Photographer's Corner - equipment

[Peter]

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Originally Posted by Chuckanut How about 14mm? Olympus M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO Lens B&H Photo Video

Or this one:

Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm f/4.0 ASPH. Lens - H-F007014 B&H

[Mr. Paul]

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Originally Posted by RonBoyd This is a (very) lengthy treatise on sensor size (and I suggest you don't trudge through it all) but #4 will dispute your contention. https://photographylife.com/sensor-c...nd-equivalence

This is a discussion of equivalent focal length and does nothing to dispute a contention that larger sensor size provides better IQ. Yes there are differences working with a larger sensor (depth of field the one that took the most getting used to for me) but that is a different discussion.

[RonBoyd]

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Originally Posted by Mr. Paul This is a discussion of equivalent focal length and does nothing to dispute a contention that larger sensor size provides better IQ. Yes there are differences working with a larger sensor (depth of field the one that took the most getting used to for me) but that is a different discussion.

Okay, you got me.

However, when I looked up the Equivalency data in my above post I used Ken Rockwell's website. I noticed he had an review on the Canon 7D Mark II .

Way down at the bottom he includes eleven versions of the same shot -- ranging from ISO 100 to ISO 51,200.

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The absolutely awesome lesson here is that even at the completely insane ISO of 51,200, it still looks fine for online use. The biggest issue is that the shadows are not quite as dark and contrasty as at the almost as insane ISO of 25,600, but if you need ISO 51,200 for some project, go for it:

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What you'll see here, like all digital cameras today, is that noise isn't the problem at high ISOs. Noise reduction does a great job of smearing-over the noise, which also smears-over the textures and detail at the same time. What you'll see is that most of the finer parts of the image are simply erased as the ISOs climb into sillytown. Noise isn't the problem; the real question is how far you can enlarge images made at foolish ISOs before the softness becomes obvious. Look at the grain in the wood: it simply goes away as the ISOs increase. Camera noise reduction does a great job of keeping the noise from rising and saving sharp edges; what you lose is subtle textures.

He concludes with:

The "Technical Image Quality of the 7D Mark II being "Very Good" while the 5D Mark III and the 1D X are "Excellent."

On the other hand: On "Technical Image Quality, typical ambient arena/gym/pool lighting" the 7D is "Very Good" and the other two are "Poor."

[RonBoyd]

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Originally Posted by RonBoyd However, since Photoshop makes creating a panorama so easy and quick, it is not the issue it used to be.

And for those without access to Photoshop:

Best Free Panorama Software

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The best thing is that you really don’t have to know much about photography in order to create panoramic images; you just have to keep a few simple rules in mind when taking photos. ... There are several different programs that I have used to create panoramic photos, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

[Ronstar]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RonBoyd And for those without access to Photoshop: Best Free Panorama Software

Thanks for posting!

[audreyh1]

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Originally Posted by RonBoyd Yes, that's what I said earlier about the "up-close and far-away" issue. However, since Photoshop makes creating a panorama so easy and quick, it is not the issue it used to be. Nevertheless, with my walking-around-lens (a Tamron 16-300mm) it is an irritant (occasionally) that the 16mm captures only what a 26mm lens on a FF camera can -- particularly when lining up the second shot is difficult or the scene is moving. On the other hand, the 300mm end is the same as a 486mm. So maybe it balances... certainly the cost of that 10mm difference weighs heavily in favor of the APS-C.

Panoramas so easy and quick? Not really - even with the massive improvements it's still a lot of trouble taking and processing multiple shots. Trouble I usually only take for a large outdoor scene on an HDR situation.

[ERD50]

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Originally Posted by audreyh1 Panoramas so easy and quick? Not really - even with the massive improvements it's still a lot of trouble taking and processing multiple shots. Trouble I usually only take for a large outdoor scene on an HDR situation.

I've used the HUGIN panorama tool in Linux, and it was very easy, and the results were fantastic even with the handheld shots I used. I just clicked with the defaults and it did all the work.

-ERD50

[Ronstar]

Do you take all of your shots from the same position, or do you move left and right to take additional shots?
I tried a pano a long time ago and the photo looked like it came out of a fisheye lens

[explanade]

If you take a wide enough shot, there will be a distortion of perspective.

I just took a pano with my iPhone of the Brooklyn Bridge and Manhattan skyline and the bridge curves because the pano is over 180 degrees.

[RonBoyd]

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Originally Posted by audreyh1 Panoramas so easy and quick?

Here is a Video from 2012 that shows how easy peasy it was in PS CS6. The newer versions of LR (v7.51) and PS (2014) make it even faster/better. I know it is 17 minutes long but you can skip directly to about 7:40 for the actual hand-off to PS.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qVMnkF7W60

[RonBoyd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronstar Do you take all of your shots from the same position, or do you move left and right to take additional shots? I tried a pano a long time ago and the photo looked like it came out of a fisheye lens

See the video I posted on how that is compensated for.

Of course, it is better if you keep away from very short lens... but that is not always possible in a confined space. But keep in mind that a photo taken is always better than one that is not.

[Chuckanut]

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Originally Posted by Peter Or this one: Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm f/4.0 ASPH. Lens - H-F007014 B&H

Yes. There is such a huge variety of M4/3 lenses at various price ranges. Very nice.

