modeling options for early retirement

RetireAbroadAt35, I wanted to make a much stronger recommendation for you to read Jim C. Otar's book (in PDF file) "Unveiling the Retirement Myth". if you are into spreadsheets, he has one available at otar retirement calculator
 
One thing that surprised me a little was that we lost a some close friends while we were gone. We thought many of them would visit but very few did. Over time, it became difficult to keep up because we chose not to return to the US often. As a result, even some close friends just drifted off and it was not easy to reconnect with them when we finally repatriated.
We found the same thing whenever we moved. I am still friends with a couple I met over 40 years ago. But many acquaintences have fallen off the radar in between. Out of sight, out of mind is the watchword.

We have made many new friends in Mexico. We do a lot more with them than we ever did with our former acquaintences. We have also introduced many friends to Mexico over the 30 years we have been going there and still keep in touch with them.
 
I worked in IT. While I've never done small jobs as an independent contractor I think I could get some.

I didn't bring this up in the OP but when I said I wanted to build a model it is so that I can play with some of these ideas.


  • Do I try to earn $10-15k a year so avoid drawing down my nest egg?
  • Do I plan on picking up occasional contracts for years when I want to spend more than $20k?
  • Do I give up on my mini-retirement and go back to work for a year or two? I'd probably earn ~$120k/year but I don't have the stomach for it right now.
When I say I don't want to work, I mean that I just want off the hamster wheel. I don't want to have to work.

How do you mean? Social Security?
I think you will find IT work rather easily as an independent contractor. That makes your plans much more possible. However, speaking as a retired contractor in the IT industry (executive not worker), the trendmill just changes. You have to have realistic expectations about the nature of work. Even hobbies that turn into paying enterprises become work.

My age 60 comment is that it is when your money will likely run out. So supplementing your budget with some new income will extend that proportionately.
 
So I would advise that you find a gig that you love to do that brings in some cash.
Certainly, and if I find a way to make money doing things I love I'll be all over it. I'm not sure I'll ever find that, however.

kcowan said:
My age 60 comment is that it is when your money will likely run out. So supplementing your budget with some new income will extend that proportionately.
I think that's probably true (especially with only $400k in the bank). I'm not sure if I want to try and earn some more now while I'm still in my "peak earning years" or take independent contracts or part-time work to get off the hamster wheel sooner. I just don't want any more deliverables, client meetings, proposals, statements of work or design documents in my future.
 
Not a spreadsheet but a pretty good planning tool IMO is the Lifetime Planner in Quicken. You put in your nestegg accounts/assets and assumptions on inflation, investment returns, taxes, expenses, etc. and it does a nice year-by-year projection of your assets and when they would dwindle to nothing.

It isn't perfect, but IMO it is worth the price of Quicken. It is pretty flexible. One significant downside is that it is a deterministic projection, but if used in conjunction with Financial Engines (since you are a VG customer as I recall) and FireCalc, it is a good tool.
 
Certainly, and if I find a way to make money doing things I love I'll be all over it. I'm not sure I'll ever find that, however.

I think that's probably true (especially with only $400k in the bank). I'm not sure if I want to try and earn some more now while I'm still in my "peak earning years" or take independent contracts or part-time work to get off the hamster wheel sooner. I just don't want any more deliverables, client meetings, proposals, statements of work or design documents in my future.

I don't know what it's like doing side jobs as an IT person, but I've heard that it's easier than many other professions. Having said that, look at your earnings potential right now versus doing things on the side to supplement your income down the road. Do you really think you'll make that much $/hr of effort after quitting your current job? The other things is reliability - can you reasonably expect to find work when you want it on your schedule, at the $ you need, to partially offset your expenses? Is it worth it to tough it out for 2 to 4 more years at your current gig and really setting your finances up more securely, versus having to scrounge for side jobs as a semi-retiree? Or better yet, if you have the time, try lining up a few gigs now in your spare time to see what the experience is like in terms of commitment, $, and headache factor. Not to mention the possible difficulties of lining up side gig IT work when in another country (some clients might not care, but other clients might have concerns).

