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Old 09-30-2018, 08:38 PM   #2341
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At the risk of starting a flame session, what brand of mower is this?
It's a 2007 model Toro Timecutter Z zero-turn radius. I've been happy with it but at 11 years old it's starting to need some attention now and then. Nothing too major; the engine and transmission have been problem-free although I had to replace the muffler a month ago, which is apparently a common problem. The new muffler came with the point that failed on the old one significantly reinforced so I hope it lasts at least another 11 years.

I suspect the problem I had with pulley failures was due in part to the inch-thick layer of matted grass I let build up on the underside for several years, leading to corrosion. I won't be doing that again.
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:41 PM   #2342
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I spent last week trying to keep an old Ford tractor hanging together. I ran it for several days moving scrap metal into a 20 ft bin. A major leak in the power steering only required tightening fitting. A leak in one front loader hose required replacing the hose. About the time we finished, it developed a leak in the gas line. That will need some closer looks at another time. 5 tons of scrap to the recycle yard. It was a good week.
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:45 PM   #2343
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My washer didn’t work last night. My husband initially didn’t know why. I suggested the good old fashion EE solution of turning the power off and then back. That work a little bit, but it’s slow. It turns out he finally located the right manual online and it’s said to hold the power off for at least 5 minutes. Thank goodness it worked in the end.
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Old 10-01-2018, 09:08 PM   #2344
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The keyless remote quit working in our 11 Chevy Equinox. I figured time for a battery , but no. DWs quit too. Oh crap, must be the receiver. I check YouTube etc and find a post on the DIY forum that looks promising. It seems there is a micro switch in the ignition key cylinder that disables the remote if it gets stuck. Fixed it with a shot of WD40.
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Old 10-01-2018, 09:12 PM   #2345
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I am embarrassed-after putting up with the pipes outside knocking when the drip irrigation comes on, I bought a water hammer gadget. I installed it, and it seemed to do the job for a while, but then quit.

I went on line and found a better one, and when it arrived, I read the directions. It specifically said it should be the same size as the pipe. Well the only one my local hardware store had at the time was a 1/2 inch one, so I got a reducer and installed it. When the new one came, which is for 3/4 inch pipe, I immediately tossed the small one and its reducer.

The new one is about 4 times the size of the old one, and works great!.
Checked it out today, and DW is very happy not to hear tha hammer any more
Remember- happy wife Happy life
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Old 10-03-2018, 04:24 PM   #2346
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Our shower drain was clogged for some reasons. My husband put drown some Draino and decided to pull out some hair on the top, it turns out he was able to pull out lots of long hair. The two kids just came back to visit us, they all used our shower because of the rain shower., they are the ones with super long hair.

So that’s our fixed for the day.
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Old 10-04-2018, 06:23 PM   #2347
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In the midst of staining all of our teak furniture. Definitely time consuming but I really get to see the fruits of my labor when done. All of the nooks and crannies on the furniture can be a pain! I use Star Brite teak stain which I like a lot.
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Old 10-04-2018, 06:45 PM   #2348
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In the midst of staining all of our teak furniture. Definitely time consuming but I really get to see the fruits of my labor when done. All of the nooks and crannies on the furniture can be a pain! I use Star Brite teak stain which I like a lot.
How about some pictures?
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Old 10-04-2018, 07:25 PM   #2349
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How about some pictures?


Here you go. The steamer chair shows a bit of the before look while the Adirondack is closer to completion. I did a heavy duty cleaning, sanding a couple of years back which was a heavier job.IMG_0251.JPGIMG_0249.JPG
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Old 10-10-2018, 10:09 PM   #2350
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Not exactly a repair, but a customization....My Highlander has two power points, aka cigarette lighter sockets, and both are switched with the ignition. I wanted one to be constantly powered but wasn't looking forward to taking apart the instrument panel to get to the wiring. I found a neat trick on the Toyota forum using two fuse taps to tap one always-on circuit and feed the power point circuit with the second fuse tap. Once I established which terminals were which it was an easy plug and play job.



