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Washing Machine question for the handyman types...
Old 10-25-2012, 04:12 PM   #1
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Washing Machine question for the handyman types...

First of all let me clarify I am a dumb ass and know nothing about nothing. Of course most of y'all already knew that. But today I was washing a load of clothes and the thing stops on the rinse cycle. Won't empty the water or go into the spin cycle. This is a cheapo model my aunt had in the house and is roughly 10 years old. So I brought up my old Whirlpool that I had stored in the basement, but it has not been used for close to 10 years. Hook it up and sure enough, it worked. But it did smell a little funky, but I just blew it off thinking it was because it had just set up for so long.

I sat there and watched it as I didn't want to leave it and the motor over heats or something. It emptied the water out after the wash cycle and then added water for the rinse cycle. But dammit if it didn't do the same thing, sits there making a grinding noise(other machine made no noise) and never completes the rinse cycle or go into the spin mode.

Two machines doing the same thing. Am I missing something or is this just a common problem for older machines? I could understand this if today was Halloween.
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:15 PM   #2
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Is it a particularly heavy load? Some machines will just stop if they have a heavy load that is not balanced. Often there is a buzzer, though.

(caveat: no handyman skills here! )
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:23 PM   #3
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No, the second load was just a small one. First one wasn't that large either. I remember my mom's sitter having this same problem a few months ago. Her repair guy said just cheaper to buy a new one.
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:24 PM   #4
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oh oh.....

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Old 10-25-2012, 04:26 PM   #5
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There is definitely a force field vortex in that room. Run!
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:26 PM   #6
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:27 PM   #7
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:48 PM   #8
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Two options that I have had to do...


First, the switch (the knob where you choose what you want) can be stuck.... can you move it to the cycle youself and it work IOW, move it a click or two and see what happens...


Second, maybe your belt is loose.... this does not sound like what you have for the first, but maybe the second... you will get a bit of burning as the motor is turning but the belt just sits there rubbing the pully...
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:02 PM   #9
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There is definitely a force field vortex in that room. Run!
I agree! It could be in the entire house. Stay away from the bathroom!
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:36 PM   #10
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Two options that I have had to do...


First, the switch (the knob where you choose what you want) can be stuck.... can you move it to the cycle youself and it work IOW, move it a click or two and see what happens...


Second, maybe your belt is loose.... this does not sound like what you have for the first, but maybe the second... you will get a bit of burning as the motor is turning but the belt just sits there rubbing the pully...
I played with the knob. Gradually moved it towards the spin cycle, but nothing. Tried the rinse mode in all the other washing cycles and the same thing. You could be right on the second machine as it's just as you described. Maybe I will open it up over the weekend and take a look.

Thanks.
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:21 PM   #11
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Looks like on the first machine the problem is going to be the lid switch. I pressed down on the head as suggested in a video and it fell off in my hand. A small corner of it broke on the plastic head(not from me pressing down on it though). Ordering a whole new assembly online is around $30. May poke around on it this weekend before ordering the part. Want to make sure I can get to everything.

Bean counters were not made to be washing machine repairmen.
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:27 PM   #12
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Looks like on the first machine the problem is going to be the lid switch. I pressed down on the head as suggested in a video and it fell off in my hand.
Can you jumper across the leads so that the washer "thinks" the switch is closed? That way you'll know immediately (before you order a new one) if the switch is the problem. If the switch is the problem, maybe check locally for a store that stocks appliance parts. It might be cheaper and will certainly be quicker than waiting for something to come via the internet.

Normal disclaimer: Defeating the important and necessary lid safety interlock switch will allow the washer to agitate and spin with the lid open, posing a serious safety hazard to any living thing. Never do it.
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:07 AM   #13
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Can you jumper across the leads so that the washer "thinks" the switch is closed? That way you'll know immediately (before you order a new one) if the switch is the problem. If the switch is the problem, maybe check locally for a store that stocks appliance parts. It might be cheaper and will certainly be quicker than waiting for something to come via the internet.

Normal disclaimer: Defeating the important and necessary lid safety interlock switch will allow the washer to agitate and spin with the lid open, posing a serious safety hazard to any living thing. Never do it.
I saw a clip showing how to do that. I was thinking this might be the easiest/cheapest fix. I know it's not the safest thing to do long term, but I never try lifting the lid on the spin cycle anyway. Just me in the house and no kiddies around, so if I can figure out how to do it and it works.....might just go that route to get a couple of more years out of the machine.
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:59 AM   #14
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Can you jumper across the leads so that the washer "thinks" the switch is closed? That way you'll know immediately (before you order a new one) if the switch is the problem. If the switch is the problem, maybe check locally for a store that stocks appliance parts. It might be cheaper and will certainly be quicker than waiting for something to come via the internet.

Normal disclaimer: Defeating the important and necessary lid safety interlock switch will allow the washer to agitate and spin with the lid open, posing a serious safety hazard to any living thing. Never do it.

Plus one, exactly what I did.
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:24 AM   #15
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See, you can learn a lot on this forum....

I was lucky and never had the lid switch problem... mine were the two that I described...
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:44 AM   #16
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I played with the knob. Gradually moved it towards the spin cycle, but nothing.
Another free troubleshooting trick is to rotate the knob vigorously through the entire cycle about 10-12 times.

Sometimes the wafer switches inside the knob build up a layer of corrosion that eventually cuts off electrical contact. Rotating the knob by hand wears down the corrosion.

Or breaks the knob.
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Old 10-27-2012, 03:31 PM   #17
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Another free troubleshooting trick is to rotate the knob vigorously through the entire cycle about 10-12 times.

Sometimes the wafer switches inside the knob build up a layer of corrosion that eventually cuts off electrical contact. Rotating the knob by hand wears down the corrosion.

Or breaks the knob.
Good tip, but didn't work.

I'm done playing handyman. Tried the bypass on the original machine but it still won't empty out the water or go into spin cycle. About all I accomplished was making a mess trying to get the water out of the machine. So I will go buy a new one Monday and let these go to the washing machine graveyard.

Time for a med.
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Old 10-27-2012, 04:51 PM   #18
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A possibility..
In order for some older Whirlpool washers to go into the next cycle, there is an air pressure switch that is tripped when the washer reaches the preset water level. There is a plastic tube that runs outside the tub... as the water level rises, it pressurizes the air in the tube, triggering the switch to allow the timer to advance to the next cycle. Sometimes, the first fill will trigger the switch, but when it fills the second time, a tiny leak can cause the air pressure switch to fail to work. Advancing the timer doesn't work. Had this problem many years ago, and fixed by simply cutting the tip of the tube where it attached to the switch, and squeezing the end over the brass air input fitting. Also, the switch itself may have failed.
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:43 PM   #19
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So I will go buy a new one Monday and let these go to the washing machine graveyard.
Sears has several top loading models on their website for about $400. But suppose you want a nicer one, say $600. And then suppose it lasts 10 years. Spread out over that time, the purchase price is just $60/year, or $5/month.... Probably cheaper than a laundromat these days.

Feel better?
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:25 PM   #20
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So I will go buy a new one Monday and let these go to the washing machine graveyard.
I think the friendly guy who hauls away old washing machines actually sells them to handymen who repair them and resell them on Craigslist.

Around here many of them are recycled/shredded and sold for scrap.
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