When To Replace High Mileage Car?

[Llep]

My check engine light came on 4 days before I was planning to drive on a 1700 mile move. Before the light came on I swore it would be the last highway trip. It is 22 years old Honda product with about 180k. Holiday weekend, regular guy couldn’t fit me in. Took it to a nearby shop with good ratings on the internet. They hooked a code reader up to it for free (cylinder 4 misfire). A few hours and a few hundred dollars later I was ready for the road. I would like a safe new car but the cost of keeping it for in town driving and renting for the highway is too compelling. $400 to insure, and I could cut that down if I dumped State Farm, and $130 for inspection and tags. I will be waiting for something catastrophic I think. Last year, excluding the move I only drove about 3k miles, not much more than that this year. The expense of a new(er) car seems extravagant given how I use it. I would keep your car until you are looking at a really expensive repair.

 

[The Cosmic Avenger]

She is now tghw proud owner on a Mazda CX-5 with all kinds of safety features including adaptive cruise control which she loves..

Oh, I love the adaptive cruise control in our Outback. I've gushed about it to friends, especially when talking about stop and go traffic...all I do is sit there, maybe press a button when we start up again from a full stop, and it follows the car in front of me! SO much easier!

 

[cooch96]

Yeah, I'd go with the bragging rights and save the money. Oh, and don't tell ERD50 I said so, but if the car is running okay, I'd at least wait until I could get the check-engine light read for free.

Two of my cars are 20+ years old. Lots of "issues" but they start, drive, get where I'm going 99.99% of the time. Not such high milers as yours, but I'll wait for a catastrophic failure before putting a bullet between the headlights and replacing them. It's true that you can't put a price on "safety" but you sure can put a price on replacing a perfectly adequate car. So, ultimately, it's one of those YMMV questions.

+1. I hope to keep my ‘04 Acura until it’s a legit classic. But it’s only at 178k or so. Nothing else I’ve driven since I bought that RSX has impressed me much, handling-wise. I do like the backup camera in my company rig, though.

 

[Winemaker]

I just junked my 2004 Colorado with 240,000 miles, not because it was unreliable, but because the frame was rusted so bad it wouldn't pass PA inspection. My 91 Blazer was junked at 454k. As long as your Volvo's integrity is still great, I'd continue to drive it. Beware of sticker shock however, when you do replace it.

The safety features available now made to protect persons inside vehicles that have had their weight and mass reduced to make CAFE standards. Am I that lazy to not turn my head, or use a rear view mirror, and rely on a camera? Do I need lane wandering lights and alarms? Does my new truck really have to slow down automatically when the vehicle in front of me is not going the same rate of speed as me? I'm the licensed operator of the vehicle, not the software and sensors.

 

[mrfeh]

We tend to go by years of ownership, rather than miles. We have always driven our cars 12-15 years; only a couple of them had more than 150K miles when we got rid of them.

Related question - if you're holding onto a car for 15 years, why don't you have the ability to buy a new one outright?

 

[Bigdawg]

The safety features available now made to protect persons inside vehicles that have had their weight and mass reduced to make CAFE standards. Am I that lazy to not turn my head, or use a rear view mirror, and rely on a camera? Do I need lane wandering lights and alarms? Does my new truck really have to slow down automatically when the vehicle in front of me is not going the same rate of speed as me? I'm the licensed operator of the vehicle, not the software and sensors.

^This^.

Remember the car you were driving 15 years ago? Did you feel unsafe back then while you were driving it? Didn't think so. If you are so concerned about the latest so called safety features you would have to get a new car almost every year. Some years you would have to replace your car mid year. Now granted if the condition of the car deteriorates to the point it becomes unsafe then yes, please replace. My 2000 Chevy Silverado with 187000 purs like a kitten and all features work fine. I will drive it until it becomes unsafe. Do the 2019 model year Siverado's have more "safety" features? I'm sure they do. Pretty sure the 2020 model year will have more features than the 2019.

 

[Jeffman52]

That car would have been gone at AC and heat don’t work. Also, I just can’t stand an oil leak. Worse than “get off my lawn” is “don’t leak on my driveway”.

Hopefully, you’re just joking with us.

+1

AC and Heat are non negotiable. My cars must have them. But leaking oil... its gotta go!!!

 

[MRG]

.

I just junked my 2004 Colorado with 240,000 miles, not because it was unreliable, but because the frame was rusted so bad it wouldn't pass PA inspection. My 91 Blazer was junked at 454k. As long as your Volvo's integrity is still great, I'd continue to drive it. Beware of sticker shock however, when you do replace it.

The safety features available now made to protect persons inside vehicles that have had their weight and mass reduced to make CAFE standards. Am I that lazy to not turn my head, or use a rear view mirror, and rely on a camera? Do I need lane wandering lights and alarms? Does my new truck really have to slow down automatically when the vehicle in front of me is not going the same rate of speed as me? I'm the licensed operator of the vehicle, not the software and sensors.

