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Old 09-11-2019, 06:59 PM   #21
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I'll wait for a catastrophic failure before putting a bullet between the headlights and replacing them.
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Old 09-11-2019, 08:15 PM   #22
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Run until something catastrophic comes up (needs new transmission, engine) or it becomes chronically unreliable. This isn't a bare bones sentra we are talking about, it is a 4500+ pound volvo.
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Old 09-11-2019, 09:33 PM   #23
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My DW loved her 1998 Cadillac. It had a little over a100K miles/ Unfortunately, it had one of those Northstar aluminum engines that was prone to head failure.
It had one, which I would define as catastrophic.
She is now tghw proud owner on a Mazda CX-5 with all kinds of safety features including adaptive cruise control which she loves..
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Old 09-11-2019, 11:38 PM   #24
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You’re doing better than my 15 year old VW:
AC and heat don’t work
Can’t read computer display or stereo displays.
Glove compartment broke off completely, plastic everywhere is cracking
Oil leak
Headliner is falling down.
Car locks itself (including closing windows).
Transmission slips.
Engine light, traction control light, and fuel cap lights come on. Engine light codes point to pollution control.
Crack leather seats and steering wheel, paint is awful condition.
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Old 09-11-2019, 11:58 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by teejayevans View Post
You’re doing better than my 15 year old VW:
AC and heat don’t work
Can’t read computer display or stereo displays.
Glove compartment broke off completely, plastic everywhere is cracking
Oil leak
Headliner is falling down.
Car locks itself (including closing windows).
Transmission slips.
Engine light, traction control light, and fuel cap lights come on. Engine light codes point to pollution control.
Crack leather seats and steering wheel, paint is awful condition.
That car would have been gone at AC and heat don’t work. Also, I just can’t stand an oil leak. Worse than “get off my lawn” is “don’t leak on my driveway”.

Hopefully, you’re just joking with us.
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Old 09-12-2019, 02:28 AM   #26
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My check engine light came on 4 days before I was planning to drive on a 1700 mile move. Before the light came on I swore it would be the last highway trip. It is 22 years old Honda product with about 180k. Holiday weekend, regular guy couldnít fit me in. Took it to a nearby shop with good ratings on the internet. They hooked a code reader up to it for free (cylinder 4 misfire). A few hours and a few hundred dollars later I was ready for the road. I would like a safe new car but the cost of keeping it for in town driving and renting for the highway is too compelling. $400 to insure, and I could cut that down if I dumped State Farm, and $130 for inspection and tags. I will be waiting for something catastrophic I think. Last year, excluding the move I only drove about 3k miles, not much more than that this year. The expense of a new(er) car seems extravagant given how I use it. I would keep your car until you are looking at a really expensive repair.
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Old 09-12-2019, 05:04 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Souschef View Post
She is now tghw proud owner on a Mazda CX-5 with all kinds of safety features including adaptive cruise control which she loves..

Oh, I love the adaptive cruise control in our Outback. I've gushed about it to friends, especially when talking about stop and go traffic...all I do is sit there, maybe press a button when we start up again from a full stop, and it follows the car in front of me! SO much easier!
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Old 09-12-2019, 06:15 AM   #28
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Yeah, I'd go with the bragging rights and save the money. Oh, and don't tell ERD50 I said so, but if the car is running okay, I'd at least wait until I could get the check-engine light read for free.

Two of my cars are 20+ years old. Lots of "issues" but they start, drive, get where I'm going 99.99% of the time. Not such high milers as yours, but I'll wait for a catastrophic failure before putting a bullet between the headlights and replacing them. It's true that you can't put a price on "safety" but you sure can put a price on replacing a perfectly adequate car. So, ultimately, it's one of those YMMV questions.
+1. I hope to keep my Ď04 Acura until itís a legit classic. But itís only at 178k or so. Nothing else Iíve driven since I bought that RSX has impressed me much, handling-wise. I do like the backup camera in my company rig, though.
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Old 09-12-2019, 06:27 AM   #29
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I just junked my 2004 Colorado with 240,000 miles, not because it was unreliable, but because the frame was rusted so bad it wouldn't pass PA inspection. My 91 Blazer was junked at 454k. As long as your Volvo's integrity is still great, I'd continue to drive it. Beware of sticker shock however, when you do replace it.

