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Old 09-27-2016, 04:33 PM   #1621
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I scored a bunch of stainless nuts and bolts for cheap and I was pleased to replace a rusty bolt and nut on my camper's propane bracket. I ran the new stainless bolt home with an electric impact gun, but realized that I had it misaligned. The gun would not back it off so I got a big ratchet and reefed on it. The bolt twisted in two. So, I got my first lesson in stainless steel galling.
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Old 09-27-2016, 04:54 PM   #1622
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Cool, never heard of that before.
I don't own an impact wrench so I probably never would run into it.
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Old 09-27-2016, 05:07 PM   #1623
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First lesson in impact wrench use:

Never start bolts/nuts with an impact wrench.
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:57 PM   #1624
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First lesson in impact wrench use:

Never start bolts/nuts with an impact wrench.
I did not start it with an impact gun (I put myself through college working as a mechanic, so this is a no-brainer). I started the nut well onto the bolt, but ran it home with the impact gun. The combination of the speed, torque and the lack of lubrication was what cold welded the nut on.
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:14 PM   #1625
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... So, I got my first lesson in stainless steel galling.
I also was not familiar with all this detail. I didn't know that much heat built up on a bolt. I know a wood screw or nail can get hot, but that's a lot of friction as the screw forces its way through all those wood fibers, along the entire length.
I always thought the anti-seize stuff was for getting it apart later - not preventing jamming up on installation.


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Old 09-27-2016, 08:35 PM   #1626
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I scored a bunch of stainless nuts and bolts for cheap and I was pleased to replace a rusty bolt and nut on my camper's propane bracket. I ran the new stainless bolt home with an electric impact gun, but realized that I had it misaligned. The gun would not back it off so I got a big ratchet and reefed on it. The bolt twisted in two. So, I got my first lesson in stainless steel galling.
My bold. Thought you started it with the impact wrench and it was misaligned. I guess you started it by hand and had it misaligned and then ran it home, correct?

On another note, why use an impact wrench on what I perceive is a fairly small not and bolt?
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:43 PM   #1627
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My bold. Thought you started it with the impact wrench and it was misaligned. I guess you started it by hand and had it misaligned and then ran it home, correct?



On another note, why use an impact wrench on what I perceive is a fairly small not and bolt?

No. It was never misaligned. The issue was that stainless steel fasteners will gall and cold weld themselves in a situation where a regular steel fastener would not. I used a small cordless impact gun because it was in an awkward spot to use a ratchet and there were a lot of threads to be taken up as it tightened.


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Old 09-27-2016, 10:12 PM   #1628
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I scored a bunch of stainless nuts and bolts for cheap
I think that may be the problem.
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:15 PM   #1629
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I think that may be the problem.

I don't follow you. The bolts were first quality, I just bought them from a recycling yard where they were scrapped along with a bunch of precision test fixtures. The issue is that stainless steel fasteners cannot be tightened in the same manner as conventional steel fasteners. Did you read the link in my original post?


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Old 09-28-2016, 09:33 PM   #1630
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I replaced the broken door latch on our Maytag dishwasher. Apparently, this is a common weak part of several Maytag and Whirlpool models.

Youtube videos showed how to replace the assembly and I bought the part for $21 through Amazon.com.
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:58 PM   #1631
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I know that SS is not as hard as carbon steel, but I've never had a problem with "cold welding" either. I have sheared off rusted on nuts from muffler clamps which are pretty cheap carbon steel.

