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Old 12-03-2018, 03:48 PM   #21
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Let me just say that even if I had a vacation home, I wouldn't go 6 months without visiting--if just for a week or two.

As far as the car goes:
If you have a garage, use a floor jack to put it up on jack stands to avoid tire flattening.
100% gasoline in the tank--keep it full.
Fuel stabilizer like Stabil.
Put a Battery Tender on the battery--just a tiny amount of electricity used. Very safe.

That's sufficient.
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Old 12-03-2018, 04:13 PM   #22
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I keep the battery connected. So far it has not drained in the 6 years I have been doing this. The first and last time I disconnected the battery years ago, the car failed (OBD Not Ready) the emission test.
I've never had that sort of problem... though I do have to reset the audio system each year and I always have to look up how to do that in the owners manual.
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Old 12-03-2018, 04:17 PM   #23
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With all the electronics in a car these days, I’d be concerned about disconnecting the battery for any length of time. I could be wrong, but I can imagine that most components will hold their settings long enough to change a battery but maybe not long enough to store.
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Old 12-03-2018, 04:45 PM   #24
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Seriously? I've used Sta-Bil for many years in gas that was going to sit in a tank for a long time. Every mechanic I've talked to has agreed it's wise. Seems like good insurance for a few bucks.
It's unnecessary.
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Old 12-03-2018, 09:52 PM   #25
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I keep the battery connected. So far it has not drained in the 6 years I have been doing this. The first and last time I disconnected the battery years ago, the car failed (OBD Not Ready) the emission test.
That's because you need to drive the car for some time and distance to allow the system to "reset" itself to show the readings. If you had driven around a bunch of days for probably dozens of miles, it would have been fine.

People used to think you could wipe out the memory of the computer by disconnecting the battery and then get it checked for emissions as there would be no error codes. Problem is that there are many other codes missing too...
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Old 12-04-2018, 11:13 AM   #26
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You sure about that? My fuel pump runs when I turn the key to "on" but not the oil pump. The car has to be running for the oil pump to run and build oil pressure.

I'm sure one of our automotive experts will chime in.
You are correct, the engine needs to be running for the oil pump to be spinning and pressurize. Only electric oil pump I'm aware of is an add on feature used on more industrial engines to prelude before start up.
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Old 12-05-2018, 11:25 AM   #27
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Float chargers are designed to maintain a fully charged battery and are a good idea. If concerned about leaving plugged in 24/7, just hook the charger to a simple timer that will run the charger for a couple hours each day. Newer cars do have a lot of small electrical drain items that will deplete a battery over time. Either disconnecting or using a float charger are good ideas.


Correct that oil pump is only working when engine is running. It is mechanically linked to engine rotation. What may be confusing is that all new fuel injected cars have an electric fuel pump that needs to build pressure before starting. So for a vehicle that has sat for longer period, turn ignition to on position and wait 5 seconds or so for it to pressurize before starting. The fuel pump will run initially for 5-10 seconds when the ignition is turned on by the computer in the car, and then turn off it is not started. It won't keep the fuel pump running if the car is not started.
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Old 12-05-2018, 12:49 PM   #28
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Cold winters where we live. I pull the battery out of our summer car and put it in the basement. We only drive it for five months of the year.

We leave the battery in the other car (winter) for two- three months. No problems starting for the past four years doing this. The first time was three months...again no issue whatsoever.
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