Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

[MRG]

As I reported a couple of days ago in "What did you do today?" the shifter in my truck quit working. Yesterday I crawled around under the truck and under the dash. Everything under the truck look fine. From research on the web, this is often caused by a couple for bolts coming loose. I checked those bolts and they were tight, but way too much play going from the bolts up to the shift lever. This was not good. If that was the problem, it would mean dropping the steering column. The last time I messed with a steering column it was not pretty. I couldn't get the truck in park to start it, so I put the 4WD transfer case in neutral and jumped the starter solenoid to get it started then jammed it in gear and drove it in to the local mechanic. Just as I suspected, he is looking for a steering column in the wrecking yards. This is not going to be cheap, but it will get fixed. More later.

I worked with a real cobbler way back. His F-100 was an automatic, eventually he had problems with the linkage.

He fixed it. Welded a stick shift to the existing linkage as it came through the floor board. You couldn't visually tell what gear you had but it worked.

Good luck.

 

[samclem]

I worked with a real cobbler way back. His F-100 was an automatic, eventually he had problems with the linkage.

He fixed it. Welded a stick shift to the existing linkage as it came through the floor board. You couldn't visually tell what gear you had but it worked.

Good luck.

And, pretty unlikely anybody would be able to drive off with his truck.

 

[street]

Hermit >>> it never is cheap! Lol Glad you got it running and to the shop.

 

[sengsational]

Now my "history of the electric bass" knowledge is much larger than it was!

In the case of resistors precision refers to the percent deviation from claimed values. Plus there is the temperature caused deviati0n.

I guess I was skating on thin ice interpreting the capital "p". Those ceramic caps are pretty wildly in the +/-20% category (M). I could have used a more modern, and higher tolerance one, but that would have been "less original", and everything else on the guitar is original. Kinda dumb because if it's not the original cap, it's not the original cap. But after 30 years in the attic, the original cap probably wasn't as good as the one I replaced it with (the dielectric tends to break down over time).

 

[John Galt III]

Why can't you hook the dvd player to the tv ?

At Walmart a blue-ray player costs about $50 (and does dvd too).

Can't go straight to TV because the dvd player only has the round old-fashioned connectors. one red, one yellow, one white. One for video, 2 for audio. And the TV only has a cable (coaxial?) input. I have to route the old fashioned wires from my dvd to my old vcr, which accepts them, then route the cable output from the vcr to the TV.

But...... just as I was all set to go buy a $24 Sanyo DVD player at Walmart, I tried one last time with the existing setup, changed to different channel on the TV, unplugged everything, plugged it back in, pushed some appropriate button, or something, and now it is working again!!!! I really don't know what I did to fix it. Been working great for a few hours. Hoping for the best.

 

[ERD50]

Can't go straight to TV because the dvd player only has the round old-fashioned connectors. one red, one yellow, one white. One for video, 2 for audio. And the TV only has a cable (coaxial?) input. I have to route the old fashioned wires from my dvd to my old vcr, which accepts them, then route the cable output from the vcr to the TV.

But...... just as I was all set to go buy a $24 Sanyo DVD player at Walmart, I tried one last time with the existing setup, changed to different channel on the TV, unplugged everything, plugged it back in, pushed some appropriate button, or something, and now it is working again!!!! I really don't know what I did to fix it. Been working great for a few hours. Hoping for the best.

Wow, that's 'old school'! Using a VCR as a "Composite Video" (that's what one video signal with stereo audio is called) to modulated RF (the co-axial cable connection) adapter - there are much better options available today (and low cost as well).

I have to think way back, but I recall the VCR could be set to 'broadcast' on CH 3 or CH 4. So you would need to have your TV set to the matching channel.

But new TVs and new DVD players are not expensive, and they will have HDMI in/out. The picture quality difference will be almost like night and day. And while I'm an audio buff, I don't really care much about the finer details of video quality. But the difference between the old TVs with "SD" format with a DVD run through a composite to RF-Modulated output for the source and a modern LCD TV and a DVD with HDMI in/out will be stunning - even to someone like me who really doesn't care much.

If it was a big $ investment, I could see some resistance, but all this stuff is cheap today. It's just not worth trying to stretch the life of this old tech, unless you are really down to your last discretionary dollar.

-ERD50

 

[ERD50]

Now my "history of the electric bass" knowledge is much larger than it was! ....

I wasn't aware of that either, until your "P"-recision comment got me doing some searching for a reference. Just can't trust my old memory, but I do have a picture in my head of the bass/rhythm-guitar player in our high school garage band proudly showing off his new Fender Precision Bass that he got for his birthday. Would have been ~ 1969-70.

I need to keep researching the "invention" (likely the "development" of) the electric guitar. So many think that Les Paul invented the electric guitar, but then I learned that others say his contribution was the "solid-body" electric guitar ("the log"). Then I find references to solid bodies prior to that. I get lost along the way.

But Les Paul contributed to modern music not only with technology ( multi-track recording, and many other techniques), but with his musicality as well. He was quite the musician, really a great talent.

-ERD50

 

[John Galt III]

Wow, that's 'old school'!
If it was a big $ investment, I could see some resistance, but all this stuff is cheap today. It's just not worth trying to stretch the life of this old tech, unless you are really down to your last discretionary dollar.

-ERD50

ERD, I know I know! Old school it is! I don't like to throw stuff out that still works, and it gives me something to do, with all my free time, figuring out how to keep using the old stuff as technology leaps ahead. And the sound and picture are very good, amazingly, even compared with the new TV screens they have on at the department stores.

 

[sengsational]

Anyone know much about four stroke engines?