And then there's the Social Security/Medicare item - do you have enough quarters to qualify for both? Might not be a bad idea to work a few more years to qualify (if you don't already) to have another ace in the hole long-term.
 
Most of us started with a spreadsheet, and Otar's book is a great guide to retirement planning. (Worth whatever he's charging for the download these days.) You might also want to run a bunch of different FIRECalc scenarios. If you think you're close to ER then it's worth trying a paid subscription to FinancialEngines.com.

As for off-topic commentary... this board has never succeeded in staying on topic.

Just reinforces my age-old observation, that anyone who works for me hears all the time: "90% of all problems in any organization are caused by miscommunication/people hearing something different from what others meant."
I've never heard that!

Certainly, and if I find a way to make money doing things I love I'll be all over it. I'm not sure I'll ever find that, however.
I was strongly allergic to work when I retired, and for me the dissatisfiers still outweigh the putative satisfiers.

However I've found a way to make money out of just about every hobby that I enjoy. Handyman, surf instructor, writer, author, blogger... even just blogging about your hobbies for other enthusiasts. It's a big beautiful world full of money out there, and I'm living proof that the bar is far lower than I believed possible.
 
From the numbers supplied, it looks like the AA is around 63/13/24 (stock/bond/cash).
After several hours of digging through the Vanguard site trying to answer that question I came to the same conclusion.

Broken down a bit further, I have:

  • 52% domestic stock
  • 11% international stock
  • 13% bonds
  • 24% cash

I think I'll re-balance it towards:

  • 40% domestic stock
  • 35% international stock
  • 15% bonds
  • 10% cash

I'll leave the 401k alone until I'm forced to roll it over. The rest of my holdings will be consolidated and balanced as above.


  1. Sell the older individual stock and put that $34k into an intl stock fund (VGTSX)
  2. Transfer the Vanguard 500 Index Fund (VFIAX) to the total stock market fund (VTSMX)
  3. Transfer the Vanguard balanced index fund (VBINX) to the total bond fund (VBMFX)
  4. Take $60k from cash and put that in the international index fund (VGTSX)


Revisiting the OP, that should yield:



  • $40k in cash (mostly in ingdirect savings & CDs at pitiful interest rates)
  • $72k in Vanguard Total Stock (VTSMX)
  • $96k in Vantguard Total Intl Stock (VGTSX)
  • $9k in Vanguard Total Bond (VBMFX)
  • $168k 401k in Vanguard Target 2040
  • $34k 401k in Vanguard Total Bond Mkt Index
  • $2,700 Roth IRA in Vanguard Total Stock Market Index Fund (VTSMX)
Any comments?


As for making the transfers & purchases - in the past I've contributed gradually, averaging out price fluctuations.

Should I set up several transfers / purchases over the next couple of weeks, at least for the cash purchases?
 
If it would not cause you to have to pay any taxes, I would just go to your new asset allocation as soon as possible. If it would cause additional taxes, then I would do something different.
 
If it would not cause you to have to pay any taxes, I would just go to your new asset allocation as soon as possible. If it would cause additional taxes, then I would do something different.

+1 I was thinking the same thing as I read his post. Before pulling the trigger on the transactions determine what the tax implications would be for any trades outside of tax deferred accounts.
 
If it would not cause you to have to pay any taxes, I would just go to your new asset allocation as soon as possible. If it would cause additional taxes, then I would do something different.

Taxes ... never really had a strategy there. Referring to the previous numbered list:

  1. I would have to pay long-term capital gains as I believe I've held all of those shares for over a year. I bought these through a company discounted stock purchase plan.

    I don't see much of an option but to sell them as I don't want to have so much tied up in an individual stock. I don't know how to calculate the tax on this so I'll try and figure that out so I know what I'm in for.
  2. Not sure if this would be a sale & purchase or a transfer or how it would be taxed. I'll have to do some research.
  3. Not sure if this would be a sale & purchase or a transfer or how it would be taxed. I'll have to do some research.
  4. This will come out of my checking account so no tax issues there.
 