Thanks for a blast from the past. I'd forgotten about PA auto inspections. One of the best jobs I had was running auto parts for a year. I loved it outside of the couple of weeks before each inspection period.

Sad to see the frame rot in 15 years. We get a lot of snow in this part of the country but they don't use corrosive chemicals so vehicles last.

 

[RunningBum]

^This^.

Remember the car you were driving 15 years ago? Did you feel unsafe back then while you were driving it? Didn't think so. If you are so concerned about the latest so called safety features you would have to get a new car almost every year. Some years you would have to replace your car mid year.

I don't have a lot of the latest safety features, but I do feel safer now backing up with a backup camera than I did without. Maybe I didn't realize then what I was missing, so how I felt then really isn't relevant. You don't have to use those safety features as replacements for checking your blind spots or staying in your lane, but rather as supplements to safety.

 

[W2R]

To me an old car that might leave me stranded is a bigger safety issue than a lot of the new car safety features

+1

Is there a part of town where you'd rather not be stranded? Trust me, life being as it is, that's probably where it will break down and leave you stranded.

Also an old car that is breaking all the time could *cause* an accident, because it may unexpectedly break and not perform as designed in an emergency situation.

Bear in mind that I am a female with zero interest in proving my chops as an auto mechanic, great interest in living to an old age, and I stick to buying new Toyotas for reliability. That said, here's my opinion:

Driving an extremely high mileage car says nothing whatsoever about you except;

1) you have to get your car running again at unpredictable, unexpected times when there actually might be something else you want or need to do, and

2) you think that's perfectly OK. And also,

3) you do not care about the safety of yourself, your passengers, or anyone else on the road. You'd as soon they all die.

It's not lack of new safety equipment that resulted in the New Orleans canals being full of old junker cars (often containing the bones of their driver). It doesn't matter how many sensors your car has if a wheel falls off or you have other catastrophic breakage in the middle of a turn.

As for the new safety equipment/standards, don't need them, don't want them, and I think often they encourage irresponsible driving. By that I mean that I completely agree with Winemaker when he said

Am I that lazy to not turn my head, or use a rear view mirror, and rely on a camera? Do I need lane wandering lights and alarms? Does my new truck really have to slow down automatically when the vehicle in front of me is not going the same rate of speed as me? I'm the licensed operator of the vehicle, not the software and sensors.

Keep your high mileage car if you need a project to feel happy, but don't drive it regularly; buy a new car for that.

Well, unless your financial situation is such that you cannot afford to spend more than about $15K/year on all expenses, and have no possibility of improved circumstances in the future. Even then I'd recommend selling your high mileage car and buying a bicycle.

 

[brewer12345]

I think W2R has her finger on it. When you get to the point that the car is not sufficiently reliable, it is time. But this yardstick varies. Our 2005 grocery getter minivan is unlikely to go out of state ever again. If it breaks down somewhere it will likely be within 10 miles of the house/our mechanic. Hardly the end of the world and since DD1 will have a license next year she would probably get a lesson in dealing with a mechanical issue (which has some value). Since it hasn't exhibited any signs of chronic problems, it will keep rolling.

The 2011 pickup is another story. This thing gets me into places where there is no cell signal for miles and I really, really would not want to be stuck. If it starts to show signs of constant problems my patience will be extremely limited.

 

[Rianne]

I've posted this in the past. Mileage has changed due to several trips:
-2004 Toyota Camry 292K miles. Runs great, looks good. The body has a similar design to newer cars. We spend @ $1000/yr to keep it healthy.

-1997 Toyota Camry 195K miles. Some rust, not bad. Runs fine.

If we buy another car to replace one of these, probably replace the 1997 Camry with a used car through Carmax.

 

[SmallCityDave]

Drive the car until it becomes consistently inconsistent or until there is a large repair bill.


Keeping up with the newest safety innovations can be costly as there are new safety features every year and at every price point (you can certainly "justify" a yearly upgrade in the name of safety) so how safe can you afford to be?



Many people on this forum buy into this marketing.

 

[teejayevans]

That car would have been gone at AC and heat don’t work. Also, I just can’t stand an oil leak. Worse than “get off my lawn” is “don’t leak on my driveway”.

Hopefully, you’re just joking with us.

Nope, but I do want to buy a new car. For now I park outside in a lot shared with a restaurant/bar, so the car takes a beating. Once I move I will upgrade to nicer transportation. The car only has $170k, but mostly city driving which is much tougher on the car.

 

[teejayevans]

+1

AC and Heat are non negotiable. My cars must have them. But leaking oil... its gotta go!!!

Kids today are so spoiled.

 

[YoungSaver]

After 3 engines and 3 transmissions, I'm done.

Want to buy a 2003 Honda Civic with 200k and a freshly rebuilt transmission?

 

[Llep]

After 3 engines and 3 transmissions, I'm done.

Want to buy a 2003 Honda Civic with 200k and a freshly rebuilt transmission?

How much to rebuild the transmission? My 1997 Integra no longer goes into 5th gear.

 

[RunningBum]

Drive the car until it becomes consistently inconsistent or until there is a large repair bill.


