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Old 10-02-2016, 09:21 AM   #41
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Yes, that is AMD only. The motherboards are different than the pentium ones. I'm pretty sure yours is model 740SFF. Small Form Factor.

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Optiplex.../dp/B007W2VRJW

They came in larger cases too. All very confusing to those charged with buying.

Some of these SFF models developed a problem where the CPU fan would go into high speed, and it was really disturbing.
Actually, the one I have is in the larger case:

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-OptiPlex...+740+minitower

But, yes confusing as I think there are 3 Optiplex 740 models with different boards and a bit of a misnomer, since though the one I have is named minitower, the case actually is pretty big (which I like as my hands aren't steady enough to work in a small sized case ).
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Old 10-02-2016, 12:47 PM   #42
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My highly effective, not for the timid, de-soldering method -
Heat the target from the backside of the circuit board with a clean tipped, hot soldering iron. With the tip still on the lead, blast with shot of compressed air. Repeat for the second leg of the cap. Remove the cap.
I do this in the garage and use an air compressor with a fine rubber nozzle. Blast in a safe direction. I don't know if canned air would have enough oomph, worth a try. Splattered solder can easily be brushed/scrapped off the board. Works for me every time. YMMV
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Old 10-10-2016, 03:12 PM   #43
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A quick update on my desoldering project to fix the motherboard of my PC.

Haven't worked on the live motherboard yet, but only the not functioning practice board.

Well, I tried doing the desoldering manually (solder iron tip and manual spring sucker). No way would I get the capacitors off. I tried adding some solder than trying and trying but couldn't remove. Might be because my of lack of skill or just that there is so little a spot where to capacitor connects to.

So, I went ahead a caved and bought that Hakko desoldering gun. From what came with the package, still couldn't remove the capacitor as the opening the desoldering nozzle that came with is too big (1mm). So, I ordered a smaller nozzle (.8 mm, smallest size for that tool). I struggled and fiddled around and was able to remove the capacitors, but it wasn't easy. Mainly, I need a smaller nozzle, but there isn't one for that tool. Using that tool on other capacitors on that board was a piece of cake.

Probably won't get around to "the surgery" until late October or November.
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Old 10-10-2016, 03:53 PM   #44
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Are these surface mount caps or through-hole?
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Old 10-10-2016, 04:33 PM   #45
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Are these surface mount caps or through-hole?
Through-hole.
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:39 PM   #46
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I never understood why the fans blow air out of the box. That just allows more dust in through all the cracks and crevices. Why don't they reverse the fan so it sucks air through the fan? That way you could have a cleanable filter to keep the dust down? And the air would exit through the cracks.
Blowing hot air out vs blowing cool air in doesn't really change the total airflow (in vs out) nor change how many particles are going into the case by itself. Without "out" fans, however, the higher temps may not be what is escaping (if you just blow in, the cooler air in the case may leave the case at a much higher rate than the hot air, resulting in overheating). Many cases these days (such as mine), utilize filtered vents to encourage airflow in through those, with optional fan mounts at the filter.
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:01 PM   #47
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I never understood why the fans blow air out of the box. That just allows more dust in through all the cracks and crevices. Why don't they reverse the fan so it sucks air through the fan? That way you could have a cleanable filter to keep the dust down? And the air would exit through the cracks.
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Blowing hot air out vs blowing cool air in doesn't really change the total airflow (in vs out) nor change how many particles are going into the case by itself. Without "out" fans, however, the higher temps may not be what is escaping (if you just blow in, the cooler air in the case may leave the case at a much higher rate than the hot air, resulting in overheating). Many cases these days (such as mine), utilize filtered vents to encourage airflow in through those, with optional fan mounts at the filter.
For the equipment I built, if fans were needed, we always had a filter on the fan, and had the fan blow that filtered air into the case. As folivier says, if you do it the other way, dust is sucked in through every crevice.

This was production equipment, and very many cardboard boxes of components were opened near the line, and that created a lot of dust over time. Equipment with unfiltered fans would just fill up with dust in a few months.

-ERD50
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:56 PM   #48
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I'm not a soldering expert but I've done a fair share of it through the years. On something like these capacitors, I'd heat each lead alternately and "walk" it out by pushing the top of the capacitor on the side you're heating. No need to try and desolder until you get the capacitor out. Even then I usually just reverse the process to put in the replacement then add some solder if needed.
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Old 10-11-2016, 12:27 AM   #49
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Everyone should learn to solder. I've done a few capacitor operations. One on a 50" flatscreen TV, another on a 22" monitor. Also, a few other times when there is just something wrong w/ a solder joint. Good luck!
This may be dating me, but I hate to think how many Heathkits I put together
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Old 10-13-2016, 11:20 AM   #50
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The surgery to replace the capacitors on my Dell's motherboard has started...
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Old 10-13-2016, 11:28 AM   #51
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This may be dating me, but I hate to think how many Heathkits I put together
Just this week I repaired an ancient Heathkit unit after scrounging some spare parts from the '70s. Somehow all its old caps, and the rest, are still working.
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Surgery Was a Success! - part 1
Old 10-13-2016, 05:20 PM   #52
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Surgery Was a Success! - part 1

I'm a happy camper.

Changed the bad capacitors today. Computer worked fine on the first try. Overall, from start to finish, took me about 6 hours. Yet, a lot more convenient than buying a new PC and reinstalling all the programs and dealing with the settings.

I attached some pictures I took of the event.

Thanks everyone for your soldering/desoldering tips!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 01-pre operation.jpg (488.5 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 02-desolder time.jpg (482.6 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg 03-bad cap verify.jpg (395.4 KB, 8 views)
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Surgery Was a Success! - part 2
Old 10-13-2016, 05:24 PM   #53
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Surgery Was a Success! - part 2

More photos:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 04-the bad ones.jpg (500.5 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 05-solder time.jpg (467.6 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 06-all done.jpg (837.6 KB, 8 views)
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Surgery Was a Success! - part 3
Old 10-13-2016, 05:26 PM   #54
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Surgery Was a Success! - part 3

The happy patient all fixed:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 07-happy patient.jpg (546.1 KB, 5 views)
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Old 10-13-2016, 05:45 PM   #55
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Great job, easysurfer!!!
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Old 10-13-2016, 06:59 PM   #56
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Great job, easysurfer!!!
Thanks. I'm happy I decided on the "fix it" route.
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:04 PM   #57
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Great job, easysurfer!!!
+1

Love to hear these DIY [successful] repair stories.

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Old 10-14-2016, 08:40 AM   #58
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+1

Love to hear these DIY [successful] repair stories.

omni
Thanks. Fun to DIY. Especially when things work out.

Plus, now I have a new desoldering tool and capacitor meter (a DIYer has to have new toys ).
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