Washing machine

[Moemg]

My washer has recently started stopping midway in the cycle and refusing to go further unless I wait 24 hrs and try again .The washer is a GI and just about nine years old . Would you repair or replace it ?

 

[REWahoo]

According to Consumer Reports, a front load washer should be replaced rather than repaired after it is 7 years old - 6 years if it is a top loader. If yours is 9, get a new one...

 

[ronin]

Do you mean GE? Tough one because it sounds like something might be heating up and cutting out, but could be anything from an easy fix to an expensive one. Personally, wouldn't dump a 9 yr old washer on general principles. But I can fix my own so it's a different proposition than paying for a service call/diagnosis.

 

[TromboneAl]

Google " washing machine stops halfway."

I'd do it for you but I'm on my iPod.

 

[TromboneAl]

I couldn't help looking: it could be the lid switch! If it thinks the lid is open when it's time to start spinning, it won't spin.

 

[Moemg]

I couldn't help looking: it could be the lid switch! If it thinks the lid is open when it's time to start spinning, it won't spin.

I had already googled that and it may be a lid switch but should I invest in a repair or just buy a new washing machine ? The repair guys usually charge $60 to diagnosis then it is price of repair & time . So I figure maybe $200 . A new washer will cost me about $600 pus they are more energy efficient . I have a small laundry area so the newer deluxe models don't fit . My So usually does all our repairs but not on appliances .

 

[Moemg]

Do you mean GE? Tough one because it sounds like something might be heating up and cutting out, but could be anything from an easy fix to an expensive one.

It is definetely something that is heating up and cutting out because if I let it sit for 24 hours it works fine .

 

[GregLee]

A new washer will cost me about $600 pus they are more energy efficient.

We replaced our old top loader last Fall with a Samsung front loader, energy efficient, water efficient, soap efficient, for $600 on sale from Best Buy. And instead of the loud nasty buzzing sound the old one made when it was done, this new one makes a pleasant musical tinkling, and it has a showy LED control panel. In fact, it's so much more pleasant to use, that now I do laundry about half the time, before my wife has a chance to do it.

 

[ERD50]

Do you mean GE? Tough one because it sounds like something might be heating up and cutting out, but could be anything from an easy fix to an expensive one. Personally, wouldn't dump a 9 yr old washer on general principles. But I can fix my own so it's a different proposition than paying for a service call/diagnosis.

+1 - even if you don't fix it yourself, you might be able to determine if it is a common problem with a low-cost repair. I'd search some of the appliance repair forums with the model number and see what comes up.

I dread having to replace our washer/dryer. Both are >20 years old, have had a lot of use with three kids, and the washer has had exactly ZERO problems. Dryer required a heating element, a new belt and new drum guides, which were all easy fixes and pretty cheap to do myself. Dryer should be good for another 20 years.

It is definetely something that is heating up and cutting out because if I let it sit for 24 hours it works fine .

That could also be something draining slowly and triggering a switch to avoid overflow? Or maybe some other odd electronic problem? Try unplugging it for 10 minutes and starting again.


-ERD50

 

[LightningDawg]

I do NOT like the new front loading washer/dryers. We bought the Maytag Neptune and had nothing but trouble. Even though it was fixed under warranty, it was a pain.

Then we bought Fridgidaire front loaders...just had the water pump replaced (out of warranty).

My mother has top loading Sears washer/dryer that are over 30 years old...never had a problem. Runs great. They don't make 'em like they used to. I just can't my wife to buy the old fashioned kind.

 

[eridanus]

Definitely google it. If it's a $20 part and a few hours, wouldn't it be worth it?

 

[ronin]

Used to find that, typically, motors would do what you described. Sometimes they are just clogged with lint and not getting air across them, but that's a lot more common in dryers. If you can get a look at it, you might see if it is clean or dirty. A bit of vacuuming or blowing might clean it up. But if it's in the windings or one of the electronic components, only trouble shooting and replacing the problem part would help.