The safety features available now made to protect persons inside vehicles that have had their weight and mass reduced to make CAFE standards. Am I that lazy to not turn my head, or use a rear view mirror, and rely on a camera? Do I need lane wandering lights and alarms? Does my new truck really have to slow down automatically when the vehicle in front of me is not going the same rate of speed as me? I'm the licensed operator of the vehicle, not the software and sensors.
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Old 09-12-2019, 07:01 AM   #30
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We tend to go by years of ownership, rather than miles. We have always driven our cars 12-15 years; only a couple of them had more than 150K miles when we got rid of them.

Related question - if you're holding onto a car for 15 years, why don't you have the ability to buy a new one outright?
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Old 09-12-2019, 07:16 AM   #31
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The safety features available now made to protect persons inside vehicles that have had their weight and mass reduced to make CAFE standards. Am I that lazy to not turn my head, or use a rear view mirror, and rely on a camera? Do I need lane wandering lights and alarms? Does my new truck really have to slow down automatically when the vehicle in front of me is not going the same rate of speed as me? I'm the licensed operator of the vehicle, not the software and sensors.
^This^.

Remember the car you were driving 15 years ago? Did you feel unsafe back then while you were driving it? Didn't think so. If you are so concerned about the latest so called safety features you would have to get a new car almost every year. Some years you would have to replace your car mid year. Now granted if the condition of the car deteriorates to the point it becomes unsafe then yes, please replace. My 2000 Chevy Silverado with 187000 purs like a kitten and all features work fine. I will drive it until it becomes unsafe. Do the 2019 model year Siverado's have more "safety" features? I'm sure they do. Pretty sure the 2020 model year will have more features than the 2019.
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Old 09-12-2019, 07:39 AM   #32
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That car would have been gone at AC and heat don’t work. Also, I just can’t stand an oil leak. Worse than “get off my lawn” is “don’t leak on my driveway”.

Hopefully, you’re just joking with us.
+1

AC and Heat are non negotiable. My cars must have them. But leaking oil... its gotta go!!!
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Old 09-12-2019, 07:44 AM   #33
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I just junked my 2004 Colorado with 240,000 miles, not because it was unreliable, but because the frame was rusted so bad it wouldn't pass PA inspection. My 91 Blazer was junked at 454k. As long as your Volvo's integrity is still great, I'd continue to drive it. Beware of sticker shock however, when you do replace it.

The safety features available now made to protect persons inside vehicles that have had their weight and mass reduced to make CAFE standards. Am I that lazy to not turn my head, or use a rear view mirror, and rely on a camera? Do I need lane wandering lights and alarms? Does my new truck really have to slow down automatically when the vehicle in front of me is not going the same rate of speed as me? I'm the licensed operator of the vehicle, not the software and sensors.
Thanks for a blast from the past. I'd forgotten about PA auto inspections. One of the best jobs I had was running auto parts for a year. I loved it outside of the couple of weeks before each inspection period.

Sad to see the frame rot in 15 years. We get a lot of snow in this part of the country but they don't use corrosive chemicals so vehicles last.
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Old 09-12-2019, 07:48 AM   #34
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^This^.

Remember the car you were driving 15 years ago? Did you feel unsafe back then while you were driving it? Didn't think so. If you are so concerned about the latest so called safety features you would have to get a new car almost every year. Some years you would have to replace your car mid year.
I don't have a lot of the latest safety features, but I do feel safer now backing up with a backup camera than I did without. Maybe I didn't realize then what I was missing, so how I felt then really isn't relevant. You don't have to use those safety features as replacements for checking your blind spots or staying in your lane, but rather as supplements to safety.
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Old 09-12-2019, 08:19 AM   #35
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To me an old car that might leave me stranded is a bigger safety issue than a lot of the new car safety features
+1

Is there a part of town where you'd rather not be stranded? Trust me, life being as it is, that's probably where it will break down and leave you stranded.

