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Honda reliability.. no bias because we don't own one
Old 01-26-2014, 09:18 AM   #21
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Honda reliability.. no bias because we don't own one

My friends 2006 Honda Odyssey passed 400,000 last summer and I snapped a photo of the odometer. He uses the car for his business (medical laser repair) and pleasure. It does see a lot of highway miles, mostly here in the South. He preforms normal maintenance and all the repairs amounted to one rebuilt transmission and two rear wheel bearings. The engine still does not use oil.

It now has probably 430,000 on it and doesn't look a day over 100K:

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Old 01-26-2014, 09:44 AM   #22
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Our friends only got 240,000 out of their Odyssey, proving once again that no manufacturer is exempt when it comes to lemons...
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:56 AM   #23
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I have a friend who has a 2003 Accord that has about 209,000 miles on it, and it's been pretty reliable. I think the only major issues he had were catalytic converter problems, and that's just been in the past few years. Oh, and when the car was fairly new, I think something went bad in the radio and it had to be replaced.

So, your 2007 Accord still most likely has plenty of life left in it. And, look at it this way...$825 is what? Maybe two monthly payments, at best, on a new $28K car?
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:59 AM   #24
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wow- that is impressive. i dont think i have ever seen mileage that high on a vehicle
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:59 AM   #25
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I have a friend who has a 2003 Accord that has about 209,000 miles on it, and it's been pretty reliable. I think the only major issues he had were catalytic converter problems, and that's just been in the past few years. Oh, and when the car was fairly new, I think something went bad in the radio and it had to be replaced.

So, your 2007 Accord still most likely has plenty of life left in it. And, look at it this way...$825 is what? Maybe two monthly payments, at best, on a new $28K car?
that is a good way to look at it
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:04 AM   #26
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I am trying to figure out if I should repair and continue driving my car or buy a replacement vehicle. I currently own a 2007 Honda Accod v6 with about 88,000 miles. I could sell the car for about 9,000 or trade it in for about 7,000. A new 2014 Honda Accord v6 would sell for about 28,500. At about 100,000 miles, within the next year, I will need a timing belt, water pump, drive belt service that will cost about 825.00.

So what do you think, repair and continue driving or buy a new or slightly used vehicle. I take decent care of the car I have and have not had major problems with it.

Thank you for the advice.
I will give you 7k and I will spend the $825. Problem solved.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:04 AM   #27
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wow- that is impressive. i dont think i have ever seen mileage that high on a vehicle
Nico, with today's cars, normal book maintenance will easily get you to 200K. Lots of highway driving will add to that. I see diesel pickups around here with several hundred thousand miles on them. I drive a diesel Jetta and it only has 140,000 on it, which is really not much.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:07 AM   #28
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I will give you 7k and I will spend the $825. Problem solved.
You are starting to make me think I have a valuable commodity here ha ha.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:08 AM   #29
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You are starting to make me think I have a valuable commodity here ha ha.
Notice the offers to buy it from you? You would be wise to conduct the maintenance and save the money for a new Porsche some day.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:14 AM   #30
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I have the Accord's older brother, an Acura, one year older and 15k more miles. I did that maintenance (timing belt, plugs, etc) and a few other things as well. The car looks good, is in otherwise excellent condition and I see no reason it shouldn't give me another 100k. At age 60, if I drive 'till I'm 80, changing cars every 8 years means 3 more new cars. If I can get 12 years use that's still one less new car I'll have to buy. If I can get 15 years and 200k miles, that means only one more car to buy. That's real savings.
If my 2002 Chevy Trailblazer is still going strong at almost 200k, your Acura is a layup for 200k. Based on some past vehicle problems and old wives tales, I expected my car to literally collapse into a junk pile at 100k, but guess what, nothing happened. Even bad reputation models can have individual cars that run great. It is all about what yours is doing, not the collective group. I decided if you have a good horse, you run him hard until the end. Brake change, tires, battery, spark plugs, front wheel bearings, oil change, air filter and one $200 repair is all I have done to this vehicle for over 11 years. I didn't even bother to change tranny fluid until 190k on it. There are 3 check lights on the dash board lite up for over 5 years and I ignore them. This car vehicle was just built to run. BTW- I did not know people replaced the water pump before it broke, I am still waiting on mine or 100 other things that could go wrong to break but they haven't yet.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:29 AM   #31
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BTW- I did not know people replaced the water pump before it broke, I am still waiting on mine or 100 other things that could go wrong to break but they haven't yet.
The preemptive water pump replacement is based on access. Timming belt driven water pumps are a devil to get to (and expensive labor wise). Hence the recommenation to replace when the belt is changed.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:32 AM   #32
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The preemptive water pump replacement is based on access. Timming belt driven water pumps are a devil to get to (and expensive labor wise). Hence the recommenation to replace when the belt is changed.
Thanks,Bjorn makes sense. My vehicle has a timing chain so I hope that means I am exempt from that.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:38 AM   #33
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Notice the offers to buy it from you? You would be wise to conduct the maintenance and save the money for a new Porsche some day.
Make that a slightly used Porsche and save a bundle. This is a forum for frugal folks!
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:45 AM   #34
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Make that a slightly used Porsche and save a bundle. This is a forum for frugal folks!
This later in life frugal thing is my problem. I almost always have had a fairly late model car. I could still perceive some degree in value of a new car payment, but I receive no value for paying full coverage vehicle insurance, and a hefty yearly personal property tax bill either. I have been on liability insurance so long now, I probably would cry like a baby cutting that premium check and property tax bill with a new vehicle.
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Old 01-26-2014, 12:00 PM   #35
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I did not know people replaced the water pump before it broke, I am still waiting on mine or 100 other things that could go wrong to break but they haven't yet.
Gearhead response here:

