Your auto- what you're driving now

I find them pretty good-looking, too. The latest one has amazing gas mileage, but looks too much like a Geo Prism. :nonono:

DS drives a Geo Prism. He has learned to love it... 1995, about 215,000 miles on it, good gas mileage, the perfect car for delivering pizza! BTW, it is the same as a 1995 Toyota Corolla. Maybe that is why the similarity.
 
DS drives a Geo Prism. He has learned to love it... 1995, about 215,000 miles on it, good gas mileage, the perfect car for delivering pizza! BTW, it is the same as a 1995 Toyota Corolla. Maybe that is why the similarity.


Yeah, those Prism/Corollas were pretty bullet-proof. The model I was thinking of was actually the Geo Storm. I think it's the funky little trunk-lid that makes them look similar to me.

Geo Storm:
chevrolet_geo_storm_2773307_orig.jpg


Latest Prius:
Toyota-Prius-2017-6.jpg
 
Both, and it was a very noticeable boost in power, very. Checkout the power curves on unitronic.ca


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Even stage 1 gains are very impressive. You have a great handling pocket rocket.
 
holy carp that is a lot of tq gain! this car is just FWD right?
 
holy carp that is a lot of tq gain! this car is just FWD right?


Yes, it will chirp for sure. The dual clutch auto drivetrain is amazing as well, instant shifts and lays the power down nicely. Limited slip diff up front really makes it perfect powering out of corners.

Let me repeat, we got rid of a porsche cayman S for this, and are very happy we did. This gti (when loaded) has just the right amount of everything many could want from a car. It's _extremely_ deceiving to look at it from the outside.


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sleeper for sure - but I had to do a lot more to my 09 FXT for those kind of power gains

those aren't dyno gains those are crank hp/tq gains right?
 
sleeper for sure - but I had to do a lot more to my 09 FXT for those kind of power gains

those aren't dyno gains those are crank hp/tq gains right?


Probably crank, i dont know. Regardless, it puts the power down. I think going further than stage 1+ would just result in wheel spin and losing control if you put your foot down.


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definitely if you go with a bigger turbo

I'm running a vf52 on my 09 FXT and on my E85 toon I can do an AWD burnout if I power launch it
 
Picked up a 2013 Porsche 911 Carrera S Cabriolet in December 2015 coming off lease. I love paying cash for these 2-3 year old cars with low miles that someone else took the big it on


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My wife has a 1991 Pathfinder

I have the new car

a 1997 Acura Integra GS-R with about 130K on it. Since I FIRED I have only put about 2K miles on it...and about 5K on my bikes. So it will last a long time, though it does need a new clutch soon I think.
 
I'd like to see it before and after on a dyno

typically stage 1 OTS maps don't give that much gain, maybe 10-20 hp/tq
It's the "carp" that is fishy.
 
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I'm sure online dyno tests exist on youtube and such, have at it guys.


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Interesting thread. My new car is a 1994 Mercury Tracer wagon. When it goes out west to college with my youngest in a few weeks, my old car, a 1982 El Camino, will become my daily driver.
 
I hope you find something else to drive before winter.

Luckily, I live in a temperate region of central Iowa where the winters are typically mild, think San Diego. In the off chance of snow, I put a few sandbags in the bed and we are good to go. The terrain is also very flat, I wouldn't dream of winter driving in Colorado.
 
Luckily, I live in a temperate region of central Iowa where the winters are typically mild, think San Diego. In the off chance of snow, I put a few sandbags in the bed and we are good to go. The terrain is also very flat, I wouldn't dream of winter driving in Colorado.

I was cringing at the thought of driving a classic car on salted roads.
 
I was cringing at the thought of driving a classic car on salted roads.

That is a fair point. I bought the car a few years ago from the original owner. It's been driven on Iowa roads for over thirty years (less than 105k original miles) so there is some rust but it is fixable. My mechanic is coming over next week to identify what needs to be done to make the car winter weather roadworthy (aside from putting it on blocks until spring.) The carb needs a rebuild and the automatic choke is somewhat uncooperative in cold weather. Everything else is bodywork and interior.
 
Luckily, I live in a temperate region of central Iowa where the winters are typically mild, think San Diego.


Right now I'm thinking of a San Diego winter but somehow central Iowa doesn't come to mind. (And I say this as an old Nebraskan.) :)
 
I'd like to see it before and after on a dyno

typically stage 1 OTS maps don't give that much gain, maybe 10-20 hp/tq

Curious as to what the boost differential is between stock and stage 1 flash. Any how, seeing gains like this, I wonder if the compression needs to be lowered and the engine bottom end beefed up. I would also probably want a larger intercooler given those gains.
 
Curious as to what the boost differential is between stock and stage 1 flash. Any how, seeing gains like this, I wonder if the compression needs to be lowered and the engine bottom end beefed up. I would also probably want a larger intercooler given those gains.

The tuner's website usually has all the information on the tune's capabilities and any other changes/additions required to run the mapping. They also have dyno curves available to look at based on the tune and equipment on the car or after installed.

For my tune in my diesel, I had to put in a larger turbo, intercooler with more capacity, a 3 Bar MAP sensor, larger injector nozzles, some new intake plumbing and it was set to go. I increased my HP and Torque by about 50% over stock while maintaining about the same driveability and fuel mileage.

No internals needed to be changed in the engine. The next tune stage would have required forged connecting rods though.

I installed a Malone tune (out of Canada) and bought the upgraded parts from Kerma out of Colorado.
 
For my tune in my diesel, I had to put in a larger turbo, intercooler with more capacity, a 3 Bar MAP sensor, larger injector nozzles, some new intake plumbing and it was set to go. I increased my HP and Torque by about 50% over stock while maintaining about the same driveability and fuel mileage.

next move on my FXT is to do a header and bigger TMIC. I'll see if it can hold 25 psi. right now on e85 i hit 20psi when I get on it

I have all the other supporting mods - turbo, injectors, fp, etc
 
The tuner's website usually has all the information on the tune's capabilities and any other changes/additions required to run the mapping. They also have dyno curves available to look at based on the tune and equipment on the car or after installed.

For my tune in my diesel, I had to put in a larger turbo, intercooler with more capacity, a 3 Bar MAP sensor, larger injector nozzles, some new intake plumbing and it was set to go. I increased my HP and Torque by about 50% over stock while maintaining about the same driveability and fuel mileage.

No internals needed to be changed in the engine. The next tune stage would have required forged connecting rods though.

I installed a Malone tune (out of Canada) and bought the upgraded parts from Kerma out of Colorado.

I was referring to the VW's gas engine, not a diesel. I doubt these tuners are selling long term reliability regardless of what their website states, so that was the nature of my comment.
 
I was referring to the VW's gas engine, not a diesel. I doubt these tuners are selling long term reliability regardless of what their website states, so that was the nature of my comment.

Gas or diesel doesn't change the tune mission very much except that today's turbos on diesels do not have a waste gate but use a variable vane setup. No tuner I have talked to, and some tuners sell both diesel and gasoline engine tunes, really won't guarantee any reliability associated with engine internals.

However, they will not sell you a tune that they feel is detrimental to internal engine problems without warning you that you could compromise stock connecting rods or pistons (as an example).

Remember, the average "Joe" is not going to mess with advanced engine tuning as it is will void any factory warranty. This stuff is typically sold to enthusiasts.
 
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