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Old 05-17-2015, 07:55 PM   #821
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"A change in aggravations is as good as a vacation" (I heard this somewhere, it stuck)

You know better than that! That seat isn't for human occupation, it's only there to reduce the insurance rates.

Plastic? I detest the plastic clips that are in cars now. They get brittle and break on their own, or when trying to do any service. Finding the exact replacement can be a PITA. How much could it really cost ($$ and weight) to use metal clips, or screws?

I don't enjoy replacing fabric headliners, and have never gotten a result with which I was satisfied. Like wallpapering a bathroom.
LOL. I did find some replacement clips on eBay. Prices ranged from $32 brand new, down to $10 used, for one clip. Free shipping. Anyway, I think I can live with it for now, just won't look at it. Lots of cracks are already there on other plastic parts involved, too. I had much better luck repairing both flip-up headlight motors, which I thought would be a much more challenging job than the headliner !
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Old 05-20-2015, 12:05 PM   #822
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I just replaced the turntable motor in our microwave. This may be an easy task for the regulars in this thread but I'm a klutz with no mechanical skills. The microwave fits a tight space and I didn't see anything close to the same dimensions, so repairing it was a big deal.
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Old 05-20-2015, 12:29 PM   #823
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Replaced the kitchen faucet. Yay me!
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Old 05-20-2015, 12:45 PM   #824
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Since last week....

1. Pulled garbage disposal and removed small screw that found its way into it and jammed it up.

2. Changed oil on the 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe and ordered a Fumoto Valve and 6 OEM oil filters.

3. Service granddaughter's 2010 Ford Focus: oil and filter change, new air filter element, got windows tinted ($135 at a local tint shop). She's good for next college semester now.

4. Stepson's 2005 Mercedes C230 Compressor: New No. 4 cylinder ignition coil, replaced a 4 spark plugs, new air cleaner element, oil and filter change, replaced broken headlight assembly. (car was a mess)

5. Added HID lighting to my 2014 Passat trunk so I can see in it at night. Factory light is useless.
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Old 05-20-2015, 03:45 PM   #825
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The microwave fits a tight space and I didn't see anything close to the same dimensions, so repairing it was a big deal.
Congrats, did you find some guidance (e.g. troubleshooting to determine if the motor itself was the trouble) and the part online? I gotta say, I'm lazy enough that I probably would have just lived without the turntable, but now I'm inspired to try the repair if ours crumps out.
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Old 05-20-2015, 04:03 PM   #826
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Laid a new ceramic tile floor in the upstairs bathroom. I'm using a wet saw with a diamond blade, but still have the darnedest time finishing a cut with out having the tile break at that last 1/16" or so.

Anyway it is done and grout covers many small sins.
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Old 05-20-2015, 04:12 PM   #827
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Laid a new ceramic tile floor in the upstairs bathroom. I'm using a wet saw with a diamond blade, but still have the darnedest time finishing a cut with out having the tile break at that last 1/16" or so.

Anyway it is done and grout covers many small sins.
I think what I did when I had that problem (it's been a while), is to make a short cut on the last part by running it from behind the saw and pulling it back. Those diamond saws don't really grab like a toothed saw, so this didn't feel too dangerous, but you do need to take a bit of extra care.

As you push forward with the normal cut, it meets the cut you already made and snaps cleanly there. Maybe a little running of the stone over it to clean it up.

Another option might be to lower the blade, and make a pass just barely through the top side. Then flip it over to complete the cut. I'd bet it will follow the line you made on the first cut.

