Thanks, all. Any more PAers out there? Please write.
I've lived primarily around Philadelphia, and I don't think the bustle is what you're looking for. On the bright side, the tax structure of Philadelphia county is good for a retiree. There are relatively low property taxes (mine are around .5% of property value) and high city wage tax (around 4% I think), so it works out well if you don't have a wage. The highways are a mess, however, if you do much commuting in or out of the city (especially on 76).
Philadelphia is a unique city, in my opinion, because the different areas of the city cannot easily be lumped together. You have general regions like the northeast, art museum area, south philly, north philly, west philly, downtown, etc, having different character. But the pockets of neighborhoods each have their own flavor, and it changes even as walk only a handful of blocks.
If you're looking for a bit of land to spread out on, I wouldn't recommend a direct Philly suburb. You wind up with the traffic, high property taxes of the suburbs, etc, without the positive qualities you're looking for. Personally, I'll probably look to get a house somewhere up in the poconos. There are a number of reasonably priced lake communities that I've visited, but I've yet to take the plunge. If you do consider that route, I would recommend renting first, as you want to make sure you don't unintentionally buy in a ghost-town of vacation homes that are vacant 9 months a year.