Some engines, like my diesel, are "interference" engines, meaning that improper camshaft timing can cause the valves to hit the pistons, resulting in a very trashed engines in most cases.

Water pumps that are within the timing belt enclosure area can fail, thus pouring ethelyne glycol antifreeze and debris on the camshaft timing belt which generally causes it to fail or come off the drive pulleys. When this happens, it's valve and piston contact time.

Another dealer/mechanic shortcut is to not replace any idler pulleys in the timing belt path. Bearing failures in those pulleys can cause the belt to come off the driven pulleys resulting in the same outcome as above.

So, when in for a "timing belt change", it makes good sense to find a shop that replaces the water pump and other rotating components, along with a new belt tensioner.
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Old 01-26-2014, 12:14 PM   #36
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I work with a lady with a 1978 firebird that had 648,000 miles when she junked it a couple years ago. Rust damage finally kicked her over the edge. My son has 260,000 on his 02 jetty diesel. I've gone through 5 dodge minivans with the lowest mileage when I sold them was 164,000 a couple went over 200k and still running. For me, I finally get tired of em after 8 or 9 years.
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Old 01-26-2014, 01:03 PM   #37
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Gearhead response here:

Some engines, like my diesel, are "interference" engines, meaning that improper camshaft timing can cause the valves to hit the pistons, resulting in a very trashed engines in most cases.

Water pumps that are within the timing belt enclosure area can fail, thus pouring ethelyne glycol antifreeze and debris on the camshaft timing belt which generally causes it to fail or come off the drive pulleys. When this happens, it's valve and piston contact time.

Another dealer/mechanic shortcut is to not replace any idler pulleys in the timing belt path. Bearing failures in those pulleys can cause the belt to come off the driven pulleys resulting in the same outcome as above.

So, when in for a "timing belt change", it makes good sense to find a shop that replaces the water pump and other rotating components, along with a new belt tensioner.
The other side of the coin obviously is non-interference engines, which just quit running when the belt goes, no big damage. Knowing which type you have can help with decision making.
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Old 01-26-2014, 01:20 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by aja8888 View Post
Gearhead response here:

Some engines, like my diesel, are "interference" engines, meaning that improper camshaft timing can cause the valves to hit the pistons, resulting in a very trashed engines in most cases.

Water pumps that are within the timing belt enclosure area can fail, thus pouring ethelyne glycol antifreeze and debris on the camshaft timing belt which generally causes it to fail or come off the drive pulleys. When this happens, it's valve and piston contact time.

Another dealer/mechanic shortcut is to not replace any idler pulleys in the timing belt path. Bearing failures in those pulleys can cause the belt to come off the driven pulleys resulting in the same outcome as above.

So, when in for a "timing belt change", it makes good sense to find a shop that replaces the water pump and other rotating components, along with a new belt tensioner.
Helpful info. That's what I was wondering. Being a preventive "while I'm in there" cheaper solution makes more sense to me. An externally accessed one like I've worked on is much quicker and cheaper to replace the h2o pump.

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Old 01-26-2014, 01:22 PM   #39
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Who's winning?
I recommend trading it in on a new Ford Fusion. Man do those look sweet!!
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Old 01-26-2014, 02:28 PM   #40
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I have a Honda accord V6 coupe, 2008 with only 23000 miles. I alternate driving it with a truck. It's my summer car. It looks and feel brand new.
Although I need more space and am tempted to trade it, practicality sets in fast, and I will keep the car for another 5 years or to 100000 miles which ever comes first. I'll use it for a lot of road trip in ER.
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