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#41 | |
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I don't think they stink if they send me a decent check every month like a Defined Benefit plan would, but we can agree to disagree about that. |
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#42 |
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#43 |
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Just for the heck of it, I did an IRR computation on an SPIA which I purchased last year (age 59), guaranteed for 28 years (payments continue if I/DW live beyond age 87).
For the 28 year period, the rate of return comes out to 4.79%. However, if either of us live an additional 2 years, the return goes up to 5.08%. Longetivity means a lot on your computation. Again, since we know we (or our estate) will get a payment to a certain date, we know what the minimum return is. If we live longer, who knows? I guess I/DW can do the computation on our deathbead if we live more than 28 years. For me, this means that you really can't compute what a SPIA actually returns. "Good practice" means you make your decision based upon the minimum (would have to compute IRR from all vendors/plans) but understand that there is a chance that you will actually do better. Actually, slightly less than 5% returns are not bad (when compared to the current market returns). However, with the inflation rate sure to rise, you will take a hit (unless you live to 100+ ... )- Ron
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7AF, 377 CSG, Tan Son Nhut, Vietnam 68-69... Last edited by rs0460a; 07-16-2008 at 06:47 PM. Reason: added comment |
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#44 | |
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#45 | |
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Still it is not the 2 or 3% horrible investment that has been put forth by some who I believe refuse to take an honest look at it. I also think 5% or 6% isn't really all that bad. Millions of people buy only CD's, they are getting less that that on average I bet. Also annuities have no reinvestment risk (the risk rates could be low when rolling it over) and no volatility. The amount of the monthly check is fully predictable. |
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#46 | |
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#47 |
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso)
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Have you looked into home remedies for OCD?
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Come along and be my party Doll, Come along and be my party Doll... |
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#48 |
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#49 | |
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Dryer sheet aficionado
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#50 | |
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Recycles dryer sheets
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Harley
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"A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort." DW and I - FIREd at 50, two years ago, living off assets |
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#51 | ||||
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Recycles dryer sheets
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When I said "what people get on average" I meant the "expected value" as defined by Wiki: Quote:
Here's an example. You and I agree to buy a $3,000 CD. I put in $1,000 and you put in $2,000. We let the CD interest accrue inside the CD. Say it grows to $4,000. At maturity we flip a fair coin, the winner gets the entire proceeds. The expected value of the payoff is the same for both of us - $2,000. But notice that neither one of us can actually recieve $2,000. One of use will get $0 and the other will get $4,000. If I ask the question "What is the game worth to me?", I'll discount the final payoff to today so I can fairly compare it to my cost. The present value of the expected value of the payoff is again the same for both of us, and is $1,500 if we discount at the CD interest rate. So the game is worth $500 to me, and -$500 to you. If we played it many times, that would be our average gains and losses, even though no single round can give either of us $500. In words that you've used, if I wanted to get the expected value of this game ($2,000 at maturity) on my own, I would need to buy a CD for $1,500 - which is $500 more than I'm putting into the game. So the game looks like a good deal to me. Similarly, it's a bad deal for you. Quote:
In an insurance policy, a couple important questions are "What's the most I could get out if this, if the really bad thing happens? And, how much will I get out of this if a kind of bad happens?" I think that's what you're doing with your live-to-86 example, calculating how the thing looks if a "kind of bad thing" (strictly in the financial sense ) happens. I think that's a good question to ask and answer. But it's not the whole picture on a close decision. Quote:
Your gut tells you that there is some number between -$900 and +$100 which is some sort of average. To do that calculation, lay out a string of probabilities for the B bond paying each of it's coupons, and the maturity payment. (The probabilities are typically a decreasing string of numbers, since the issuer is probably in okay shape today, but your concern is that it will deteriorate over time.) You multiply the probabilities by the corresponding cash flows, discount to today at the Treasury rate, and that gives you a number that is somewhere between the best and worst case. If that number is less than the purchase price of the bond, then I would say you should expect to "get less than you put in (adjusted for the time value of money, which is the Treasury rate)" In the annuity case, you do the same calculation, but the probabilities are based on a mortality table instead of the possibility of the insurer going under (because you've specified that risk is small enough to ignore). The discount rate may not be Treasuries, because you feel that you're a good enough investor to get something a little better than that. Assuming that you can get the same rate that the insurance company does, then you are using the same method that they use to price the annuity and you're using the same discount rate. If you happen to pick the same mortality table, then you will find that you're "expected loss" is exactly the present value of their expenses and profit. So SamClem says that this method will always show a loss to you, unless you know something about your mortality that they don't (or they can get better investments than you can). That doesn't mean you should never buy insurance. It just means that you should understand that when you add up all the policyowners of an insurance company, their total dollars back will be less than their premiums (adjusted for the interest they could have earned). You don't buy insurance because you expect to beat the insurer at it's own game. You buy because you're trying to reduce the uncertainty in your financial life, which has a value that is measured in "utility" not "dollars". |
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#52 |
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Moderator
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Good point, Independent. And in this case we shouldn't discount the utility of decreased nest egg volatility for some investors, loss of large sums for the heirs, if any, and increased portfolio survival (decreased failure rate, not final net worth) according to recent studies I'm too lazy to dig up.
Depending on the importance of those factors and I'm sure many others, the annuity decision may swing one way or the other quite drastically. That's the non-money part. I've gone from keen interest in SPIAs a couple of years ago (based on misunderstanding and naivete) , to total rejection of the idea, to where I am now -- I will consider it as a unique diversifier in my portfolio around age 65 under pretty specific circumstances and amounts. It's not a slam dunk.
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Rich Tampa, FL (10% retired) As if you didn't know..If the above message happens to contain medical content, it's NOT intended as advice, and may not be accurate, applicable or sufficient. Don't rely on it for any medical purpose whatsoever. Consult your own doctor for all medical advice. |
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#53 | |
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One thing that immediately comes to my mind is that you seem to be saying that I lost out if the isurance company actually get a better deal than I do. In my mind if the insurance company makes 10% and pays me 6% that is still perfectly fine with me. I know I probably could have invested in a portfolio and could have made the same 10% myself, but it is fair to me because they took the volatility out of my returns and the also assumed the risk of my portfolio not earning 6% which is my meaningful threshold. Am I reading that correctly? Another thing is that you seem to be saying I am playing the mortality table odds. I don't really see this as a risk game (except for risk the insurer defaults). The payouts are determined upfront, there are no surprises. We all know anything can happen and life involves risk. My decision would be based upon the idea that if I die really early, I lost and so did my heirs so I would never put all my money in an annuity unless it was hedged with life insurance. However, if I am willing to accept a 5% IRR for myself and my heirs if I die at 78; or a 6% IRR if I die at 86; or a 7% IRR if I die at 92; what risk am I taking? I knew the outcome upfront and it was acceptable to me. |
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#54 | |
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#55 |
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I have definitely not rejected the idea of buying a few SPIAs later on to build kind of a pension (hopefully they could generate enough income to cover all basic expenses). But I consider them income insurance products and not "investments". Once you buy the annuity, the money is not yours anymore. And when you die, your "investment's" value goes instantaneously to zero (unlike real investments like RE, stocks, bonds and cash). In fact your "investment's" return depends in large part on how long you live after buying the annuity. If you die soon after buying the annuity, you will have lost a bunch of money. Live until 120 and you will bring the executives at your insurance company to tears. And since none of us know for sure when our time will come, it is futile in my opinion to look at annuities as investments.
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#56 | |
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#57 |
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