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Old 03-12-2018, 07:28 PM   #41
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Tires and brakes are maintenance, not repairs.

I've always bought used, min around 30,000 miles - that seems to be the good deal point. My truck has 170k on it now and I just put new tires on it.

Unless your needs change (need a tow vehicle) or you feel unsafe in the car (it's too tiny), def fix it. heck, you will get a better price selling it if it has new tires at least.

Get yourself a Costco card and get tires there. If you are patient they have specials where installation is free.

Add me to the "I'll buy it" list. My kid needs her first car!

What sort of safety features would I be missing in a 2008 Nissan frontier? I'm curious.
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:52 PM   #42
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+1
I nearly replace my 3 yr old Sienna Van because it needed new wipers, but Menards was selling them with a rebate which made the wipers free, there are 3 of them you know!!.

So free wipers saved my Van, next week I'll decide if I should fill the gas tank or just trade it in
Fill the gas tank or trade it in? Tha's an easy one - trade it in. Most dealerships will fill the car up when you buy a new one so it's a win win. You get a new car and a full tank, they get nearly worthless paper/electronic money - easy peasy.
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Old 03-13-2018, 09:23 AM   #43
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Our 97 Camry was given to our son two years ago. It had 200K miles and was in perfect running order.

Currently we have a 2006 Accord. 110K miles. 2007 Solara Convertable 60K (summer car) miles.

We expect to keep both for years. We like both,they run well, have the bells and whistles that we want,and we keep them maintained.

I think the depreciation hit, taxes etc far exceed the cost of maintaining a vehicle that you like and really have no reason to trade. Much different if you have a lemon or simply don't like the vehicle any more.
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Old 03-13-2018, 12:50 PM   #44
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I would not expect tires on a new car to last 50K miles... so far, of the last 5 cars I have owned 4 of them have needed new tires around 30K miles and the 5th just hit 20K so the jury is still out...


I got 70k on my truck tires - and they weren’t really worn out. I rotate every other oil change.
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Old 03-13-2018, 12:58 PM   #45
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Old 03-13-2018, 12:59 PM   #46
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Consistently getting less than 50K on a set of tires is generally a sign of incorrect inflation, a lead foot off the starting line or other factors causing high tire wear. I can't recall getting less than 55K out of a set of tires in the past 20 years other than on my truck where I only got 40K out of the original set. Towing a 5+ ton RV is tough on tread wear.
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Repair Car or buy new one?
Old 03-13-2018, 01:14 PM   #47
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Repair Car or buy new one?

You also need to think about your safety. Cheaper older cars can get you into an accident if something breaks down while driving or leave you stranded at night. My car buying choices is not just economic but im paying for my personal safety
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Old 03-13-2018, 01:16 PM   #48
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$1,200 for tires and brakes on a compact car is too much.

I would never trade a car with 50k miles because of wear items like brakes/tires.

Search eBay for Milestar M932 in your car size. Find a local neighborhood mechanic for your brakes and have him mount/balance your tires. $350 for front brakes/new rotors. $250 for tires and $80 for mount/balance.
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Old 03-13-2018, 02:55 PM   #49
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Buying a new car because tires and brakes are worn on the current car reminds me of the people who think it is a great idea to take out an excessively LARGE mortgage on their house because they get to deduct the interest and save all that income tax. Great! Pay an extra $1 in interest and save maybe 40˘ max on taxes.
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Repair Car or buy new one?
Old 03-13-2018, 06:36 PM   #50
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Repair Car or buy new one?

I had a friend from work bring his truck into the dealer for an oil change. While waiting, he purchased a new truck and drove that off the lot. The old truck was just over two years old.

Who does that? A new truck on an impulse buy! My friend Tommy.

New tires and brakes - no problem. Easy to replace wear items.

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Old 03-13-2018, 06:56 PM   #51
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I would not expect tires on a new car to last 50K miles... so far, of the last 5 cars I have owned 4 of them have needed new tires around 30K miles and the 5th just hit 20K so the jury is still out...
Must be different driving conditions in Texas. Here in Oregon I generally get at least 50K ( My Ram 1500 truck 4 wheel drive) to 70,000 (My wife's Toyota Corolla). Maybe the infernal heat in Texas has something to do with that
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Old 03-15-2018, 09:29 AM   #52
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I have thought about buying a new one rather than doing repairs etc on a current vehicle.

I only got so far as figuring out what the sales tax would be in our jurisdiction, the dealer prep charge, and year one depreciation, etc on the new car would be. Plus the increase in insurance cost. Then we went ahead with the repairs. It would be different if we did not like the car. We are at home 8 months of the year and we have a summer car so this is not a huge priority or desire for us.

So on our 2006 Accord we went forward with tires, front brakes, and a timing belt.
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Old 03-15-2018, 10:20 AM   #53
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Fill the gas tank or trade it in? Tha's an easy one - trade it in. Most dealerships will fill the car up when you buy a new one so it's a win win. You get a new car and a full tank, they get nearly worthless paper/electronic money - easy peasy.
New cars are clean, while your old car needs a wash, and most likely a wax.

And have you priced out the cost of a complete detailing job? And that new car smell is something that only money can buy.