This is what they look like.
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:43 PM   #2351
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Last road trip, oncoming truck tossed a rock in our windshield and cracked it. Replacement covered by insurance thru Safelite but not for an OEM windshield. Mercedes dealer said that many times Safelite glass comes to them scratched and today mine was no exception. They called Safelite and was authorized to use OEM windshield which is what we wanted all along but did not want to pay extra.
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Old 11-11-2018, 10:50 PM   #2352
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Got my toad running again, after working on it on/off for 2 weeks. At one point, the engine looked like this.

It's a bit of work. I did a few jobs like this when I was younger (and poorer), and thought I was done with this kind of work now. But seeing aja8888 and his RV and genset repairs, and he being more than a decade older, I could not slack off and tried to keep up.



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Old 11-12-2018, 04:15 PM   #2353
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Got my toad running again, after working on it on/off for 2 weeks. At one point, the engine looked like this.

It's a bit of work. I did a few jobs like this when I was younger (and poorer), and thought I was done with this kind of work now. But seeing aja8888 and his RV and genset repairs, and he being more than a decade older, I could not slack off and tried to keep up.




That is a lot of work to accomplish in two weeks.....and it runs, good job!
Hope there aren't too many leftover parts that go way down there somewhere .

Kinda looks like the mirrored image of a Honda CR-V -(serpentine drive belt should be on the passenger side).
I am aware of one known problem that could lead to this much work - the camshafts of some model year Hondas received a faulty heat treatment leading to excessive wear of the roller/lobe interface especially on the exhaust cam.
At this stage (photo), I usually go ahead and service or replace hard to access components like the water pump and starter etc.., no sense in revisiting in a year or two.
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Old 11-12-2018, 07:55 PM   #2354
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This is one of those ultra-satisfying "repairs", one where my tenacity really paid off. This all started with a "financial review" with DW yesterday and agreement to burn some cash in the next 3 years on some home improvements, things that MUST be fixed before we sell. We have a large 4 season sunroom out back with 9 pairs of sliding glass doors. 5 or 6 of the panels (insulated, double pane panels) have "leaked" and are foggy and grey on the inside. So I had agreed to start looking into the cost of replacing them. On my Monday morning do-list was to call a few window and glass shops an see if I could get someone over for a quote. Set up 2 appts. for tomorrow.

Then the DIY'er in me kicks in and figures that those doors must come out somehow, so I Google/Youtube it. Of course there is a video. Grab a drill and screwdriver bit and in less than 10 mins, I have both the slider, and it's neighbor the "fixed" panel out (those things weigh a TON!).

Since I have to run errands anyway, I slip the fogged up one in the truck and go out to visit two glass/door shops.

First one quotes $350 per door, if I bring them in and let them install the glass. I ask about the glass, they tell me they are made "in Maine", have to be ordered and it takes 1-2 weeks. They carefully measure the door and glass and give me a printed quote.

Second one is in the city, not so great neighborhood, but the website was real professional and they advertised about fixing fogged windows by changing out the glass panel. The guy comes out to the truck measures it, does some numbers on his calculator and says $479 per panel, plus $25 to change out the glass. I ask where the panels come from and he says that they have to be ordered from a place "in Maine". I ask him if there are any cheaper alternatives, like just buying a whole new framed panel, and he says "I don't know, see if you can find a label on it and look it up."


There was a label on the bottom so when I got home I took pick of it with my phone. No name of a manufacturer, but lots of part/model numbers. I Google one, nothing, then I see "5500B", so I Google it, comes back with some hits of 5500 series vinyl patio slider. Keep clicking and hit a link to a "72x80 fixed patio door". At Home Depot. Hit that link, my local HD has one in stock.



And it's $125



Can't find accurate measurements anywhere on the site. But the HD is 8 minutes from my house, so door still in truck, I head out. In the store it is boxed and wrapped in plastic and the guy in windows and doors really doesn't want me to unpackage the only one they have. So I measure best I can and take a chance and buy it. For $125, maybe I can take the glass out and put it in my frame if I need to.

