In 10 years, will I think "I should have bought that solar panel system?"

1 . 30% Tax credit only applies to solar, not entire project.
2. Lot of money to save about 50 or 60 bucks a month.
3. I have radiant barrier. Never again. Roof leaks go undetected.
4. Look at ductless system if you are gonna throw that much into improving existing hvac.
5. One outfit doing all ? What are they experts at? I think I would get separate quotes.
6. Good luck with the 25 year warranty.


1. Interesting point. The wording says it also includes "installation costs", so it may be a little shady if they're going to claim the entire bill as an installation cost. I wonder if this is also why the seller uses language like "designing the system" and doesn't seem interested in disclosing specific component model numbers and prices.


2. I figured at first maybe 50% savings, or $100/mo. Which yes, is a lot of months to make that savings worth it. But given that power companies even have policies about giving credit back for excess energy produced on the grid, I think that a lone is indicating people really are entering that situation -- of saving like 90% of their electric cost, and even getting credit.

3. Do you have a lot of tree's? On a 2nd story here, and not a lot of tree's. But valid point, the gradient barrier is mostly static, but indirectly has a maintenance cost (as removing it for maintenance probably means replacement).

4. Will do! TY


5. Yes, one outfit -- but yes, they are managing the associated sub-contractors, coordinating the work and taking the responsibility if things go wrong (single point of contact to fix any part of the "system"). I think they try to justify the markup in price by this; they recognize that they "aren't cheap" because that's how they'll keep the doors open for 25+ years. I take it as a similar thing with Apple -- expensive products, that helps pays for a healthy longer term support network. Not trying to fully defend the concept, but they have been around 14 years (many solar shops probably have 10+ years now established).
 
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I think your point 5 is more likely how they’re camouflaging adding all those extras into the solar bundle and selling a 30% ‘discount’ in the form of tax savings. Add in all the people who will take their financing options and it can boost the average ticket price considerably.

I would suggest you carefully read the tax code. Certain items can be bundled in to a solar install and receive the credit, if they are a necessary part of the system (eg roof work), but I think the items you’re talking about are definitely pushing the envelope.
 
... My average usage is (for the past 3 years) roughly 2 KWH/month...

No. Even a bitty incandescent night bulb uses more than 2 kWh/month.

A 5W night bulb left on all the time uses 5 W x 24hrs/day x 30days/month = 3,600 Wh or 3.6kWh/month.
 
That's fair! We covered some that already: The 3 kW system by itself is 10 panels, or roughly $12K. My average usage is (for the past 3 years) roughly 2 KWH/month. ....

These numbers make no sense. Maybe it's a typo, but it's late and I'm not up to trying to decode what you wrote.

If you are serious about this, and really want help, provide good numbers.

Hint: @ roughly 10 cents per kWh, 2 kWh/month is about 20 cents per month. I don't know what you meant.



...

I also trust some of the testimonial from others (coworkers, friends) who have installed solar, and gotten down to $18 bill, or even gotten a credit due to producing more electricity than consume. ...

Meaningless until you know the full story on their numbers, and your numbers. This isn't about someone else's numbers, it's about your numbers.

... If my roof can physically fit 20 panels, then it doesn't really matter how inefficient the appliances are: the sun is providing free energy. ...

This thinking will not get you to a useful answer. The sun might be providing free energy, but you have to pay the installation costs to use it. So making that free energy useful is not free. It's like saying oil is free, cause it's in the ground you own. Oh, I need to build a driller (panels), pump (inverter), and refinery (grid connection or storage) to use it - now 'free' became expensive.


... Get the panels first, see if they actually help ....

You don't need to get them to see if they help. It can be calculated, quite easily for rough numbers.

-ERD50
 
....... My average usage is (for the past 3 years) roughly 2 KWH/month.....

Your first post on this thread threw me for a loop for a little bit, until I realized that you are missing a "K". You are meaning 2,000 KWHr/month, which could also be represented as 2k KWHr/month. You gave enough info in the first post for me to work backwards to figure out your intent. :)

Carry on!
 
Where I am, a 3kW system (10 panels of 300W each) will produce about 500 kWh/month in mid summer. In the mid winter, it drops to 300 kWh/month. That's for south-facing panels, tilted at 20 deg.

As mentioned in an earlier post, my house of 2,700 sq.ft. uses 2,600 kWh/month in August, dropping to 900 kWh/month in December.

That means to produce what I use, I would need 5x the panels in the summer, and 3x panels in the winter. I can fit 50 panels on my entire roof, but they would be facing all different directions, and impossible to mount due to the roof line.