-ERD50
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Old 05-20-2015, 05:00 PM   #828
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Had a problem with my gas water heater, the pilot light wouldn't stay lit, so no hot water. Could have replaced the thermocouple for about $10 which I'm pretty sure would have fixed the problem. The water heater was 18 years old so decided it was a good time to replace it. There sure was a lot of gunk at the bottom of the old tank when I tipped it over to drain the last water out of it. The swap out went smooth, just had to trim the vent pipe because the new water heater was a couple inches taller than the old one. Saved over $500 based on the estimate the big box store gave me to do the install, it took maybe 2-3 hours to swap it out.
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Old 05-20-2015, 10:03 PM   #829
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Had a problem with my gas water heater, the pilot light wouldn't stay lit, so no hot water. Could have replaced the thermocouple for about $10 which I'm pretty sure would have fixed the problem. The water heater was 18 years old so decided it was a good time to replace it. There sure was a lot of gunk at the bottom of the old tank when I tipped it over to drain the last water out of it. The swap out went smooth, just had to trim the vent pipe because the new water heater was a couple inches taller than the old one. Saved over $500 based on the estimate the big box store gave me to do the install, it took maybe 2-3 hours to swap it out.
Was this your first time ?
Just the other day I was thinking this will be the next thing to go on me, and I wondered could I do it ?
Did you look up youtube videos or anything like that to understand the steps ?
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Old 05-20-2015, 10:54 PM   #830
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I have a 2005 BMW 545i. It has had zero problems till this year. I had to replace gaskets and a pump--$5k. Now I have to replace the coils--$1300. Then I also did the front and rear brakes $1.5k.

I love this car and it still looks great but I'm starting to have second thoughts about holding on to it.
There's nothing that makes an auto technician happier than seeing a BMW or Mercedes coming through the front door. They universally rip the heads off their customers because they think "they can afford it."

My family owns a luxury car dealership, and all Bimmers and Mercs are wholesaled out because there's something wrong with every trade in.
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Old 05-20-2015, 10:57 PM   #831
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Laid a new ceramic tile floor in the upstairs bathroom. I'm using a wet saw with a diamond blade, but still have the darnedest time finishing a cut with out having the tile break at that last 1/16" or so.
I don't even use my tile saw any longer. I'm using a Sharpie to make a line, and cutting porcelain tiles with a 4 1/2" grinder with a diamond blade. It's just so much quicker and efficient than doing it the "old way."
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:27 AM   #832
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Was this your first time ?
Just the other day I was thinking this will be the next thing to go on me, and I wondered could I do it ?
Did you look up youtube videos or anything like that to understand the steps ?
It's fairly straight forward if you have some basic DIY skills. The steps to perform the replacement were actually listed on the outside of the box the new heater came in, I also downloaded the manufacturers instruction manual beforehand. I had flexible water hoses going to the hot/cold connections on the tank which makes things easier. I did have copper pipe going to the pressure relief valve which required a propane torch to disconnect since I wanted to reuse the pipe. The closer the dimensions the new and old water heater are the easier the job will be, and an empty tank weighs +125lbs so a helper might be needed. If you have gas you definitely want to thoroughly check all connections for leaks, it's a good idea to get a plumber in to check everything afterwards. Some cities do require a permit when replacing a water heater.
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:54 AM   #833
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I don't even use my tile saw any longer. I'm using a Sharpie to make a line, and cutting porcelain tiles with a 4 1/2" grinder with a diamond blade. It's just so much quicker and efficient than doing it the "old way."
Good suggestion. Might be a little more dust, but certainly less equipment required.
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Old 05-21-2015, 07:12 AM   #834
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Congrats, did you find some guidance (e.g. troubleshooting to determine if the motor itself was the trouble) and the part online? I gotta say, I'm lazy enough that I probably would have just lived without the turntable, but now I'm inspired to try the repair if ours crumps out.
The turntable began sticking, then tuned in one direction only, then stopped completely. Looking online, there is nothing other than motor and gear and it wasn't the gear. I found a parts store online that had a good customer feedback section where how to install was discussed. It was simple enough so that even I could do it, so I ordered from them at a slightly higher price because of that help.

I considered keeping it even without a working turntable but just the thought of being able to repair something was enough motivation for me. Not many opportunities for us mechanically challenged.
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Old 05-21-2015, 07:17 AM   #835
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Good suggestion. Might be a little more dust, but certainly less equipment required.
I used an el-cheapo wet tile saw when I did my floors and bathroom and found what worked best for me was to mark the cut line with masking tape (good side) and push the tile through the blade slowly freehand. Found I got a lot less chip out that way. If I had to do it over again I would have bought a quality high end used tile saw then resell it afterwards, they seem to retain their value pretty good.
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Old 06-02-2015, 02:57 PM   #836
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My propane grill gave less than satisfactory results (imo) on burgers last Sunday - could not get a nice crisp on the outside.