I just started reading about capital gains involving an ESPP - this article and a few others: Employee Stock Purchase Plans.

My corporate overlords always hired E&Y or H&R block to do my taxes each year so I am close to clueless. It seems surprisingly complex and arcane.
 
Taxes ... never really had a strategy there. Referring to the previous numbered list:

  1. I would have to pay long-term capital gains as I believe I've held all of those shares for over a year. I bought these through a company discounted stock purchase plan.

    I don't see much of an option but to sell them as I don't want to have so much tied up in an individual stock. I don't know how to calculate the tax on this so I'll try and figure that out so I know what I'm in for.
  2. Not sure if this would be a sale & purchase or a transfer or how it would be taxed. I'll have to do some research.
  3. Not sure if this would be a sale & purchase or a transfer or how it would be taxed. I'll have to do some research.
  4. This will come out of my checking account so no tax issues there.

Looking back at your OP it appears that all of the proposed sales and purchase would be in taxable account (not your 401k or Roth) so you would owe capital gains taxes on any profit on the sales. At worst, the sale of your individual stock would create a $5k tax but in reality it would probably much less because you will have some basis in those shares. For the other sales you can ask Vanguard what your basis is.
 
That is correct. Here is what I estimate my tax liability on the individual stock would be, assuming a 28% tax bracket (although having only investment income this year I wonder my tax bracket will really be).

Code:
Date       Shares    Value         Basis            Tax         Gain/Loss
2009-11    2            $120.00      $74.79       $6.78      $38.43
2010-05    174         $10,500.00  $6,492.81     $601.08    $3,406.11
2010-11    151         $9,000.00    $5,746.23     $488.07    $2,765.70
2011-05    146         $8,800.00    $7,121.49     $251.78    $1,426.74
2011-11    75           $4,500.00   $3,666.59     $233.36    $600.06
2012-05    15           $900.00      $978.30                      -$78.30
                                           Total Tax  $1,581.06
Still trying to figure out the taxable vanguard accounts.
 
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Vanguard won't show me my cost basis until they run their batch jobs again, but from memory my unrealized short-term capital gains were ~$2500 and long-term gains were ~$6500. That should put me at ~$1500 in tax in order to shift those funds from an S&P 500 fund to a total market fund and from a balanced fund to a total bond fund.

Is it worth $1500 to make my asset allocation look a bit more like everyone else's?
 
Vanguard won't show me my cost basis until they run their batch jobs again, but from memory my unrealized short-term capital gains were ~$2500 and long-term gains were ~$6500. That should put me at ~$1500 in tax in order to shift those funds from an S&P 500 fund to a total market fund and from a balanced fund to a total bond fund.

Is it worth $1500 to make my asset allocation look a bit more like everyone else's?

Its not so much like everyone else's - it should be to your target AA that is consistent with the risk you are willing to assume. Since I hate paying taxes it would be a tough call for me.
 
Well, they say AA is important but they also say it doesn't matter.

I've never cared, only looking at this balance once or twice a year and not doing much more than saying "hmm, that's interesting." I suppose I'm pretty tolerant of risk, at least until I have an ER plan worked out.

So I guess I'm going to leave it where it is and just do the cash transactions.
 
oh my...
 

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Hey, all I'm saying is that nobody has ever convinced me that AA* really matters, other than in a fuzzy "am I comfortable with the risk" sort of way.

I don't really worry about fuzzy stuff like that, so unless I see some numbers or am captivated by some good reasoning, I'm just not gonna give a hoot. I strongly suspect that in the long haul it really doesn't matter much.

* except for the cash, that's deflating in my .5% interest checking account so it will be reallocated
 
Hey, all I'm saying is that nobody has ever convinced me that AA* really matters, other than in a fuzzy "am I comfortable with the risk" sort of way.

