Surfing Safari is a Blast

[Fireup2020]

While in SB, check out the SB Brewing Co. Nice beer selection, and the food was impressive Enjoying your trip vicariously!

[ronin]

Al, here's the report for early next week. It looks promising... they get the west swell down south pretty well.

***
Monday the 20th is when our next southern hemi swell is due, and we could also see some hurricane swell around this time. The southern hemi is from a storm that formed recently southwest of Chile that's been traveling northward along the coastline of South America. These kinds of storms, while pushing surf towards Central America, usually don't work well for us. This one though has remained far enough off the Chilean coast to throw some swell our way—but don't get too excited just yet. This swell will be angled steep from 160-170 degrees, which immediately eliminates many surf spots in SoCal, especially north of LA. The energy will likely be sporadic with infrequent sets. South facing breaks able to work this angle can expect waist to chest high waves. Periods will also be rather long (16-18 seconds), so there will no doubt be disparity in size between breaks of varying bathymetry. Breaks with steeper bathymetry that shoal well and refract the southerly energy ideally will see bigger sets than the slower sloped, longboard-type breaks.
This though may not be the only swell in the water. As mentioned earlier, Monday the 20th could also see some tropical activity. This is still based on long-range models, but we've broken down the specifics in the Tropical Outlook section below.
Tuesday the 21st could prove to be an interesting surf day along the California coast. The 72h+ models place a hefty storm in the Gulf of Alaska on a beeline for the Oregon coast. Simulations say this would slam the Oregon and Washington coasts with at least 20-foot surf, which is hard to believe given that this is August and not January. Still, models seem convinced on this unseasonable scenario this morning. This could mean SoCal could see some 290- 300-degree energy with 11-13 second periods making for highly consistent, chest to head high waves around west facing breaks. This whole scenario seems surreal though given the time of year and all, and basing this on 72h+ models, we'll definitely need a few more days to see how this all plays out.
***

[JonnyM]

I just keep updating your blog to see what trouble you've gotten yourself into...
Great read

...and you should apply for Andy Rooney's job on 60min. He can't live forever (ouch!)

You RANT with the best 'o'em

[Fireup2020]

Poor Al,

Just read your blog. Very dismal campground. No privacy - and all the problems you described. I am a car camper too - try to only go to the wooded state parks - a ways away from the "facilities" - no electric stuff. No more than two coolers (one for drinks, one for food) Some of us still believe in chat-n-chew campfires with no music, camping where there is no cell phone service/wifii, and maybe mountain bikes and kayaks for "recreational" vehicles. There is still some hope

[ronin]

I haven't camped at San Onofre in a long time, but it's not one of the great state parks for peace and quiet or natural beauty, being hard by the 5 FWY. But it does possess numerous trails which lead down the bluffs to very nice secluded beaches. Whether it's camping or just going out in the front yard and experiencing my rapidly devolving 3rd world neighborhood, I am convinced people have turned into self-centered a$$holes in general, myself excluded naturally.

[yakers]

Trombone Al made it down to Malibu where my wife & I were able to meet him for lunch. No real opportunity to get the kayak out in the waves but plenty to talk about over lunch. Just a wonderful day to be in Malibu, retired or working.

yakers

[chinaco]

Nice pics Al.

We made a similar trip a few years ago minus the surfing.

You are doing exactly what I want to do in ER... take leisurely trips.

The blog site is great. Thanks for sharing your adventure.

[TromboneAl]

Quote:

I haven't camped at San Onofre in a long time, but it's not one of the great state parks for peace and quiet or natural beauty, being hard by the 5 FWY.

I'm actually in the San Mateo campground, which is up in the hills a bit. The blog has details.

I really enjoyed meeting Yakers and his beautiful wife.

I'm nursing a sore ankle today (see blog), but plan to surf this afternoon.

[califdreamer]

I'm enjoying the blog, Al. Hope the ankle held out well for you at San Onofre today. Are you surfing "Trestles"?

[Martha]

So you solve the sunscreen issue yet?

[Dreamer]

I am enjoying your blog and pictures. Keep posting!

[happy2bretired]

I'd like to know how you manage to take such great pictures of yourself. Are you doing all of them with the camera's timer or grabbing people off the street to help you out?

[TromboneAl]

Trestles: I'll probably surf San-O again tomorrow; it was very good today. It takes a while to get the hang of a new break, so I want to take advantage of that. I'll call you tonight, Dreamer.

Sunscreen problem: I just wear my rash guard now. I use Neutrogena SPF 70 on my face and ears. That seems to be doing a good job. I'm out there four hours at a time.

Pictures of myself: I always use the tripod and the timed release. I think passersby don't take such good pictures, and often don't hold the shutter down halfway to focus.

Thanks for the feedback on the blog! Now to update it some more...

[Nords]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TromboneAl Thanks for the feedback on the blog! Now to update it some more...

I'm really enjoying your travails travels, Al. I especially liked your "Camping is Dead" post; I thought that was just a Hawaii problem. Bummer.

I'm curious-- do you see blogging as a one-time event or a lifestyle addition?

[TromboneAl]

Quote:

I'm curious-- do you see blogging as a one-time event or a lifestyle addition?

Addition or addiction?

No, I don't think my normal life is interesting enough for a blog. "Today I napped for a whole hour..."

[Martha]

When you say you surfed for 4 hours, exactly what does that entail? How many rides in? How much paddling out? How much laying on your board bs'ing with the locals? How do you deal with the crowds?

Just curious.

[TromboneAl]

Quote:

When you say you surfed for 4 hours, exactly what does that entail? How many rides in? How much paddling out? How much laying on your board bs'ing with the locals? How do you deal with the crowds?

It depends on the waves. If they are small, and come in distinct sets, it can mean a lot of BSing with the locals. There's a lot of talking going on, and a lot of groups of friends. I'll usually get 20+ rides.

Crowds on the waves haven't been bad. Things got a little territorial this morning with some shortboarders.

I'm updating the blog now...

[Nords]

Nice classic VW, Al, but take a look at the fin on that board-- how old did that board look? Or was it just a classic design made of modern materials?

[TargaDave]

Al,
Great blog and pic's. My arms would have been toast after 13 straight days of surfing. Once again inspired to get my butt back on the water for an extended time period

[TromboneAl]

Thanks for the feedback. Got back today, and boy are my arms tired. Good to be back. Left San Diego Saturday morning, early.

Attachment 2699

I've updated the blog, but will add an epilogue soon.

I think that was a classic board, not a "reproduction." It was actually pretty junky up close, and had been around the block.