Inspection of the burners showed that the right venturi tube/burner bracket had finally rusted out and it was not getting a full feed of gas from the main jet because of a bad seal.

I figured now would be a good time to give the insides of all of the venturi tubes a brushing out.

Went to Home Depot but they didn't have a grill venturi brush - instead we found a vent cleaning brush that worked. Gave all 3 burners a reaming out with the brush and a bunch of black soot piled up.

Gave all the venturi holes a poking with a nylon bristle.

Then used some metal automotive tape to tape back the broken venturi tube against the inside base.

Fired up the grill and now it gets up to 550F - nice and hot.

This weekend I'm thinking of nice steaks with some good grill marks.

Total cost $6.38 for the vent cleaning brush and about $1 worth of automotive metal tape.

A lot cheaper than throwing in the towel and getting a new grill!
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Old 06-02-2015, 04:34 PM   #837
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Originally Posted by BBQ-Nut View Post
My propane grill gave less than satisfactory results (imo) on burgers last Sunday - could not get a nice crisp on the outside.

Inspection of the burners showed that the right venturi tube/burner bracket had finally rusted out and it was not getting a full feed of gas from the main jet because of a bad seal.

I figured now would be a good time to give the insides of all of the venturi tubes a brushing out.

Went to Home Depot but they didn't have a grill venturi brush - instead we found a vent cleaning brush that worked. Gave all 3 burners a reaming out with the brush and a bunch of black soot piled up.

Gave all the venturi holes a poking with a nylon bristle.

Then used some metal automotive tape to tape back the broken venturi tube against the inside base.

Fired up the grill and now it gets up to 550F - nice and hot.

This weekend I'm thinking of nice steaks with some good grill marks.

Total cost $6.38 for the vent cleaning brush and about $1 worth of automotive metal tape.

A lot cheaper than throwing in the towel and getting a new grill!
Nice job, we have been keeping an outdoor grill going for 20 years. It's on natural gas. I bought a few burners, a new sheet metal base and formed posts (the grill was built into our wooden deck). Also a cooking grate or four. As long as you can get the parts, the things will go forever.
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Old 06-02-2015, 04:51 PM   #838
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Nice job, we have been keeping an outdoor grill going for 20 years. It's on natural gas. I bought a few burners, a new sheet metal base and formed posts (the grill was built into our wooden deck). Also a cooking grate or four. As long as you can get the parts, the things will go forever.
I need to research the automotive metal tape. The outside is nice, but the inside is pretty close to gone...literally. By "gone" I mean rusted to the point of having holes in the "base casting", except its not a casting, it's just stamped sheet metal. The tents that go over the burners disintegrated a long time ago, and I replaced them with some heavy gauge stainless (cut at a local fab shop for cheaper than buying the stock thin steel tents from charbroil). But my custom tents are all thats left that isn't going into a pile of rust dust. That, and the beautiful outside of the grill...stainless. They should have put the stainless inside!
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Old 06-02-2015, 05:14 PM   #839
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I need to research the automotive metal tape. The outside is nice, but the inside is pretty close to gone...literally. By "gone" I mean rusted to the point of having holes in the "base casting", except its not a casting, it's just stamped sheet metal. The tents that go over the burners disintegrated a long time ago, and I replaced them with some heavy gauge stainless (cut at a local fab shop for cheaper than buying the stock thin steel tents from charbroil). But my custom tents are all thats left that isn't going into a pile of rust dust. That, and the beautiful outside of the grill...stainless. They should have put the stainless inside!
The metal tape is like a thick foil metal, sticky, but you will need a very clean surface for the adhesive to work. If the surface has soot, grease built up - it won't stick.

And it won't offer much insulation/heat retention. Good luck!
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Old 06-02-2015, 05:27 PM   #840
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Nice job, we have been keeping an outdoor grill going for 20 years. It's on natural gas. I bought a few burners, a new sheet metal base and formed posts (the grill was built into our wooden deck). Also a cooking grate or four. As long as you can get the parts, the things will go forever.

The problem with me is the cost of the grates.... I have an infrared grill and to replace my 4 grates would cost me over $200... I can buy a brand new grill (but smaller) for just a bit more money.... also, it is even hard to find grates for my size grill...
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