Don't you know the thing slipped right in. 5 mins. In fact it appears to be exactly what I already have in every aspect. AND, they have the sliding one for $135. I could replace all 18 panels in that room for a tad over $2k!


Two screws to lower the slider rollers down and a grunt and out it comes. 2 more screws on the fixed one, and hefty lift and it swings out too. And the HD ones are made by Andersen.



My only challenge now if figuring out how to dispose of the old, foggy ones appropriately.
I love it when life goes right. Great to hear a little research and luck saved you a ton of money!
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:06 PM   #2355
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That is a lot of work to accomplish in two weeks.....and it runs, good job!
Hope there aren't too many leftover parts that go way down there somewhere .

Kinda looks like the mirrored image of a Honda CR-V -(serpentine drive belt should be on the passenger side).
I am aware of one known problem that could lead to this much work - the camshafts of some model year Hondas received a faulty heat treatment leading to excessive wear of the roller/lobe interface especially on the exhaust cam.
At this stage (photo), I usually go ahead and service or replace hard to access components like the water pump and starter etc.., no sense in revisiting in a year or two.
It is a Honda CR-V (towed behind my RV). Two of the exhaust valves got their seats eroded, and the valves got sunken into the head. I ran out of the adjustment range on the rocker arms to compensate, and the valves could no longer close completely. Left in this state, the valves would burn due to the blowby gas in no time.

While on the Alaska RV trip earlier this summer, I already had to open up the valve cover, and remove the rocker arm of one exhaust valve so that it stayed closed permanently. Hobbled around like that for the remaining of the RV trip, with one cylinder running with only 1 of its 2 exhaust valves working. Ran OK, but with some vibrations due to 1 of 4 cylinders not completely aspirated.

It cost me $370 to buy a rebuilt head with valves installed, and swap out the old head. Would not be all that hard on older cars with rear-wheel drive, but all transverse engines are painful to work on, with the intake manifold against the firewall, and the belts against a fender.

PS. It took me 5 days, working about 5 hrs each day. The two weeks were due to having to wait for the rebuilt head getting shipped. I did take the occasion to replace the engine mounts. These sons of bitches are impossible to get to with the engine in place. Took 1 day just for that.
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:14 PM   #2356
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It is a Honda CR-V (towed behind my RV). Two of the exhaust valves got their seats eroded, and the valves got sunken into the head. I ran out of the adjustment range on the rocker arms to compensate, and the valves could no longer close completely. Left in this state, the valves would burn due to the blowby gas in no time.

While on the Alaska RV trip earlier this summer, I already had to open up the valve cover, and remove the rocker arm of one exhaust valve so that it stayed closed permanently. Hobbled around like that for the remaining of the RV trip, with one cylinder running with only 1 of its 2 exhaust valves working. Ran OK, but with some vibrations due to 1 of 4 cylinders not completely aspirated.

It cost me $370 to buy a rebuilt head with valves installed, and swap out the old head. Would not be all that hard on older cars with rear-wheel drive, but all transverse engines are painful to work on, with the intake manifold against the firewall, and the belts against a fender.
Nice effort! I guess you have it all back together and running.
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:28 PM   #2357
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....
PS. It took me 5 days, working about 5 hrs each day. The two weeks were due to having to wait for the rebuilt head getting shipped. I did take the occasion to replace the engine mounts. These sons of bitches are impossible to get to with the engine in place. Took 1 day just for that.
Congrats, but that just does not sound like fun to me. And you know I'm the type to 'invest' way too much time on some DIY project for the 'fun' of it.

But that's something I'd gladly pay a mechanic to do.

-ERD50
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Old 11-13-2018, 01:08 PM   #2358
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As mentioned, I did quite a bit of vehicle repair and engine work when I was younger, mostly to save money. Now, I do it - if it is something that I think I can finish - to stay active, as I am not the kind of guy to go to a gym but do real work as an exercise (in addition to walking and hiking).

It has never been that much about fun, although when I was young I wanted to see the innards of things. Now, when I am older, the curiosity factor has much declined, but the job satisfaction is still there.

PS. When I was in poor health a couple of years back, I did send my cars to service shops for them to fix.
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