PS. I currently have 20 panels with 5.5kW total rating. They are ground-mounted in the backyard, and are producing about 25 kWh/day. The production is below expectation even though they are facing south perfectly. It's because 1/2 of the panels are shaded by a neighbor's tree in the afternoon. In another month or two, the sun angle will change and the shading situation will improve. I hope to get closer to the theoretical output then.
 
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Hmm, I am going to look at your approach. My monthly electric usage does not amount to justify installing solar panels.


If you are on PG&E, because of the tiered rates, a 50% usage cut can mean an even bigger percent reduction in the bill amount because you're eliminating the most expensive kwhs.
 
That's fair! We covered some that already: The 3 kW system by itself is 10 panels, or roughly $12K. My average usage is (for the past 3 years) roughly 2 KWH/month.

You appear to be making a serious error in estimating how much energy your 3kW system will produce. The 3 kW represents the maximum power under a standard set of optimum conditions that your system will produce. But your system will rarely if ever attain that power level. In addition, for much of a 24 hr day it will be producing nothing at all. The 6.9 kW system on my Phoenix home produces between 12,000 and 13,000 kWh per year which averages to around 1,000 kWh a month. As you would expect, Phoenix is great for solar. You will be lucky to generate 550 kWh a month with your system. Google PVWatts and input your system numbers in their calculator to see what you might expect in the way of energy production.
 
Even in mid-summer when I have 15 hours of sunlight, because the sun angle changes through the day, it is equivalent to having only 5 to 6 hours of direct sunlight.

And so, 1 kW worth of panel will produce 5 to 6 kWh a day in the summer. And that is with south-facing panels with no shading.

Suppose you have sufficient batteries to store it to use through the night, that 5 kWh spreading over a 24-hour period means a meager 200W continuous load.

Lithium batteries for RV use are currently going for $500 to $1000 per kWh.
 
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OP: I will admit that I have not studied every post, but generally I think you are getting good advice. My impressions (from many years in project management):

There are too many ingredients in your soup and many of them look very expensive. You would not spend $40K on a car without doing extensive research. Get one or two more package quotations if you like but take the time to get quotations on the various ingredients from specialist vendors. The AC, water heater, radient barrier, etc. do not care that there might be solar panels on the roof and neither do the specialist companies that install them.

If you do find that one of the "bundled" ingredients in your bid is significantly overpriced, drop this vendor like a hot rock. Never do business with people that you know you cannot trust.

Re "25 year warranty" who is backing this warranty? An insurance company? Only the installing company? If the latter, your warranty position is "unsecured creditor." Has the company even been in business for 25 years?

The plural of "testimonial," like the plural of "anecdote," is not "data." First of all, confirmation bias makes people want to believe that they have done a good thing. Second, those who have sunk a bunch of money into solar and gotten far less than they were promised are not talking about it or posting about it.

Finally, don't do this stuff on the back of an envelope. If you don't know how to use Excel for present value calculations, then find someone who can help you. Even if you have to pay a little bit, you will almost certainly get it back by analyzing the ingredients in your soup individually and rejecting the ones that are bad investments.

Ignore all promises of savings that the salesperson will not put in writing. If no written promises, no deal.

Using your retirement money? Ack !!!!!!!!!

Re "hear me out ... " said repeatedly -- you already know this is a bad deal as structured. You are looking for someone to tell you it isn't. Not me.
 
Voidstar,

Think of the improvements you need (like replacing the HVAC), vs want (more comfort, less maintenance, lower energy costs); and evaluate the expected value of each improvement separately. And add in the air sealing to the "more comfort" list and explore its benefits. Like Scrapr, I added this to my 2018 HVAC replacement project and while it won't "pay for itself" for many years in $$, it will provide more comfort/enjoyment of my small home for the duration.

BTW, I live in CA, so my electric cost/kwh is higher in general and even with that I couldn't justify solar financially (the payback was just too long - with our relatively temperate climate and my small ~1400sf home, my avg electric bill was only ~$125/mo).

If I were considering your project list, I'd focus on the HVAC, air sealing, additional insulation, and circulating fan. And do the simple stuff to reduce your energy usage on top of this (LED lights, smart thermostat, sealing the ducts - if they don't need replacement, and other basics) before considering solar. Focus on what will make the most of your investments.

If after all of this, it appears that solar could make things even better....and if, with the credit, it meets your value proposition, then go for it. I'd prioritize though, and take it one step at a time.

Also, not to criticize your contractor, but if they recommended you spend $4k for a hot water heater, you definitely need to consider if they are considering the value proposition for you...or just thinking "how much can I convince this guy to spend". If they otherwise have a good reputation, maybe you should ask them which parts make the most sense financially. Maybe couch it in a "I don't think I'm willing to spend that much for all this, which of the project components do you think will provide the most value to me financially?" and see if they give you some good insights. They might actually suggest you focus on a few of the items, and that you go directly to the subs to save additional $$.