Also an old car that is breaking all the time could *cause* an accident, because it may unexpectedly break and not perform as designed in an emergency situation.

Bear in mind that I am a female with zero interest in proving my chops as an auto mechanic, great interest in living to an old age, and I stick to buying new Toyotas for reliability. That said, here's my opinion:

Driving an extremely high mileage car says nothing whatsoever about you except;

1) you have to get your car running again at unpredictable, unexpected times when there actually might be something else you want or need to do, and

2) you think that's perfectly OK. And also,

3) you do not care about the safety of yourself, your passengers, or anyone else on the road. You'd as soon they all die.

It's not lack of new safety equipment that resulted in the New Orleans canals being full of old junker cars (often containing the bones of their driver). It doesn't matter how many sensors your car has if a wheel falls off or you have other catastrophic breakage in the middle of a turn.

As for the new safety equipment/standards, don't need them, don't want them, and I think often they encourage irresponsible driving. By that I mean that I completely agree with Winemaker when he said
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winemaker View Post
Am I that lazy to not turn my head, or use a rear view mirror, and rely on a camera? Do I need lane wandering lights and alarms? Does my new truck really have to slow down automatically when the vehicle in front of me is not going the same rate of speed as me? I'm the licensed operator of the vehicle, not the software and sensors.
Keep your high mileage car if you need a project to feel happy, but don't drive it regularly; buy a new car for that.

Well, unless your financial situation is such that you cannot afford to spend more than about $15K/year on all expenses, and have no possibility of improved circumstances in the future. Even then I'd recommend selling your high mileage car and buying a bicycle.
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Old 09-12-2019, 08:29 AM   #36
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I think W2R has her finger on it. When you get to the point that the car is not sufficiently reliable, it is time. But this yardstick varies. Our 2005 grocery getter minivan is unlikely to go out of state ever again. If it breaks down somewhere it will likely be within 10 miles of the house/our mechanic. Hardly the end of the world and since DD1 will have a license next year she would probably get a lesson in dealing with a mechanical issue (which has some value). Since it hasn't exhibited any signs of chronic problems, it will keep rolling.

The 2011 pickup is another story. This thing gets me into places where there is no cell signal for miles and I really, really would not want to be stuck. If it starts to show signs of constant problems my patience will be extremely limited.
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Old 09-12-2019, 08:34 AM   #37
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I've posted this in the past. Mileage has changed due to several trips:
-2004 Toyota Camry 292K miles. Runs great, looks good. The body has a similar design to newer cars. We spend @ $1000/yr to keep it healthy.

-1997 Toyota Camry 195K miles. Some rust, not bad. Runs fine.

If we buy another car to replace one of these, probably replace the 1997 Camry with a used car through Carmax.
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Old 09-12-2019, 08:57 AM   #38
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Drive the car until it becomes consistently inconsistent or until there is a large repair bill.


Keeping up with the newest safety innovations can be costly as there are new safety features every year and at every price point (you can certainly "justify" a yearly upgrade in the name of safety) so how safe can you afford to be?



Many people on this forum buy into this marketing.
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Old 09-12-2019, 09:28 AM   #39
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That car would have been gone at AC and heat don’t work. Also, I just can’t stand an oil leak. Worse than “get off my lawn” is “don’t leak on my driveway”.

Hopefully, you’re just joking with us.
Nope, but I do want to buy a new car. For now I park outside in a lot shared with a restaurant/bar, so the car takes a beating. Once I move I will upgrade to nicer transportation. The car only has $170k, but mostly city driving which is much tougher on the car.
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Old 09-12-2019, 09:32 AM   #40
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+1

AC and Heat are non negotiable. My cars must have them. But leaking oil... its gotta go!!!
Kids today are so spoiled.
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