake leads to a flood.

Look for a reset button on the thermostat by the heating element. Push same in.

[bjorn2bwild]

Are you using the garbage disposal outlet? If so, it needs to be switched on for power.

[samclem]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bjorn2bwild Are you using the garbage disposal outlet? If so, it needs to be switched on for power.

If both outlets are controlled by the switch (which shouldn't be the case). If they are both controlled by the switch, it might be easy or hard to make it so that the WH outlet is always "live", depending on how the disposal is wired.
- Another option: a tripped GCFI breaker/protected outlet. But I'm guessing Al has already checked to make sure there's power to the WH outlet.

I'd bet on the reset button.

Welcome to the IHPC.*


* I Hate Plumbing Club

[ERD50]

Quote:

Originally Posted by samclem If both outlets are controlled by the switch (which shouldn't be the case). If they are both controlled by the switch, it might be easy or hard to make it so that the WH outlet is always "live", depending on how the disposal is wired. - Another option: a tripped GCFI breaker/protected outlet. But I'm guessing Al has already checked to make sure there's power to the WH outlet. I'd bet on the reset button. Welcome to the IHPC.* * I Hate Plumbing Club

+1 - Also note that you might not be able to run the disposal at the same time the tank is on the heat cycle - that might exceed the breaker rating. I think I saw a note that someone added a switch to the tank, so they could turn it off when they use the disposal.

If they did not run a live and a switched wire to that outlet, you will need to run a live wire down there to power one side of the outlet for the heater.

I'm wondering if waiting a minute for hot water seems like such a hardship right about now?

-ERD50

[TromboneAl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bjorn2bwild Are you using the garbage disposal outlet? If so, it needs to be switched on for power.

That was it! Thank you thank you!!!

[TromboneAl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERD50 I'm wondering if waiting a minute for hot water seems like such a hardship right about now? -ERD50

LOL, right!

[TromboneAl]

Two other age-related problems I have with plumbing:

1. The skin on my hands is thin, so I end up scrapping and cutting my knuckles a lot.

2. Bifocals don't work well when you have to look up at something close.

[TromboneAl]

Here is the final installation photo:



I'm going to have the plumber come and check all my work.

Notice the green rope? At one point while on my back under the sink, I grabbed the strip of wood that goes under the tilt-out "drawer" and it broke. At least that's something I know how to fix.

[JoeWras]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TromboneAl Two other age-related problems I have with plumbing: 1. The skin on my hands is thin, so I end up scrapping and cutting my knuckles a lot. 2. Bifocals don't work well when you have to look up at something close.

My dear dad was a plumber. The skin thing really got him late in career.

He bought TRIfocals that were ground such that the high portion was for reading distance. Helped him tremendously for plumbing.

And yes, the tight spots are terrible to work with. He was a pro and just got used to it. Plumbers also have some tricks and tools to deal with tight spots.

[aja8888]

Nice job! Even us handy engineers hate plumbing in tight places.

The best time to do these jobs is when you are upgrading counter tops and everything is open.

[TromboneAl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeWras Plumbers also have some tricks and tools to deal with tight spots.

Yes. I had a basin wrench that worked well for the hose that connects to the faucet. What I needed most was a short wrench.

The cap on the old DW outlet is still leaking very slowly.

[travelover]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TromboneAl ........ The cap on the old DW outlet is still leaking very slowly.

Worst case - use a ferrule fitting to attach a short piece of flattened and soldered copper tubing on the end as a cap.

[bjorn2bwild]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TromboneAl The cap on the old DW outlet is still leaking very slowly.

I am pretty sure that is a flare fitting cap (gas line). If so the threads will feel loose when threaded on clean - no tape.

[braumeister]

One of my favorite adages came from DW. Early in our marriage, she commented that it seems to be a law that every plumbing project requires three separate trips to the hardware store.

Over the years she has almost invariably been proven correct!

[TromboneAl]

It indeed took three trips. I finally got the correct cap and ferrule that stopped the leak. The guy at the hardware store knew his stuff. The guy at the plumbing supply store did not.

I generally try to advertise how stupid I can be, but I can't resist this time:

I should have realized why the heater wasn't coming on. When I was troubleshooting, I thought: well, maybe only one of the outlets in the pair under the sink is connected. So I plugged the GD into the other outlet, tried the switch and when it came on, said "OK, that works fine." Talk about the obvious staring me in the face.

If I'd reached over and tested with the work light instead, I would have gotten it.