NL
 
... if they recommended you spend $4k for a hot water heater, you definitely need to consider if they are considering the value proposition for you...or just thinking "how much can I convince this guy to spend". If they otherwise have a good reputation, ...
I disagree strongly with this. "Trustworthy" is like "pregnant." Either you are or you aren't. In this context IMO the rule should be "One strike and you're out."
 
Generally, I'd agree; but I've had contractors who were very honest and modified their approach once they understood that as a decision maker, my focus was on value rather than convenience or getting the newest/sexiest.
 
The downside of having a hard rule is that you might disqualify a contractor unnecessarily. Impact on you: near zero. The downside of not having a rule is that you might continue to work with a contractor who really was not trustworthy. Impact on you: potentially significant. Plus you have the pain of questioning and trying to fact-check all recommendations and prices.
 
Thanks all! I've canceled the project - I couldn't find any variable speed 20+ SEER HVAC for over $10K anywhere on the net, and they wanted to charge $15K! I'm ok with a company making a profit -- but margins needs to be in the 2-10% range, not over 50%. [ and that wasn't the only component with substantial market - and their argument that the 30% tax credit covers the markup, I find insulting ]


Also, apologies on the typos on the units that confused the discussion. I've been staring at the numbers a lot and took it for granted of certain units being obvious. Yes, 2 KWH meant 2000 KWH, as (clearly) no one is using only 2 KWH/mo. Attached is my usage so far this year as a reference.


And yes, a 3000 KWH solar system doesn't mean it takes care of all your electricity needs - I do trust the physics, in that it does it mean it *could* generate that much electricity. But just as the panels themselves have a certain efficiency (18-22%), the system overall also has an efficiency percentage: it is not producing 24/7. And even when producing, the efficiency changes over seasons (sun tilt angle) and years (degraded components over time by being fully exposed to hot/cold temperature variations; storm damage, etc).


The cases I've read of achieving the "free electricity" do tend to be the $30K+ systems involving 30+ panels. And yes, it's contingent on the arrangement with the corresponding power company -- if you can get a credit on the amount of surplus that the system produces. But the form of that credit is a bit nebulous (i.e. not all power companies are consistent in how the surplus is credited back to you).


That said, I do think it is possible for conditions to exist that tapping into a 401K briefly makes sense (outside of gambling on bitcoin! :LOL: no no, don't do that, the risk of retiring homeless is too great ). That condition might be: you pay back into your 401K a loan quickly, such that you end up putting back into the 401K more than you otherwise would have AND whatever you used the loan for ends up in reducing or eliminating an expense (e.g. a more efficient home; be it buying one or improving one). But it's certainly not a sure bet, it's an investment opportunity with risk like all others.


While I've canceled this particular job, I'll still look into similar options. For example, the $20K towards 30 panels (9000 KWH) case, and improving the other components myself over the years.


In my view, the individual panels should run around $300 (I see a range of $78 to $495 on the web -- so I pick a "reasonable quality" average of $300, with even that being a tad high). So even if you double that price to account for frame, wiring, inverters, insurance, tax, install, etc. a 30 panel system is $18K. Add a because-other-people-need-to-eat markup, then the $25K range isn't so unreasonable (plus extra costs associated with the actual power grid connection, which yes may involve some permits, i.e. a couple grand). Tax credit that 30%, and things really might start to make sense... I'll mull it over further.


@OldShooter: I *knew* you'd catch onto the "hang in there" comments! :) That's awesome, because yes my gut feel was that it was a sketchy deal -- and I'm glad I asked about it, the perspectives have been great. Clearly good discipline and fairly-proven-successful-retirement-plans include never touching those plans until the proper time/age. So my comment was more towards getting over the expected knee-jerk reaction of "nope, that's not how it's done" taboo. Good practice is also doing things that eliminate expenses, and applying a solar option is (potentially) one of those things -- but it's a lot of factors to consider, as this discussion reveals.
 

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Old Shooter,

All true (of course). And for a potential $40k project, I'd also be considering multiple contractor proposals - so questioning/fact checking to learn/evaluate the differing proposals anyway. This is something I always found worthwhile when preparing for what to me were larger home improvement projects. Looks like Voidstar is going to be moving on in his research, so my prior comments seem no longer applicable.

Best, NL
 
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... While I've canceled this particular job, I'll still look into similar options. For example, the $20K towards 30 panels (9000 KWH) case, and improving the other components myself over the years. ...
Yes. Eat the elephant a bite at a time. Any of the ideas in that project plan may be a worthwhile investment, but the only way to know is to do some present value calculations under different sets of payback assumptions and after getting competitive bids so the up front cost is fairly well known. Good luck!
 