[photoguy]

I love taking panorama shots (via stitching) but I find that there's a huge variance in how easy is it process. In many cases it's literally a press of a button but if something goes wrong it can be very time consuming to fix (if you can fix it at all).

Parallax error, subject motion, fast changing light, architecture (when you want straight lines to be really straight and vertical/horizontal) can make it difficult to create the panorama without artifacts. I've also had panorama's ruined because one image in the series was blurry (maybe due to wind). There's a reason why the market supports specialized panorama heads that cost hundreds of dollars (one head from RRS I'm looking at runs ~$700).

If you need to do HDR/focus stacking on top of the panorama stitching then it's even more time consuming.

I actually don't like photoshop for panoramas (except for flat stitching). I use Autopano Pro and I think that and PTGui are considered among the best software for stitching. PTGUI started out as a GUI for panorama tools (which the open source Hugin also uses).

[explanade]

There's also a motorized head that will automate the shooting.

[audreyh1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERD50 I've used the HUGIN panorama tool in Linux, and it was very easy, and the results were fantastic even with the handheld shots I used. I just clicked with the defaults and it did all the work. -ERD50

Still a lot more trouble than simply having a full-frame with wide angle lens and a single auto exposed and focused image.

[audreyh1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RonBoyd Here is a Video from 2012 that shows how easy peasy it was in PS CS6. The newer versions of LR (v7.51) and PS (2014) make it even faster/better. I know it is 17 minutes long but you can skip directly to about 7:40 for the actual hand-off to PS. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qVMnkF7W60

I have done loads of panoramas in Photoshop over the years, even back when it really was "hard". I still don't consider them easy - especially doing a good job of exposing the multiple images in the field. Maybe I'm just complaining about the hassle factor. First step - switch to manual exposure. Then you've got to make sure you have a reasonable exposure so none of the images are blown out. That takes some time and care in the field. Might have to use manual focus too - better pay attention. Then dealing with multiple images is always a hassle and creates large resulting files.

[explanade]

I actually like the panos with the iPhone.

The ones with the DSLR, I've taken but the end result is a JPG anyways and I have to worry about people moving into one or more of the frames, having the same exposure, etc.

The smart phones take care of all of this in the software, though there are some point and shoots which also do the sweep panoramas too.

Imagine if they could combine the software innovations of phones with the sensor and optics of dedicated cameras, rather than depending on the conservative camera manufacturers to bring the software innovations.

[RonBoyd]

16 universal truths

While written for Beginners, this article points out it doesn't hurt to be reminded of certain basics:

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3. You’ll spend more time hunched at your computer than you thought you would Editing photographs – choosing the best pictures from a shoot and then processing them – takes time. More time than most non-photographers appreciate.

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5. Photographers are magnetic Wherever you are in the world, if you pull a DSLR and decent-sized lens out in public you will attract other photographers.

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13. … Oh, and there’s never a good time to buy camera gear Naturally, there are ways to save money on new photo equipment, but the notion that there’s always something better around the corner can put you off from making a new purchase interminably. It’s the same with all areas of technology though – you can just play the waiting game and end up never buying anything. Just think of all the pictures you’ll be missing though…

[RonBoyd]

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Originally Posted by photoguy Well I've decided to look for a replacement for my canon 5d II.

Interesting video on "Which Canon Full Frame Camera is For You?" He compares the three Canon FF cameras (and throws in the 7D Mk II for comparison). He does a really good job of being balanced... including his recommendation to hold off until sometime in the 1st qtr of 2015.

(FWIW, I agree with him about the battery grip. I had one on the 7D and the first thing I noticed about the Mark II was how clumsy it was -- it has the same dimensions as the 6D & 5D. I bought a battery grip and now the camera feels like an extension of my hands.)

Oh! And he gives a Link in which he does the same type of comparison with Nikon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYWppbbnYMw

[RonBoyd]

(I wasn't sure which "Photography" thread to put this but finally decided it is an "equipment" issue.)

Know where the sun is or will be at any time and any place:

Morning, Noon, Night: Planning Photos Made Easy with SunCalc

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The sun’s position in the sky plays a huge roll in the kind of light available to work with. If it’s just below the horizon everything will have a beautiful blue cast. If it’s at it’s zenith it will create harsh shadows. Knowing what the sun will do in advance makes planning a lot easier. The earth tilts on its axis as it circles the sun. This is what creates the seasons. While the sun will always rise in the east and set in the west, how easterly it rises and westerly it sets depends on the time of year. Some images can only be captured at certain times of the year.

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SunCalc is an awesome tool for all kinds of photographers. If I have a particular image I want to get—especially if it’s at sunrise or sunset—I use SunCalc to work out when and where I need to be to get it. SunCalc’s ability to look at future dates is one of its best features. During the summer I found I wasn’t able to get the photo I wanted but I was able to look ahead and see that I’d be able to get it during the winter.

I took me a moment to realize that this is a Web-based App (which means it could, theoretically, disappear at any moment) but does make it available no matter where you are.

If you only want to see it in action, you can go directly to the 1 minute 20 second video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iImv6TLpEIg