I don't really worry about fuzzy stuff like that, so unless I see some numbers or am captivated by some good reasoning, I'm just not gonna give a hoot. I strongly suspect that in the long haul it really doesn't matter much.

* except for the cash, that's deflating in my .5% interest checking account so it will be reallocated

I think you are OK with that thinking. I don't have the exact numbers handy, but from what I recall, FIRECALC reports a pretty flat response to a long-term AA of anywhere from ~ 40% EQ up to 90% equities. Dropping Equities below ~ 35% was where there was a pretty steep drop-off in success rates, only a gentle drop at 100%.

This is why I question ERs that say they want a high % of fixed income to 'reduce risk'. They may reduce volatility, but they are almost certainly increasing their risk of depleting their portfolio. For me, that is the ultimate measure of financial 'risk'.

If someone is really the type that would freak out over a 30% market drop, sell at the low and then get back in when everything looks like sunshine and puppies, then maybe they should stick with fixed income. But they should be aware that the numbers say they are going to have to drop their 'SWR' considerably. Do some FIRECALC runs to check for your particulars.

-ERD50
 
Well, they say AA is important but they also say it doesn't matter.
I've never cared, only looking at this balance once or twice a year and not doing much more than saying "hmm, that's interesting." I suppose I'm pretty tolerant of risk, at least until I have an ER plan worked out.
So I guess I'm going to leave it where it is and just do the cash transactions.
Hey, all I'm saying is that nobody has ever convinced me that AA* really matters, other than in a fuzzy "am I comfortable with the risk" sort of way.
I don't really worry about fuzzy stuff like that, so unless I see some numbers or am captivated by some good reasoning, I'm just not gonna give a hoot. I strongly suspect that in the long haul it really doesn't matter much.
* except for the cash, that's deflating in my .5% interest checking account so it will be reallocated
Let's put a couple things into perspective.

AA matters when you're talking about the difference between a portfolio of 100% stocks and another portfolio of 100% cash. The first would beat inflation if its volatility didn't scare the bejeezus out of its owner, and the second is actually even nastier because the owner sleeps soundly at night without realizing they're being ravaged by inflation.

However AA does not matter when you're going from 51% stocks/49% cash to 50% stocks/50% cash. At that small a change, rebalancing doesn't matter either-- mathematically anyway.

What matters in that last situation is that the owner has made a plan ("I want a 50/50 portfolio...") and they're sticking to it ("... and I'm going to rebalance when it gets to 51/49"). Having a plan avoids lost sleep, obsession over the financial media, and "winging it".

An AA devoted to one stock is way too risky ("single stock risk") while an AA devoted to 30 stocks is probably a prudent risk (although at least one of those stocks is still likely to go to zero). Going from 30 stocks to 600 (or 1500) doesn't substantially change the volatility.

An AA heavy in company stock is way too risky if that company is also your employer. Exhibit "A" for this syndrome is Enron, where the employees lost both their income and their 401(k)s at the same time.

The significance of AA is that you should learn enough about it (from Bogleheads or from Otar) to choose an AA with which you're comfortable. Whether that AA is 25/75 or 75/25 probably doesn't matter-- the difference) won't make you obscenely rich or penniless. What will matter is having the confidence in your learning (and, much later, your experience) to stick to that AA no matter how gloomy CNBC or the stock markets seem to be. What will keep you poor is bailing at the bottom and jumping back in at the top. With the strength of your convictions, hopefully based on your knowledge instead of on the hand-holding of an advisor, you will not sell out at the bottom of the market and rush back in just before the next top. Instead you'll pick your AA and rebalance whenever it meets your criteria. If the market drops a thousand points, you won't think "OMG I have to cash out!!" Instead you'll think "Hunh-- wonder if I should rebalance." You'll check your AA and end up buying some of the assets at low prices while selling some of the other assets at high prices.