Maybe I should have traded in my wife's 2003 SUV. It's got only 27K miles on the odometer, and has spent most of its life sitting in the garage since she ER'ed in 2005. A couple of years ago, I had to replace all 4 tires due to dry rot. So, I spent money to replace them all. We do not drive it much, but want a backup to our daily driver which is not as much a gas guzzler.

Instead of that car sitting unused in the garage, I could have had a spanking new car sitting there in its place. It's only money, which they say I cannot take with me.
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Old 03-15-2018, 10:23 AM   #54
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I only got so far as figuring out what the sales tax would be in our jurisdiction, the dealer prep charge, and year one depreciation, etc on the new car would be. .
Good thinking!

Several years ago I was faced with some costly repairs on my Honda. I was thinking of a new car, but I soon realized that the sales tax and licensing fees on a new car were higher than the repair costs on the old car.

I repaired the old car and drove it several more years before somebody rear ended it and ended its life once and for all.
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Old 03-15-2018, 02:34 PM   #55
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The OP also talked about needing brakes. I forgot to tell about the brake job I did on my daily driver, just last Saturday.

The front brake started to make some noise on the passenger side. I pulled off the wheel to take a look at it, and sure enough one of the brake pads was well worn, and perhaps about 1/64" from metal-to-metal contact. Strangely, the driver side pads looked much less worn.

So, I left the wheels off and the car on jack stands, and took my other car, the rarely used one, to go to O'Reilly. See how having a 2nd car comes in handy?

Anyway, after $45 for the best brake pads that they had, and less than two hours later, the car was back in service. I even bled the old brake fluid. Had to, because the brake pistons were forced back into the calipers for the new pads, and pushed the fluid back into the reservoir.
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Old 03-15-2018, 03:20 PM   #56
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The OP also talked about needing brakes. I forgot to tell about the brake job I did on my daily driver, just last Saturday.

The front brake started to make some noise on the passenger side. I pulled off the wheel to take a look at it, and sure enough one of the brake pads was well worn, and perhaps about 1/64" from metal-to-metal contact. Strangely, the driver side pads looked much less worn.

So, I left the wheels off and the car on jack stands, and took my other car, the rarely used one, to go to O'Reilly. See how having a 2nd car comes in handy?

Anyway, after $45 for the best brake pads that they had, and less than two hours later, the car was back in service. I even bled the old brake fluid. Had to, because the brake pistons were forced back into the calipers for the new pads, and pushed the fluid back into the reservoir.
The pads with excessive wear may have been cause by the caliper hanging up due to corrosion. It's a good idea to lubricate the caliper pins when you have everything apart.

Disc brake jobs aren't generally difficult for a back yard mechanic, and the parts are relatively cheap.
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Old 03-15-2018, 03:45 PM   #57
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The OP also talked about needing brakes. I forgot to tell about the brake job I did on my daily driver, just last Saturday.

The front brake started to make some noise on the passenger side. I pulled off the wheel to take a look at it, and sure enough one of the brake pads was well worn, and perhaps about 1/64" from metal-to-metal contact. Strangely, the driver side pads looked much less worn.

So, I left the wheels off and the car on jack stands, and took my other car, the rarely used one, to go to O'Reilly. See how having a 2nd car comes in handy?

Anyway, after $45 for the best brake pads that they had, and less than two hours later, the car was back in service. I even bled the old brake fluid. Had to, because the brake pistons were forced back into the calipers for the new pads, and pushed the fluid back into the reservoir.
I hope you lubed the slides/bolts. Something is preventing the driver's side from working equally with the passenger side. Follow up in a couple of weeks to make sure they're working equally. Just my $0.02.
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Old 03-15-2018, 08:30 PM   #58
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There was no corrosion visible on the calipers (it is so dry here in the Southwest), and both sides looked the same. The halves slided easily enough when I installed the pads.

I did not think of lubricating them, although I had some high-temperature grease. May take the wheels off to do that.
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Old 03-18-2018, 11:46 PM   #59
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Are you driving in tough conditions, or drifting around town like Mario Andretti? My Camry tires lasted me around 60,000 miles. My truck is going on 50k and the tires are still just fine (a nail in one of them but no leak) and at least another 10k on them.

My maintenance schedule for the first 100k miles:
1 ATF flush $70
1 new battery when it dies or at 100k - ~70
4 new tires around 60k ~$400
2 brake jobs, 50k/100k or when wear bar squeaks (do them myself for $20)
2 air filters before 100k or when car starts to smell musty - $8/cabin $8 air
1 set of spark plugs - $12
1 set of wipers around 100k or when the wipers start streaking - $16

And oil changes/top-offs along the way.

All in all if you don't count the oil changes, this routine maintenance costs you around $700 for every 100,000 miles if you add in $20 oil changes every 5,000 miles its more like $1100. If you can get by any cheaper you are winning

And this is from a guy who hand-waxes 2x a year, and hand-washes/dries as often as he can. These vehicles are pretty resilient if you don't beat on them.

No, just that they did not last.... two were the same kind of car, just a year apart... one was known as they were summer sport tires.... the other was our Honda Pilot... was a bit surprised they did not last longer...

And I was also POed because I bought tires that were supposed to last 60K miles (Michelins) but they only went 40K miles.... Discount Tire said they were 'known' not to last.... well, why didn't you tell me when I was buying them
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Old 03-19-2018, 05:21 AM   #60
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My current strategy is if transmission or engine problem, replace. Otherwise fix.
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