Keeping up with the newest safety innovations can be costly as there are new safety features every year and at every price point (you can certainly "justify" a yearly upgrade in the name of safety) so how safe can you afford to be?



Many people on this forum buy into this marketing.

Seems very presumptuous to say that just because many people buy new cars for reasons you don't that they are buying into marketing.

 

[bolt]

I've owned a handful of cars throughout my driving life (about 35 years) and have run them up to about 250k miles each before switching to a new car. The cars with this mileage have all been Volvos. Each time I switched cars, there was a repair that was going to cost more than the down payment and most of the first year's payments of a new(er) car.

I currently drive a 15 year old Volvo XC90 with about 258k miles on it... and the check engine light is on. Considering the cost of cars nowadays, the down payment + year's payments argument for changing out a car no longer apply. In other words, repairing the car and riding it longer is the most cost effective choice. I'm perfectly happy to keep repairing the car until there is a catastrophic end to its stability (transmission, engine block, etc) but I'm wondering if I'm foolish to run miles this high on a vehicle and remain confident that it just needs repairs to keep going. I'd love to push 300k or more miles on it but is there something I'm missing in my thinking that someone on this forum can enlighten me on? Are there any car enthusiasts or high mileage drivers here who can revise my argument to keep going with this steadfast Volvo?

Volvo's supposed safety & indestructibility is marketing*.
That falling off a cliff commercial yrs back was debunked as nonsense.
Remember VWs recent claims & marketing* fines?

Folks junking their cars just because of high milage & needed minor maintenance(not drivetrain related) puzzles me.

Check engine lights come on for blown fuses, loose gas caps and low tire pressure and other easily addressed nonsense.
I'd suggest you research its CEL thoroughly.
Good luck!

 

[braumeister]

Volvo's supposed safety & indestructibility is marketing*.
That falling off a cliff commercial yrs back was debunked as nonsense.

That's your opinion.

This Is What Happens When You Drive A Car Off A Cliff

VolvoSavedMyLife.com | Home

 

[Finance Dave]

A check engine light could be super cheap to fix (ex new gas cap), so while it might bring up the topic, a code scan and determination is needed to know if the repair is cheap or expensive.

We have a 21 yr old car for driving around town, but we do use the 4 yr old one for long trips as I don't trust the old one for long trips.

Cars are better built, so I think OP could use the 300K mileage as the new limit.

Be careful. A scan code is only the symptom, not the cause. If it says "left bank rich" and you replace the O2 sensor in the left side exhaust, it could be due to a plugged cat converter and you're out the repair money. I don't know of any reputable shop that will do a repair without their own diagnosis. yes you can have it scanned free at an auto parts store, but from there you need to be careful just swapping out parts or telling the garage what to replace.

Boy OP, you sure drive a lot lol. I average 7k miles/year lol. I used to be an auto mechanic, and to me the risk of being stranded or having the car break down before a critical meeting or soccer game or while on a vacation is not worth it. Do you have two cars? If so, fine to keep this one as a backup and keep fixing it, but if it's your main car I'd be getting something newer. If budget is a consideration, buy something 2-4 years old.

 

[mistershankly]

Boy OP, you sure drive a lot lol. I average 7k miles/year lol. I used to be an auto mechanic, and to me the risk of being stranded or having the car break down before a critical meeting or soccer game or while on a vacation is not worth it. Do you have two cars? If so, fine to keep this one as a backup and keep fixing it, but if it's your main car I'd be getting something newer. If budget is a consideration, buy something 2-4 years old.

I do love driving!! DW drives a 2019 XC90 so the 15yr old XC90 is the car that's paid off and used for in-city driving. Our driveway looks like a Volvo ad with the first year XC90 and the latest XC90. Long trips are via a rental car and the new XC90 is for days that I need to huff some new car smell

 

[Finance Dave]

I do love driving!! DW drives a 2019 XC90 so the 15yr old XC90 is the car that's paid off and used for in-city driving. Our driveway looks like a Volvo ad with the first year XC90 and the latest XC90. Long trips are via a rental car and the new XC90 is for days that I need to huff some new car smell

Ok, then I'd say try to fix the CEL, but as I said...be careful of the diagnosis!

 

[Sunset]

Be careful. A scan code is only the symptom, not the cause. If it says "left bank rich" and you replace the O2 sensor in the left side exhaust, it could be due to a plugged cat converter and you're out the repair money. I don't know of any reputable shop that will do a repair without their own diagnosis. yes you can have it scanned free at an auto parts store, but from there you need to be careful just swapping out parts or telling the garage what to replace.

....

You are correct, the scan codes sometimes are not precise about the issue, other times they claim one issue is wrong and the fix is one thing.
But it's free at some places to at least look up the code, and see what it is complaining about.

 

[brewer12345]

Yeah, to hedge our bets we will likely be in the market for a new/newish car next year. That will leave us with an oldie, and middle aged wonder, and a new car. Should be able to count on the new car without hesitation and the middle aged should be good as well for some time.