I can think of a couple situations where AA mattered to a few posters:
1. Dex, perpetually gloomy & doomy, jumped out of the markets last August (or was it Aug 2010?). The stock market quickly shot up. In retrospect, Dex nailed it-- he got out exactly at the bottom and missed the subsequent runup. If he'd just rebalanced to his AA he would have saved himself a lot of hyperbolic hypothecating. I believe Dex no longer posts here.
2. Dixonge, who admitted up front that his ER strategy was "insane". His AA was very heavily skewed to options, and IIRC the volatility eventually nailed him with margin calls. BTW you need to PM Dixonge about ERing to Mexico.
3. VaCollector, who kept buying BofA stock a few years ago because it just kept getting cheaper and cheaper. When they cut their dividend to a token penny/share, it also came close to ruining him. If he'd had an AA limited to a max percentage for a single stock then he probably would've still sunk a lot of money into BofA, but he would have avoided risking the rest of his portfolio for it.

As for paying taxes enroute your new AA, it's up to you. You can do it overnight (and pay some taxes) or you can do it gradually from income (and pay less taxes).

The point is that you have a plan, that you be confident in it, and that you stick to it.

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Low-yielding cash accounts: You are falling prey to the phenomenon known as "chasing yield". Asset allocation means using cash to dampen your portfolio volatility and to have an emergency fund. You should not give a crap what yield that cash is earning-- that's not its purpose. Instead you should be looking forward to being able to use some of that cash when stocks are on sale, or to having it available when you need it for an emergency. The one-time gains you get from those situations (stocks on sale or a discount for cash) will more than make up for years of minimal yield. Would you rather earn 2%/year with a near certainty of one sharp 20% loss somewhere during that 10 years, or would you rather earn 0.5%/year with the possibility of one 10% gain?

----------

I suspect that once you get through the Bogleheads or Otar reading, you'll feel more comfortable about the dispute over whether or not AA matters.
 
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I think you are OK with that thinking. I don't have the exact numbers handy, but from what I recall, FIRECALC reports a pretty flat response to a long-term AA of anywhere from ~ 40% EQ up to 90% equities. Dropping Equities below ~ 35% was where there was a pretty steep drop-off in success rates, only a gentle drop at 100%.

This is why I question ERs that say they want a high % of fixed income to 'reduce risk'. They may reduce volatility, but they are almost certainly increasing their risk of depleting their portfolio. For me, that is the ultimate measure of financial 'risk'.


-ERD50

While I do think AA matters I think there are many ways to skin the retirement cat. As ERD say anything between 35%-100% equities is doable in retirement and less if you are Groucho . Personally my AA has varied dramatically in my 13 years of being retired from a low of a bit over 50% equities in 2000 to high of near 90% in the last few years. There are plenty of professional portfolio managers and most brokerage who put out suggestion for over or under weighting a particular asset class.

I don't put much stock in their recommendations, but it is worth noting that a lot of big funds to change their AAs.

In my case I really focus on simple question. Will this particular asset class provide a reasonably high probability of achieving a 3-3.5% real return over the next decade to support my retirement? Back in 2000 with TIPs having real yields of almost 4% and AA Munibonds over 5.5% bonds were very attractive. Stocks at historic highs were less attractive especially tech and growth stocks.

Currently bonds I think have near zero chance of doing this, my existing CD portfolio (4.2%) is close but still will lose to taxes and inflation. Stocks I think are fairly value , but the dividend yield of 2% I think will keep up with inflation and there is decent chance of some capital appreciation.
I have started to shift assets to real estate since I think they have best chance of exceeding the 3.5% real return over the next decade.
 
And nobody thinks the OP's international is a bit high? (it's just a question.)
 
And nobody thinks the OP's international is a bit high? (it's just a question.)
It is higher than I would prefer. My target is for international equities is 25% of total equities. OP is almost half.
Another perpetual debate.

I guess the answer depends on how the question is framed. If one of the assets in a portfolio went up or down by 25% in a month, how much would it affect the total portfolio? And would you care?
 
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