Void...
Glad to hear your decision. I'll bet you find a better solution. Some more unsolicited advice
1. Consider the age of your roof before putting solar panels on it.
2. If you do move fwd get in writing if you can a price for removing and replacing the panels in case of any need.
3. Ck online for any residential solar advocacy group in your area.
4. Talk to solar pv system owners.
5. See if your electric company does a free or low cost energy audit.

I have a 9.4 kw PV system and in the process of adding 2.7 kw more in conjunction with having a tile roof replaced. I have a similar size home with pool and separate hot tub. The additional panels will save an avg of a bit more than 40 bucks a month. My original solar contractor total price for removing and replacing all panels and adding 9 more was less than quotes I received for just removing and replacing the existing panels. Fm
 
I would look into insulation first, do in steps also and you can track any savings.

I looked into energy audits, the free ones are worth what you sre paying for them,
Find one with a heat camera and blower test.

After those tests they will tell you to add more insulation.
 
I would look into insulation first, do in steps also and you can track any savings.

I looked into energy audits, the free ones are worth what you sre paying for them,
Find one with a heat camera and blower test.

After those tests they will tell you to add more insulation.

In Florida some power companies do them for no charge. Interestingly our guy said don't waste your money on new energy efficient windows. (We did replace some with impact/energy efficient. )
 
In Florida some power companies do them for no charge. Interestingly our guy said don't waste your money on new energy efficient windows. (We did replace some with impact/energy efficient. )
That would be the free part, add in some useful testing and it costs money.
 
Just for reference, the highest priced AC I could find is about $8500 (installed). That's consistent with this article:
https://www.pickhvac.com/central-air-conditioner/american-standard/

While this article lists $6400, read the fine print referring to some markets having addition regulation overhead of ~$2000. Fine; add even 10% tax to that, and I still can't break $10K. Does American Standard sell some exclusive gold plated AC units?


Here's an attic fan for ~$500:
https://www.amazon.com/Solar-Attic-...lar+attic+fan&qid=1562310266&s=gateway&sr=8-3



Then radiant barrier: (which I'd only need about ~$400 worth)

https://www.radiantguard.com/produc...MIhuKK2Jud4wIVB7zACh2LtwcNEAQYASABEgJ-F_D_BwE

Stapling down to the inner corners of the ceiling will require some talent.


And so on... They also claim to be able to offer a discount since they stockpile these parts (buy them in bulk). This looks like markup to me, not a discount.



One main questions I don't have answered is:

Are Texas power rates about to "sky rocket" ?

Apparently a California based company (San Diego) Sempra has purchased a major stake in Oncor (a major power distribution facilitator based in Dallas) last year. Add this to the list of things that Warren Buffet couldn't do (at least he did try, eh?) :)

https://www.dallasnews.com/business...-can-spend-945-billion-buy-dallas-based-oncor

https://www.sempra.com/newsroom/pre...-completes-acquisition-majority-stake-oncor-0



This isn't the right forum for that kind of question - but I think the point is: it's another variable in the model. I assumed a normal 2.5% inflation on cost of energy. When I first moved to Texas 18 years ago, electrical cost were higher (much higher, noticeably higher -- the inflation model would have been very wrong).


Trying to buy solar panels after the rate has vastly increased, that could be like Video Cards in Dec. 2017 ! (I was at Fry's Electronics that fateful week, and they were literally removing the high end cards from the shelves; to accommodate the online orders at the ridiculous inflated prices) That scenario applied to solar panels could be a stretch - but could this Sempra artificially raise prices in Texas to offset their costs in CA ?


Then there is EV. The impacts are pretty dramatic. It's a transitional period, sure; but another contributor to substantial increased of power demand (beyond my own control).

https://medium.com/oil-consumption-...vehicles-2030-an-impact-analysis-f930c8269c07
 
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July in Texas. Why are hvac units pricey? There's the answer. Take 4-6 months to research, and find three contractors to bid on your work. Most around here have three offerings on a manufacturer and models. There are threads where others have discussed hvac and their research and process.
 
I would think you could skip the radiant barrier and solar fan.
Solar panels mounted on the sunny side of the roof will block the sun
A properly vented roof should not need help, eve ventilation and ridge vent sized for the area should handle it.
 
I did not read the entire thread yet, but want to add my comment on 25 year warranty. My home has windows that had a long warranty. I don't remember if 20 or more years. I do know that after 8 years some seals failed and the windows needed replacing. The company with the warranty had gone out of business -- so the warranty was worthless. YMMV (sorry if someone else has already made this comment)
 
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