If nothing else seems wrong, $200 sounds better than $600, but that's obviously a decision you have to weigh out. Maybe it runs another 9-10 yrs til the next problem. Mine is going on 25+ yrs. and has definitely been worth fixing a couple of times. Runs like a champ, knock on wood.

 

[Nords]

It is definetely something that is heating up and cutting out because if I let it sit for 24 hours it works fine .

You know how the patient's response depends on the way you ask the question. So let me ask the question a different way.

When the washing machine runs, does it have a rotary selector knob that slowly turns its way through the various positions of the cycle? If that knob (usually a motorized stack of rotating circular wafers making various electrical contacts) gets mechanically hung up during its travel then it'll stop rotating and the cycle won't finish. 24 hours (or whatever time) later you rotate the knob back to the beginning of the cycle and it seems to be fine.

A [-]simple[/-] hopeful cure for that problem is to vigorously rotate the know through 10-20 full revolutions. It cleans the electrical contacts and may also remove whatever peanut butter was stuck in the gears. The main advantage of this repair technique, though, is that it's cheap.

If it's just a circuit card flipping bits through its transistors, though, then you're right-- it's not the selector switch.

In addition to Al's lid-sensing switch, you could have a clogged drain pump/filter. If the tub won't drain then the controller won't continue the cycle. Lint, coins, jewelry, and "other objects" can get stuck in that filter all the time.

You could look up your washing machine's manufacturer/model on the Appliance Samurai website (FixItNow.com) and work through his troubleshooting guide. Then you could order the appropriate repair part(s), either off his site or from a local store. Then you could bust your knuckles (the Samurai may have a video showing how to take the washer apart and do the repair) and gloat about all the money you've saved.

Or you could buy a new EnergyStar machine and save the repair expenses within a few years.

Or you could buy a used front-loader off Craigslist, perhaps a Kenmore only a year or two old, and make up the payback even faster. But as another poster has mentioned, the Neptune model was fraught with "issues".

 

[Moemg]

, does it have a rotary selector knob that slowly turns its way through the various positions of the cycle? If that knob (usually a motorized stack of rotating circular wafers making various electrical contacts) gets mechanically hung up during its travel then it'll stop rotating and the cycle won't finish. 24 hours (or whatever time) later you rotate the knob back to the beginning of the cycle and it seems to be fine.

A [-]simple[/-] hopeful cure for that problem is to vigorously rotate the know through 10-20 full revolutions. It cleans the electrical contacts and may also remove whatever peanut butter was stuck in the gears. The main advantage of this repair technique, though, is that it's cheap.

If it's just a circuit card flipping bits through its transistors, though, then you're right-- it's not the selector switch.

.

Thanks Nords ! I will try this .

 

[samclem]

My mother has top loading Sears washer/dryer that are over 30 years old...never had a problem. Runs great. They don't make 'em like they used to. I just can't my wife to buy the old fashioned kind.

Part of the reason your mom's machine is still running is that it was built 30 years ago. Lots of the parts that used to be made of metal are now plastic (esp the transmissions in top-loaders). The mechanical timers they used stayed the same for decades (no parts problems) and were relatively cheap to buy and easy to replace (try that with the membrane keypad switches and circuit boards on modern washers--they change every couple of years and you'll need a loan to buy one). A top-loader bought today is not likely to last any longer than a front loader.

Industrial washers, the ones designed to wash 70 loads/wk in a laundromat, might still be built and designed to last a long time and be easy to fix, I don't know.

And, (you knew it was coming!) here's my obligatory link to a previous discussion of my fantastic Staber washer. Still going strong, still easy on water use and my clothes, will still be easy to fix when needed. Simple, simple.

 

[nvestysly]

Oulet & Scratch/Dent

If you decide to buy a new unit - regardless of brand - check to see if the retailer has an outlet store in your area. It may be worth the drive even if it's an hour or more away. For instance, my wife and I bought our front loading washer and matching dryer from the Sears Outlet Store in our area. We purchased a moderately sized unit (not the deluxe size) that fits into tight spaces. Don't let the size deceive you - you can really wash quite a large amount in a front loading washer.