I was all happy about telling pops how I got them clamps off fast by just breaking the bolts and he gave me a ton of crap about how I was supposed to use penetrating oil and heat them a little with the torch so I wouldn't have to pay a dollar for new ones.
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Old 10-01-2016, 05:39 AM   #1632
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Plumbing time. Opened door to basement and wondered why it was so warm and humid. Yep, leaking water heater. Have isolated it , I think, to the temp and pressure relief valve THREADS where they screw into the water heater. The TPR valve is right on top, in the middle of the wh. Will have to buy a tool to cut off the copper drain tube which comes out of the TPR valve. The plan is to remove TPR valve, clean it up and the hole in the wh, add some teflon tape, and reinsert into wh. Why it started leaking at the threads, who knows. Too many years of hot water under pressure, maybe. It looks like the threads have some white sealant substance on them, which may have just dissolved over the years.
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Old 10-01-2016, 06:29 AM   #1633
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Plumbing time. Opened door to basement and wondered why it was so warm and humid. Yep, leaking water heater. Have isolated it , I think, to the temp and pressure relief valve THREADS where they screw into the water heater. The TPR valve is right on top, in the middle of the wh. Will have to buy a tool to cut off the copper drain tube which comes out of the TPR valve. The plan is to remove TPR valve, clean it up and the hole in the wh, add some teflon tape, and reinsert into wh. Why it started leaking at the threads, who knows. Too many years of hot water under pressure, maybe. It looks like the threads have some white sealant substance on them, which may have just dissolved over the years.
is it an electric heater? could it be electrolysis?
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Old 10-01-2016, 06:32 AM   #1634
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I've been fixing up the snow blower and the lawn mower. They are getting up in years but both seem to have lots of life left in them. The deck on the lawnmower was cracked and needed welding. That and a can of paint cost me $25. The snow blower needed a drive cable an oil change and a minor tune up.
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Old 10-01-2016, 06:54 AM   #1635
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is it an electric heater? could it be electrolysis?
Yes, 50 gallon Rheem electric. pretty old.
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Old 10-01-2016, 08:08 AM   #1636
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Yes, 50 gallon Rheem electric. pretty old.
Electrolysis or just plain corrosion of the threads. You are lucky to get 10 years out of a modern hot water heater these days.
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Old 10-01-2016, 09:15 AM   #1637
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Yes, 50 gallon Rheem electric. pretty old.
If you have a floor drain nearby, you can put the heater in a pan with a drain tube which will direct any leak to the floor drain instead of flooding your basement. I have a gas heater, which requires an aluminum pan instead of plastic and the pan corroded through where the legs sit on the concrete. So, go plastic if you can, when you replace it.
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Old 10-01-2016, 09:46 AM   #1638
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Plumbing time. ......The TPR valve is right on top, in the middle of the wh. Will have to buy a tool to cut off the copper drain tube which comes out of the TPR valve. The plan is to remove TPR valve, clean it up and the hole in the wh, add some teflon tape, and reinsert into wh. Why it started leaking at the threads, who knows. Too many years of hot water under pressure, maybe. It looks like the threads have some white sealant substance on them, which may have just dissolved over the years.
My old and new water heater TPR valve have the discharge pipe screw into the TPR valve, mine was on the side of the water heater near the top.
Not actually on the top.
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Old 10-01-2016, 09:57 AM   #1639
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Got a guy coming here in about an hour to give us an estimate. We had a Nor'easter a few days ago, and the rain was coming in horizontally. We noticed water dripping inside around a window frame. We had a similar problem when we built the house 8 years ago, and after the builder and Anderson Windows went three or four rounds into the "it's the other guy's fault" game, we finally took the drywall out around our two story room's upper window and DW stood outside with a garden hose and proved it was the install. She sprayed the window and we watched from the inside as the water flowed in and down the studs to drip out around the lower window frames. Anyway, the builder had somebody take off the siding and re-flash/seal the Tyvek. But I'm suspecting it's the same problem, and that maybe they did a half-assed job that only shows up when the weather is extreme. And we do get some extreme weather out here. The builder is dead now, but hopefully this guy (or one of the others we'll get quotes from) can fix it right.
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:34 AM   #1640
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We had a blowing rain leak when I moved into this house, 20 years ago. I didn't do anything at the time but monitor the situation. Never happened again! I suppose it could be stealthfully rotting my house, but many close inspections didn't turn up anything. Not the right approach, especially for a DIY guy like me.
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