I have a plan for my 9 year old mower that's getting harder and harder to start.

The theory I have is that it's not got enough compression. It takes 20 or 30 pulls to get it going. The first 10 or 15, nothing. Then it fires, a "put-put" or two. Another 10 pulls it might get going, each time adding one "put". When it gets up to about 8 or 10 "puts", it will start running.

Once it's warm, it runs fine. The next day, though, it's the same thing over again. Manually adding fuel doesn't seem to get it going any faster (i.e. squirting starter fluid in the carburetor throat).

So my plan, next time I mow, is to try the first 10 pulls (I don't expect it to fire). Then remove the plug, squirt oil in there, and replace the plug. If it's a compression problem, rather than taking another 20 pulls before it runs, I expect it to leap into action on the first or second pull after the oil. This, rather than adding one "put" at a time until I get up to about 8 "puts", at which point it runs. The theory is that the extra oil will allow for the (theoretically) worn rings to make a better seal against the cylinder wall.

Harbor Freight and various places online has a compression tester, but I didn't know if I should get it because apparently these engines have some kind of compression limiter? And besides, the "dry" vs "wet" test I'm proposing is cheaper.

 

[homestead]

Could be your rings are stuck killing your compression. Mine had that problem and when it was running
it was smoking badly and burning oil. I bought some Marvel Mystery oil and that fixed it.

 

[ERD50]

After squirting the oil in, pull the starter to distribute the oil while you have the plug out, maybe do that in a few steps.

But as homestead says, if the rings are stuck, rather than worn, the oil might not be enough to make a big difference?

Are you certain you have a strong spark?

-ERD50

 

[samclem]

If the oil can get to the rings (I.e. the piston goes up rather than sideways) and any compression problem is caused by the rings ( not a valve), then this should work. The price is right for the test.

 

[Just_Steve]

Convert that stubborn pull start to a drill start, hundreds of youtube video how too's out there.

 

[Happyrick]

Lots of stuff I would try if you can't test the compression, I had similar problems and it was the ignition coil. Plenty of on line troubleshooting guides. Best of luck.

 

[SteveNU]

Have you hit a lot of rocks or sticks? I've seen the shear key get partially sheared causing the timing to be off just enough to make it really hard to start until it finally just won't run until you replace the key.

 

[travelover]

Oil in the cylinder will temporarily seal the rings but it won't help for a bad valve or a blown head gasket. I'd pull the head and take a look.

 

[sengsational]

Thanks for the all ideas. The whole "pull the head" thing is maybe about more "fun" than I wanna have, lol! On the other hand, we can't have this be over all too quick, though. I mean, I could easily just drop by Lowe's and pick me up another mower, but how much fun would THAT be? I'll report back on the oil squirting. I may just tear this baby down, but not quite yet.

 

[eroscott]

Upper oven is not keeping temperature. Replaced sensor ($25) but that wasn't it. More research and visit to local appliance fix it store confirmed it must be the control board. That is a more expensive fix AND it is no longer made for my year 2000 oven.

The local appliance fix it store told me they have had people use FixYourBoard | Control Board Repair before so I sent my board to them 4 days ago. It was listed on their site as one they now about and fix. It'll cost me about $150+$12+12 send/return shipping. Should be back in one week.

 

[sengsational]

When my oven controller went out. I also thought it was the sensor. I was quite distraught because it's an in-cabinet model, and so I'd either need to find one that fit exactly, or get out the sawzall and make a huge mess. That, or pay more for the controller than the whole oven was worth. I had no idea about 'fix your board'.

But my good news: I found a similar model oven on Craigs list! I use all of our knobs, burners, surface, oven door, etc, since they were in better condition, but used the body and other "guts" of the Craig's list oven. Still cookin', and that was like 10 years ago!

 

[Just_Steve]

Upper oven is not keeping temperature. Replaced sensor ($25) but that wasn't it. More research and visit to local appliance fix it store confirmed it must be the control board. That is a more expensive fix AND it is no longer made for my year 2000 oven.

The local appliance fix it store told me they have had people use FixYourBoard | Control Board Repair before so I sent my board to them 4 days ago. It was listed on their site as one they now about and fix. It'll cost me about $150+$12+12 send/return shipping. Should be back in one week.

I used a similar service to fix my speedometer cluster for my Trailblazer about 5 years ago, still working good.

 

[meierlde]

Thanks for the all ideas. The whole "pull the head" thing is maybe about more "fun" than I wanna have, lol! On the other hand, we can't have this be over all too quick, though. I mean, I could easily just drop by Lowe's and pick me up another mower, but how much fun would THAT be? I'll report back on the oil squirting. I may just tear this baby down, but not quite yet.

Have you changed the spark plug recently. that could go bad also.

 

[Sunset]

I have to wonder if you have eliminated the fuel delivery as an issue.
Perhaps the carb needs a rebuild, it can be as simple as replacing the rubber diaphragm

 

[travelover]

Have you changed the spark plug recently. that could go bad also.

Good point. I had a Harbor Freight pump that would only pop but not start and a new plug fixed it. Rotten original Chinese spark plugs!

 

[sengsational]

The report back on squirting oil in the cylinder: didn't do much, if anything. That's kind of good news because it it made a difference, that would mean the engine would need to be torn-down.

The plug doesn't look bad to the eye, but I just ordered a new plug. I'll try replacing the plug. That's easy enough. Should be here by the next time I need to use the mower.

 

[sengsational]

I have to wonder if you have eliminated the fuel delivery as an issue.
Perhaps the carb needs a rebuild, it can be as simple as replacing the rubber diaphragm

I just looked and I can get a whole new carburetor, delivered, for $10!