Even if you buy directly from the retailer, ask about scratched/dented units. Or, ask for a discount if they don't have damaged units - no harm in asking for a lower price. Almost everything is negotiable.

 

[Nords]

And, (you knew it was coming!) here's my obligatory link to a previous discussion of my fantastic Staber washer.

It's a Pavlovian association now. Every time I see a thread with the words "washing machine", the word "Staber" pops right up in my brain.

 

[FreeAtLast]

My dryer broke down and I got a 1 year maintenance contract from Sears and they came and fixed it. I chose the maintenance contract over the time/materials as it was a fixed price. I think it cost me about $150. I told them it we broken and they said it did not matter.

 

[W2R]

We replaced our old top loader last Fall with a Samsung front loader, energy efficient, water efficient, soap efficient, for $600 on sale from Best Buy. And instead of the loud nasty buzzing sound the old one made when it was done, this new one makes a pleasant musical tinkling, and it has a showy LED control panel. In fact, it's so much more pleasant to use, that now I do laundry about half the time, before my wife has a chance to do it.

A pleasant musical tinkling instead of the hideous/frightening/jarring loud buzzing sound? That would be heaven. Based on that huge selling point, if mine broke down I'd seriously consider buying a set of Samsungs from Best Buy like GregLee did.

Since I said that, my washer and dryer will probably last for 40 years more...

 

[Moemg]

We replaced our old top loader last Fall with a Samsung front loader, energy efficient, water efficient, soap efficient, for $600 on sale from Best Buy. And instead of the loud nasty buzzing sound the old one made when it was done, this new one makes a pleasant musical tinkling, and it has a showy LED control panel. In fact, it's so much more pleasant to use, that now I do laundry about half the time, before my wife has a chance to do it.

I really want to avoid the LED control panel . We had a power surge and it fried the dishwasher & the microwave Led 's control panels .

 

[meierlde]

I really want to avoid the LED control panel . We had a power surge and it fried the dishwasher & the microwave Led 's control panels .

You can get a whole house surge protector installed, by an electrician or a lightning rod company. These stop the surges at the entry point, since with appliances you are talking about loads to big for strips.

 

[travelover]

You can get a whole house surge protector installed, by an electrician or a lightning rod company. These stop the surges at the entry point, since with appliances you are talking about loads to big for strips.

I have both a whole house and a local surge suppressor ahead of my Kenmore washer. CPU still failed.

 

[Telly]

I have both a whole house and a local surge suppressor ahead of my Kenmore washer. CPU still failed.

Well that's not encouraging at all!

Our washer and dryer are ~22 year old Kenmores made by Whirlpool. No electronics at all, just electrical. They have survived lightning-induced power pulses with no problem. Not so the Microwave which I fixed myself, it's a built-in. And various and sundry little stuff that popped.

Old machines are last of the breed, any new replacement will have a $ controller board and be a pain to troubleshoot and fix. Our new refridge has a controller board, I have a good quality outlet strip suppressor mounted behind it, only about 600w max on defrost, less power on running, so I could do that. Hopefully good enough...

 

[Moemg]

Old machines are last of the breed, any new replacement will have a $ controller board and be a pain to troubleshoot and fix....

Luckily my dishwasher & microwave were under warranty when the surge took them out . Otherwise the cost to replace the controller board would have been the same price as a replacement machine .

 

[ziggy29]

Our washing machine is too smart for our own good. It has water temperature sensors which cause the wash cycle to stop and report an error if the water temperature isn't within tolerance ranges for the selected water temperature.

The problem is that we can't wash in cold for much of the summer because the water comes out of the tap at 85-90º. So trying to wash in cold puts in warm water even when *no* hot water is used, and it errors out on us.

Something to consider if you live in a place where the cold water is not always cold. (And it's a real disappointment to be working outside or in the garage on another 103º Texas summer day and need a cool shower and not being able to get one, but I digress...)